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the actual horn is behind the front grille near the bottom of the bumper or that area..looks like a snail shell but much larger..may have two wire connections or just one...a hot wire attatched to the connector should sound the horn if not replace but check before install..
Be sure to change the piston and rings sometime around two years from now, but only if you want to. So long as the engine doesn't seize up due to lack of oil in the gas, the piston and rings should last for years. Please rate my answer.
or the stator backing plate.
Reply With QuoteIf you have the larger 2K-3 ignition the stator has an insert with a single hole in one of the slots to fix the timing. This can be seen in the photo I posted in the DC conversion thread. If you have a 2K-2 the M5 holes in the cases for the 2K-3 will be unused. The upper hole will be visible. If an M5 cap screw and 12mm OD flat washer is snugged down in this hole, the stator plate can then be rotated until it contacts the edge of the washer. The 2K-2stator plate bolts should then be just off center in the slots. This works out well on the 250 and I think the timing for the 300 is the same.,,,
halogen headlight taillight/brake light turn signals odo/speedo and horn.
Here are the problems…
Above about 6000 RPM the ignition will intermittently cut out. It doesn’t do it all the time. The higher the RPM the more it tends to cut out. Reducing RPM brings the lights back to bright.
Above about 6000 RPM the lights start to dim intermittently. The higher the RPM the dimmer they get to where the lights almost go out. The engine runs fine if the RPM is reduced.
The tachometer records some very high RPMS when the system starts to act up. Max RPM recorded is 19999 which is totally unreasonable.
I am looking for some assistance in troubleshooting my electrical system and how to isolate the problem(s).,Start by disconnecting the cables from the generator coils and start up your engine. Problem still there?
Do this to find out if your problems stems from the power side or the ignition side. If bike now runs fine, I'd look at the voltage regulator.
Have you checked that all your connectors are ok? A grounding problem with a somewhat loose connector would be vibration sensitive, hence the problems at higher rpm. Is your stator plate securely fastened? Is your engine grounded to chassis? There might be a loose fastening in one of you engine mounts.
Reply With Quote,,,
Here is a tech article I wrote up on my old 2001 XC250. Since it is of the same general vintage you may want to look at the wiring diagram shown in the article. My guess is that the wiring color codes would be similar.