I have purchased a 3" forward control extension kit for my 2005 fxst. It requires me to remove the rear brake line and replace dit with a new longer one which was supplied with the kit. What is the proper procedure for removing the line without loosing to much fluid and allowing air into the system?
No matter what you do, you r gonna lose some fluid and get air in the line. When you take the line off the whole master cylinder is not going to drain completly out, only what is in that line itself you will lose. and about the air; its simply putting the new line on and bleading it like you would any other brake line job.
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Hi Anonymous, depends on the average temperature you expect to be riding in untill your next oil change. Contact your local dealer for advice. HD makes several different grades of oil. If you elect to run HD 20w50 SYN 3, which I highly recomend, then it does not matter what temperature you are going to ride in. As an added bonus they call it SYN 3 because you can run 20w50 in your engine, transmission and primary and it comes in a single container to change all 3. No longer do have to purchase 3 different types of oil for your Harley. Great stuff
Pretty staight forward, I always replace my brakes when I do the tire wheather they need it or not its just easier. Remove the tire take the caliper put something between the pads (large screwdriver ) push the pistons into the caliper all the way, remove ONLY the two middle screws 5/16 i think. Take the pads out put neverseize on the shafts of the srews and reinsert snug down reassemble wheel.. Bleed brakes.
Unless Harley has changed the position of the rear brake master cylinder, I wouldn't think you'd need to change a brake line. I don't think the master cylinder moved during the original change, just the rod that runs from the pedal back to the master cylinder. Just take the two extension plates out and replace the rods with originals.
Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper into the caliper bracket. Lift the caliper off the bracket and set aside. Do not crimp the hose as this can damage the hose on the inside.
Notice how the pads and the metal anti-rattle clips are positioned in the caliper bracket. Remove the old pads and clips and replace with the new parts. Make sure the rear pad is positioned with the fiber material towards the rotor. I've seen many put in metal to metal by good mechanics because it's on the backside of the rotor.
Now, you must compress the piston back into it's bore in the caliper. I use either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to do this. Use a rag or something to prevent scratching the paint on your caliper. With the piston compressed completely back into it's bore, carefully replace the caliper into the caliper bracket. Do not disturb the pads or clips.
Install the two bolts with a bit of blue Loctite #242 medium hold on the threads and torque to 20 foot pounds. Check the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder.
Slowly depress the rear brake pedal and release until you have a full firm pedal. Test the brakes before you ride the bike. Improperly serviced brakes can cause serious injury or death. Make sure they work correctly before riding the bike.
Unless they've changed something that I don't know about, simply remove the pegs that are on the bike now and replace them with whatever type of pegs you want.
Now, if your bike is equipped with forward controls and you are wishing to install a set of mid mount foot pegs, you will need to purchase the foot peg mounting pieces. You need to go to a dealership, look at the parts manuals, and order the parts you need from them. Or, you could look around at a swap meet and possibly find the parts you need used. By doing this, you would have both mid mount and forward controls. Just make sure there is no interference with any linkage for the rear brakes or shifting. I have not done this particular job on a Sportster but have done it on a Dyna Wide Glide once. Turned out nice but the control linkage is different on a Sportster.
I think your rear master cylinder is 5/8" in diameter since it is only a single disc in the rear brake. Dual disc front brakes usually have the larger 3/4" diameter master cylinder. If you take the master cylinder apart, you can either measure the bore or look on the rubber "cup". The size is usually on the cup.