Question about Motorcycles
Hi, James you have a bad battery or faulty charging system, now it is time to put on your Battery Priest Robe and prepare yourself for the Ceremonial "LOAD TEST" but before you begin, maintenance type lead acid batteries must be topped off with distilled Holy Water and all batteries must offer their terminals to the battery charging altar to receive the Sacred Infusion of Holy Ions until they have reached a 100% full charge of 12.5 volts or better. No matter how new the battery is, do not be lured into the false sense of "it's OK it has 12.5 volts" and not doing the test below, it could have little or zero "AMPERAGE" causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, AGM maintenance free batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid types.
Below is a quick and easy test to see if your battery is in good condition or needs Last Rites and must be replaced.
1. Make sure the bike is in "NEUTRAL"
2. Disconnect the spark plug cables.
3. Adjust voltmeter to DC volts 20-volt range
4. Place the voltmeter leads to the battery terminals.
5. Turn the run/off switch to run.
6. Turn the ignition switch on and press the starter button.
7. Watch the voltmeter as your engine turns over for 10 seconds.
8. If the voltage drops below 9.6 volts, the battery is faulty and must be replaced I "HIGHLY" recommend a maintenance free AGM battery they typically have more amperage for cranking.
9. Reconnect the spark plug cables if your battery is good and the bike starts ok, place the voltmeter leads on the battery and rev the engine to a steady 2500 RPM the voltmeter should read 14.5 volts DC anything in the 13's or less you have a charging issue that needs to be diagnosed and repaired.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to Tell if Your Battery is Bad in 3 Easy Steps
Test Your Battery in 10 Seconds Reliable Load Test with Only Multimeter
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Posted on Jun 26, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Rectifier Problem
If the battery is charged, its charged..... redpoint5 is right, check the battery when hot... If the battery was not charging i would then look into the charging system, rectifier, etc.... Is it an air cooled engine? Sometimes engines can get a little warped when hot... My grandfather had Corvair vans as taxis that somehow always got overheated, after that they would never start hot. So, he had to leave them running all day.... If your battery is OK you may want to have a look at your starter.... Or, bypass the selenoid with a jumper cable and see if the starter kicks over fine when jumped directly...... That would indicate a bad or worn selenoid.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
Can be "nasty problem, for it can mean DEATH, if as you attempt traffic manouvre & it blows !-(As safety precaution , & this TIP would be useful to most all Bikers>Call to friendly POLARIS ATV Dealer & ask for Automatic Re Settable 20 AMP PROTECTOR ( tHIS FITS THE 500 sPORTSMAN A T V & as far back as the 350L 2 Cycle Firebreathing A T V ()Standard Equipment )-Wire that in from POSITIVE Supply on to your loom, & attch its earth ( Negative cable to NEGATIVE > - on Your Battery!--That done, procede to your RecRegulator Unit &Examine Likely "Melting of Delrin (Nyloc, White looking plastic connector plug to terminals of Rectifier/Regulator , Test Output from Alternator., Ensure ALL Eaths have been attended properly, by Unscrewing, & Shining through the Paintwork Refit, tighten & Apply Silicone Sealant ( So that when You "Power Clean" the Motorcycle You wont be "Degrading the EARTHS again!--Now Ride!--If the Loom Loom, near steering head happens to "Short out" The POLARIS Re Settable Fuse Link & Sealed in waterproof covering, will Re Set & then You get chance to further investigate at Your workshop!!Arm yourself with Voltohmyst , or Multimeter OOR mini pointer that can sense Current Flowing, check out ALL Swithes ( Disconnect rear brake light switch & front one by way of unplugging supply leads ( Just possible that You have intermittant short in one of them!--Did You happen to note IF You were turning slightly to Left or Right when Fuse Blew?--Well, look then for "Stress areas for wiring looms, as at Steering Head Stem region, Open the Sheath with Razor Blade & attempt to pull wires apart slightly , then EXAMINE RFOR>bare leads !---With Multimeter You could slowly "ISOLATE" components & IF You had reference to WIRING CHART You then could Painstakingly TRACE EACK LEAD & ENSURE it has no "LEAKAGE "--Best Of Luck & "StayUpright" -Des.
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
Check your ground wire to the frame. Clean and refasten....and find a new mechanic, no excuse for inferior workmanship...Sure sound like a ground problem !......Good Luck to you friend....Tim
Posted on May 10, 2009
TRY A TO BYPASS ALL SYSTEMS WITH A POSITIVE LEAD SHOULD WORK BUT YOU NEED AT LEAST 9VOLTS TO GET THE IGNITER TO EVEN THINK ABOUT LETTING THE COILS HAVE ANY POWER TO EXPLODE THE GAP POINT OF YOU'RE SPARK PLUGS SO GOOD LUCK
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
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