Question about 2003 Suzuki TL 1000 R
Posted by Anonymous on
Loosen axle nut a little, raise and support rear tire off the ground, loosen chain adjustments and remove axle. Reinstalling is a bit tougher and it's much easier if you have an assistant to help line things up. Make sure you install the spacers and brake caliper exactly as they were, most spacers are different sizes left & right. Adjust chain and tighten axle nut.
Posted on Apr 02, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Jack the rear of the bike as high as you can safely get away with. The rear fender makes you require a lot of clearance to get the wheel clear of the bike.
Make note of the protrusion of the rear brake actuator rod and remove it from the actuator arm. Remove the bolt from the rear brake plate anchor arm.
Remove the plastic cover from the left side of the axle.
Remove the cotter pin from the axle end, then remove the nut by holding it with a wrench while turning the left end of the axle with a socket. You may need to tap the right end of the axle to start it moving out, and this is a tight area because of the pipes, but it should not take too much coercion. Once it begins to budge, you should be able to work it out from the left side. Remove the axle spacer.
While supporting the wheel ( I use my auto jack for this), wiggle the wheel until the drive unit splines disengage. You are now ready to work the wheel out from under the fender. There is a sleeve inside the drive end of the wheel, try not to let it pop out and get dirty. Don't forget to grease those drive splines when reinstalling, and to restore the brake rod to its former setting, unless you are adjusting it at the same time.
Posted on Nov 02, 2010
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