Question about 2000 Ducati 996 Bi~ - Monoposto - SPS

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2000 ducati 996

My 00 996 not starting. Recently i took it out for a ride after a long time parked in my garage. After about 2-3 miles ride it started to spit and backfired. I immediately turned around. On my way back i had to rev so high at the lights just to keep the bike from stalling but i still backfiring. I didn't start it again until i install a new battery and it still not starting, though one time it just started and quit. I've already check for gas,fuses it's good but before i go any further can someone out there tell me what wrong with my bike. Thanks

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  • Anonymous Jan 31, 2009

    2002 883sporster-misfiring and electric failure[1-2seconds],HELP.I NEED TO RUN IT 50-175 MILES DAILY.No car.

  • dirtnapq Feb 03, 2009

    i checked, the timing on exhaust cam of horizontal cylinder is way off. Plus belts tension is very loose. My 996 has appr. 8000 miles and never had belt tension adjusted. I've already went through the service manual and find that it's so costly to do it myself because i will need all those special tools. But i've heard these people on saying that Real Time Analyzer shareware can be download to your computer and plug-in a microphone to set the belts tension.Ok i feel so stupid but how exactly do you support to do that with software and microphone. Help.



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Check the cambelts on your bike, make sure they havent jumped a tooth on the timing.


Posted on Jan 23, 2009


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Two problems-dont know cause or if related or not. #1 engine backfires,stalls spits hesitate like not getting fuel

This is definitely a carburetor issue... when your rider needs more fuel and air to suffice the engine, it's not getting it. How old is the unit? When is the last time it's had the carburetor removed to he serviced...

Start there....

Nov 01, 2015 | Garden

1 Answer

Was riding the bike parked it went to ride next day.

Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2 and/or BAS).
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue and valuable free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi, Martin the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:

1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.

2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.

3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.

4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.

5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.

6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.

7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.

8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.

9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.

10. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.

11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.

12. Fuel tank empty.

13. Gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.

14. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.

15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.

16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.

For more information about your issue and valuable free downloads that you need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.

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New spark plugs turn black after going twenty miles

Make sure the air filter is clean (& not over oiled if sponge type)
Make sure that the pilot screws on #1 & #3 are 2 turns out and #2 is 2.25 turns out
Try turning 1/8 of a turn at a time
Also change to a softer plug - NGK DPR7EA-9 or equivalent as these stay hotter to burn more carbon off

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Have battery load tested, check all connections on starter, on battery, and on the engine where the ground cable hooks up.

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ide start by inspecting / prob replacing the sparkplugs,but also check the fuel pump wire plug under the tank,replace fuel filter inside tank, check earth wirers are clean and check the stator wire plug havent started to burn and melt the plug just cut it off and solder with heat shrink then will have good charge, hope this gives some ideas where 2 start

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Reocurring need to charge battery to srart, though dash lights up

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and is even there when just the ignition is on. 1. Battery tested at 12.7 when off. 2. 12.2 or so when first started then 13.5 to 14.3 when reved up to 2K to 8k+. 3. Yellow stator to R/R wires mint with no crimps or burn marks and any other imperfections. 4. Headlight gets brighter when it revs up to 2K or so as it should. 5. Bike starts ides revs rides 100% fine (took it out today for a while with no problems. Granted I didn't go to far from home as I didn't want to get stranded. 6. Disconnected everything at the battery, check all fuses, couldn't find any damaged wires, etc... reconnected, blue light still on, even when just the ignition is in on mode with the motor not on. Curve ball... I took off the license plate mount including the rear blinkers last week by just disconnecting the OEM connectors under the seat (turning it into a track only machine), no shorts or anything there, can this trigger the light to come on? So any ideas? Any other test points I should look into? I really want to get this sorted before hitting the track!,Either you didn't get the notches set correctly, or the 'rod' inside the cable isn't seated right. Or the rod broke like mine just did, and will need replacement.,,,

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