I have a 1.8 ltr nissan pulsar.on very hot days after being driven it will not crank over,the ignition lights up but thats all not even a click.It will start after leaving for a while!could it be a relay or the imobiliser.any help appreciated.thanks!!
Could have bad battery cables.i have seen old battery cables with lot miles on them cause high resistance in cranking circuit.i had 81 olds years ago positive battery cable had a crack place in it.when engine cold car would crank when engine got hot the positive battery cable crack expand cause no start.make engine timing correct if engine timing off cause engine run hot that will cause engine not to start make sure engine has new air filter.engine needs air to breath also.
Once had the same problem the armature in the starter expands when hot and wont crank cools down and starter works
i thought about that,but i dont think that is the problem as it only does it now and then and only on really hot days.the igntion comes on when i hit the immobiliser so i am not sure if its that or a relay.thanks anyway!
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SOURCE: CAR WONT START 1995 NISSAN MAXIMA GXE V6 REPLACED
it might be in your ignition still try turning it from the first click acc to stat and dont stop on the on position thats how mine is
SOURCE: 2001 Nissan Sentra idling and running issues
mcdevito75 here, I woild bring the car to an auto electrical shop and have them check out the entire electrical system.
SOURCE: 1998 Nissan pulsar automatic, has
Welcome to Fixya
Here's are common issues that your engine might be dealing. This problem would lead to engine not cranking.
Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).
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