I can't seem to loosen the cover around the starter. I fell and caused an oil laek in the cover. I'm repalcing it all the screws are out it won't budge around were the starter comes through the cover. Please Help.
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Re: removing left side engine covers
You can purchase a Hand Impac Driver at Napa for around 15 dollars..
You simply place it against the screw and hit the other end with a hammer and this will free up the screw.. this should be a fixya for you
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(391) Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor
Inside the transmission behind side cover
Remove the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement .
Important: Lock steering wheel in centered position with wheels straight ahead.
Remove the engine dress cover.
Remove the air cleaner intake duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Inlet Duct Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.1L or Air Cleaner Inlet Duct Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.8L.
Remove the engine mount struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 3.1L or Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Right Side and Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Left Side in Engine Mechanical - 3.8L.
Important: For supercharged engines, remove the throttle cable bracket.
Disconnect the shift cable bracket.
Remove the transaxle top side cover bolt.
Install the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture in Engine Mechanical - 3.1L or Engine Support Fixture in Engine Mechanical - 3.8L.
Disconnect the transmission wiring harness connector.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Remove the left inner splash shield 3 push pins.
Loosen the wheel speed sensor harness from the 5 retainers at the cradle.
Remove the transmission support to cradle nuts only. Refer to Transmission Mount Replacement .
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the front splash shield 5 bolts.
Loosen the engine mount lower nuts. Refer to Engine Mount Bracket Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 3.1L or Engine Mount and Bracket Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 3.8L.
Remove the stabilizer bolts and reposition the stabilizer.
Remove the steering gear cradle bolts, then support gear before lowering cradle.
Support the left side of the frame with a jackstand.
Remove the left side frame bolts. DO NOT loosen the right front or the right rear frame bolts. Refer to Frame Replacement in Frame and Underbody.
Remove the left ball joint from the steering knuckle.
Position the drain pan under the transaxle.
Remove the left drive axle from the transaxle. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement in Drive Axle.
Secure the drive axle to the steering knuckle/strut.
Adjust the jackstand to lower the left side of the frame until it hangs free. Remove jack stand.
Lower vehicle to access engine support fixture.
Lower the engine/transmission assembly with the engine support fixture to gain access to remaining side cover bolts.
If replacing the side cover, remove 4 engine mount bracket bolts.
Remove the harness retainer.
Raise vehicle to access side cover bolts.
Remove the case side cover bolts (56-58).
Remove the case side cover pan (53).
Remove the case side cover gasket (54).
Clean the case.
Clean the side cover gasket mating surfaces.
Disconnect the wiring harness assembly from the fluid temperature sensor (391).
Remove the fluid temperature sensor (391).
Install the fluid temperature sensor (391).
Connect the wiring harness assembly to the with fluid temperature sensor (391).
Install the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement .
Important: It is recommended that transmission adaptive pressure (TAP) information be reset. Resetting the TAP values using a scan tool will erase all learned values in all cells. As a result, The ECM, PCM or TCM will need to relearn TAP values. Transmission performance may be affected as new TAP values are learned.
Reset the TAP values. Refer to Transmission Adaptive Functions .
you need to remove the cover from the engine ,7-16th wrench there are three bolts , lift cover straight up from engine , turn cover over and using compressed air blow out grass and other dirt in there (cover ur eyes) back on engine there is a small silver cover just below center of flywheel (round thing) , using a lite grade oil spray liberally around the edges of cover , rotate four sided nut backwards a few times with hand , till you hear balls inside come free , reinstall cover , reinstall three bolts , start engine normally
First disconnect the battery cable. Then you'll have to pull the primary cover off the engine. Find the primary case drain plug underneath the rear of the primary case and remove it to drain the oil. Find the primary chain tensioner underneath the primary cover near the center and loosen the locknut. Turn the screw downwards to loosen the tension on the primary chain. Remove the left foot peg and take the "derby cover" off of the primary cover. Remove the spring and lock nut underneath the derby cover. Remove the bolts around the primary cover. As you gently pull the primary cover away from the engine, turn the clutch adjuster screw under the derby cover in a clockwise direction until the primary cover comes off. Remove the battery cable where it bolts onto the starter motor and the small single wire that plugs to the motor. Just above the clutch assembly there are two bolts. Remove these bolts and the starter will come off the engine. The bolts are different lengths. Make sure you mark which bolt goes where.
Remove exhaust crossover pipe at manifold and converter.
Remove flywheel cover.
Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines at oil pan.
Remove engine mount 'through' bolts on V8. Loosen right bolt and remove left on V6.
Remove oil pan bolts and lower oil pan. Check that forward crankshaft
throw and/or counter balance weight are not extending downward so to
block oil pan removal. Turn crankshaft, necessary, to put throw on
yes, I just changed one of these recently. Had to take both front and bottom off engine. Very difficult repair, as there are no good jack points for the engine when you have all the motor mounts off.
Here is procedure I would recommend.
Remove starter and engine to transmission brackets front and back.
Remove transmission starter gear cover.
drain oil and remove oil pan.
put a block under the crankshaft and jack to release weight on motor mount.
remove front motor mount (by serpentine belt)
remove compressor and bracket.
remove crank pulley and vib damper.
remove timing cover. mark timing belt with direction of travel
loosen tensioner gear.
remove timing belt.
remove crankshaft timing gear and key.
remove seal and oil pump housing.
clean gasket surfaces.
replace seal and reverse procedure.
No, the engine does NOT have to come out of the frame.
First, disconnect the battery. Drain the primary cover, remove the shifter, foot peg, loosen the primary chain adjuster under the outer cover, whatever needs to be removed depending on your model Sportster to get the primary cover off.
From the right side of the bike, remove the exhaust system and whatever you need to remove to get the starter off. Disconnect the large battery cable and the single wire from the starter.
Back on the left side, there are two large bolts just above the clutch assembly, remove them. They may be different lengths so watch for that. Remove the starter.
The starter is right behind,or above depending on the engine size of the front frame work!Around in the center ! From 1-- 10 about a 5 in difficult remove and replace. And about even with the top of the oil pan. Unhook the positive battery cable first ,then the cable and wiring from starter solenoid. there may be a plastic cover hideing the 2 bolts.Remover the cover,then loosen the starter upright
bolts then remove the one short one on the rear bracket,of the starter,to the lower part of the engine block! Check flywheel for worn teeth,or flat spots, and converter bolts for tightness!
most likely it is the valve cover gasket. it covers the valve train where there is alot of oil to lube the top of the motor. if the head gasket was leaking it may have more signs of running poorly. also having coolant leaks also. so i will have to say valve cover gasket. now usally you may have a oil burning smell with it depending on the area of the lek but not always.
the valve cover can easily be seen when the hood is open. it is right on the top and where it meets the clyinder head is where the gasket is and the leak can be seen.