Question about 1998 Honda CBR 1100 XX Super blackbird
Battery went flat on my honda blackbird after charging it up and started the bike all indicator stopped on and won't go off all indicators stop on and will not go off but the bike still starts@
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Advice needed Honda Blackbird Charging issue
1997 1998 Honda CBR1100XX Service Repair Workshop Manual Download Download... $15
Honda CBR1100XX Owner Manual
Posted on Oct 20, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: honda cbr 900 94 wont start
hi m8,, having a head ache i see,, my m8 had one of these,, still has,, and had the same problem, i see u have checked a few things there ,,and convinced they are ok,, then ,check u dont have an air leak in the air box,, and all clips are secure, and that u havent creased the fuel or vacume pipes under the tank,,if all is ok, behind the rear side panel is the aluminium lookin cdi box ,or ignitor, with about 5 or 6 wires connected to it,, u need to get this tested ,, or borrow 1 and try it,, there about 130 quid new, so test it 1st,, this does play up,, and 1 min it runs great,, next day 2 miles up the road itl stutter ,,or stop,, any probs m8,, shout and i will anserw,,cheers
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
you will find with the age of the bike that the coil is probably caput. this camn be changed with a lot of brute force and ignorance. it is behind the crank housing and will only come off with a crank puller, this should solve your probs.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
SOURCE: battery wont stay charged
Ok this is probably one of two things either you have a bad earth on the bike causing a poor re charge rate or your alternator / magneto has gone up the spout ?.
If it is a bad earth you will probably be getting other symptons as well for insatnce rear bulbs blowing or headlight bulbs blowing ..horn or starter ( if fitted ) works intermittently you get the picture . check around the bike to all points where the loom attaches to the frame or the engine ( usually black wire bolted to earth ..= frame ) remove and check wires then clean the area it was attached to with a bit of sand paper / emery cloth and refit especially the one from the battery Minus side Black ?. that will go straight to frame somewhere . If it stays the same after you do this you need to check the output of the magneto . with the bike running place a multimeter on the battery terminals voltages should be any where between 12.volts to 13.5 or higher check specs in manuel if not then Magneto / dynamo / alternator faulty finaly if all else fails ( and this was left till last as you said it was new check the ph of the battery ie sometimes new battries should be full of acid but are not .. just water I have had a few .. especially if they are the none maintanance type . .. hope this helps Regards vortash
Posted on May 11, 2009
Sometimes when the battery keeps going dead like that, a component may be creating a current draw. you can do a simple current draw test with a fluke meter by setting the meter to read amps, make sure the test leads are in the proper portals on the fluke for an amp test, and disconnect one of the battery cables and connect the test leads in-line with the battery and cable. It would help to know you have a good fuse inside the fluke. They are easy to blow, and whatever you do, DO NOT try to start the unit with the meter hooked up for the amp draw test. That is how fuses are blown. With the key off, check for any amp draw. If there is, you can start unplugging components until the draw goes away. If there was no draw to begin with, you may have a stator coil (or alternantor, whichever it has) that is weak and can't keep up.
Posted on Jun 11, 2009
have you checked the switchs?..all wires are on them..& 1st check the fuse as not blown...the regultor charges the battery....so if the battery is fully charged the indicators & horn should still work..i would look for a wireing fault 1st...hope this helps
Posted on Jan 26, 2010
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