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That is typical for most cars. The front lower (foot area) vents allow cold air to come in just before the heater kicks in (heat value opens). If this just started, may be wait for a warm / hot day and see it continues. Sometimes people forget as this typically happen only on colder days. I wouldn't worry about it. To make it stop, turn off the heater - A/C and wait for the car to warm up before turning on the heater. The car is warm once the engine temp gauge starts to move up / show warmer. In most typical cars it takes about 5 to 7 minutes running get the engine temp up to a point where the heater will blow warmer air. If you have more details / concerns - post them, the more you include (car make, model & year, when did the problem start, anything make it worse or better, influencing conditions e.g. rain, cold, hot, dry, etc the better).
It may be a faulty thermostat that is binding in colder weather.The thermostat opens and closs controlling the flow of the coolant.It almost completey keeps the coolant from circulating until reaching a pre determined temperature opening and closing to maintain that temp.It could be sticking wide open and colder temps thus moving the coolant too fast not allowing it tom remain in the engine block long enough to be heated.
Hello there and welcome to fixya this is actually a simple dial this is what they mean C= COLDER THIS IS THE SETTING IF YOU WANT TO LOWER THE TEMPERATURE FROM LETS SAY 38 DEGREES TO 35 DEGREES THEN YOU WOULD TURN THE DIAL A LITTLE BIT TOWARDS THE C N= NORMAL RANGE THIS IS WHERE IT SHOULD BE SET AT AFTER IT IS AT THE TEMPS ARE ALLOWED TO STABILIZE W=WARMER MEANING IF THE REFRIGERATOR IS TOO COLD MOVE IT TOWARDS THE W A FEW NOTCHES THIS WILL INCREASE THE TEMP MAKING IT A LITTLE BIT WARMER INSIDE OF THE REFRIGERATOR OK? HOPE THIS HELPS PLEASE IF THIS HELPS GIVE MEA GOOD RATING I NEED ALL THE HELP I CAN GET BEST REGARDS MIKE
If the freezer box is good and making ice thats dry, its an airflow issue. The reefer box section is reliant upon the freezer box section for its cold air, it has no evaporator of its own. There are 2 dials or controls one says 1-10 and has an OFF position that will shut off the compressor. The other says COLDER/WARMER and will not shut down anything except the flapper door that regulates the amount of air allowed to migrate into the reefer box from the freezer box. The normal reaction when finding a warm box is to max out both settings! 19 rather than 1 and COLDER rather than WARMER, setting. Which sounds correct, except the COLDER means colder freezer box, not reefer box, thus closing down even further the amount of air available to the reefers box. Sounds crazy and really makes a customer mad to pay $75 for a guy to turn the COLDER to WARMER and be done! Many question its accuracy , yet learn soon when the refers cold again. or they remove the back panel to see for themselves and operate the setting to see the flappers workings.
Typically the lower the Letter or Number is the warmer setting for the freezer or fridge section. If you want to make them colder, move the control setting ONE (1) increment at a time, in any 24 hour time period (up or down) and allow the fridge to adjust before making another change in the settings.
Again, A is warmer than B, and 1 is warmer than 2, and so on. So going to a higher letter or number, will make the unit colder.
Just remember it will take at least 24 hours for your unit to adjust and compensate for the changes, so only make them gradually, so you can tell if you've reached the desired cooling settings for both the fridge and the freezer. Typically, most manufacturers recommend that the starting position be in the middle of the dial and that you adjust them up or down from there.
I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!