Question about 2005 Yamaha Xv 250 Virago S
Not bearings or disc
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
Front tire Rubbing Noise
OEM parts for Yamaha
Posted on Jul 11, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: noise in front end, sounds
You say the rear wheel axles and bearings have been replaced, you mention nothing of the front wheels, you have the symptoms of a front wheel bearing being worn out, remove them and check for pitting in the bearing rollers or the bearing races, I am sure you will find a problem. Hope this helps solve your issue with the bearing noise.
Posted on Jul 28, 2008
hi there, there are two ways to check your bearings, 1, is to jack up the vehicle so the wheel is free of the ground and to check for any play or roughness in the bearing by spinning the wheel, if the bearing is worn then you will hear a droning noise, 2 is to drive along a quiet road, at a speed where you can hear the noise, gently turn the steering from left to right so the vehile load is being shifted from one side to the other, if you have a wheel bearing fault the noise's pitch will alter,hope this helps
Posted on Oct 24, 2008
SOURCE: I have a 2006 chevy
On my cobalt (same platform) there is a known bad engine mount that clunks (like you have bad shocks) when you go over bumps.
If you look under the car from the front, you can see its a circle, (supposed to be ) filled with a rubber/composite bushing. They crack and this causes the banging.
It is supposed to look like this...
However, the rubber breaks off and your engine is flopping around.
This part needs a press to press out the old piece, so a mechanic would be the best repairman for the job.
The scraping noise is a different problem. I would suggest CV joints, but being a 2006, they shouldnt be bad unless you tow, or accelerate heavily.
I would lean toward a bad wheel bearing with the symptoms you are describing - also a job that requires a press.
You're in for quite a bill!
Figure $250 each wheel bearing and another 100 or so to fix the mount.
Dealership would be 2x that.
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
I am assuming this is an all wheel drive. That being the case you probably have an axle CV joint going out. If you hear noise when making a sharp left or right turn and accelerating that would more than likely be the problem. And, yes this is a serviceable part. Easy to replace if you have the proper tools to accomplish the task. Good luck.
Posted on Feb 18, 2009
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Before raising the rear of your Honda, remove the dust cup from the center of the brake drums using a hammer and chisel. This will give you access to the spindle nut, which you can loosen using an axle nut socket. Then you can raise and remove the wheel/tire assembly ,or assemblies if you are replacing the bearings on both wheels.
If your Honda model is equipped with rear disc brakes, remove the brake disc retaining screws, the brake hose bracket from the steering knuckle and caliper bracket mounting bolts. Hang the caliper to the coil spring using wire. Do not let the caliper hang free or the brake hose may be damaged.
At this point, you will be able to remove the brake disc by hand. However, rust may have a firm grip on the disc. If this is the case, use a couple of 8-by-1.25 mm bolts and screw them evenly into the brake disc threaded holes. This will push the disc off the hub. Now you can finish removing the spindle nut and hub/wheel bearing assembly and install the new hub/wheel bearing assembly using a new spindle nut
If your Honda Civic comes equipped with rear brake drums, remove the center grease cup and loosen the axle spindle nut using an axle nut socket. After raising and removing the wheel/tire assembly, finish removing the axle nut and washer.
You might be able to remove the outer wheel bearing from the spindle using a screwdriver. If not, wiggle the brake drum as you pull on it to let the bearing fall off the spindle. However, the brake drum might be caught in place by the brake shoes. In this case, you can retract the brake shoes through the hole in the back of the backing plate.
Remove the rubber plug from the back of the backing plate. Then rotate the star wheel on the adjusting screw using a brake adjusting tool as you push the lever off the start wheel with a screwdriver. With the brake shoes off the brake drum, pull the brake drum off the wheel assembly. Then clean the brake assembly with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free towel.
Now you can set the brake drum on a workbench or hard surface and remove the grease seal and inner wheel bearing. The inner and outer wheel-bearing races can be removed using a drift punch and hammer. Pack the new wheel bearings with high-temperature wheel-bearing grease using a wheel-bearing packer and use a new grease seal during installation. Also, before reinstalling the brake drum, apply a thick coat of wheel-bearing grease to the cavity inside the hub, but do not fill it completely.
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