Question about 1993 kawasaki GTR 1000

1 Answer

Gtr 1000 pushed starter clonk from engine engine seems locked solid

Put bike in 6th gear cannot turn the engine with spark plugs removed bike has been stored for the winter had this bike for 16 years never had this problem or any other problem with bike 29000 miles only

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  • brian daglish Jan 10, 2013

    your answer was correct but i think i have got away with it, cause was petrol tap was on bleed position over night and the battery was not stong enough to damage the engine will put it back together will let you know the out come thank you for your help

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  • Master
  • 409 Answers

Classic kawasaki hydraulic lock symptoms...basically a combination of sticking fuel tap plunger and sticking float valve on one of your carbs causes a cylinder to fill up with fuel. As this will not compress when the engine turns over the cylinder then locks up with a clonk. Easily confirmed by checking the oil as this will be contaminated with fuel...the level will have gone up and there will be a smell of petrol when you remove the filler cap. Unfortunately the commonest result of hydraulic lock is a bent conrod requiring an engine rebuild to replace.

Posted on Jan 08, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Benimur
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SOURCE: kawasaki zzr1200 non starter

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

A few ideas:

  • The buzzing/vibration would be the solenoid and it would only do so if the battery's charge is not sufficient to start the bike. If the battery is fully charged, then the sound would be a click/clack;
  • to try & free the engine internals, with the plugs removed, sparingly spray the inside of the combustion chamber with WD40 or preferably 2T oil (used for 2 stroke bikes). Let it sit for a while and then try turning the rear wheel while in first gear with the plugs still off;
  • alternately, try the starter again with the same conditions as above but rather than one long press of the starter button, try short/momentary press of the start button;
  • if the above fails, you may need to gain access to the left side of the engine by removing some of the body works. Some versions have a snap-off circular cover on the body. There would be a disc with slot, Remove said disc. Inside would be a big nut 17/19mm. You would need preferably a T wrench that fits and would be used to turn the crankshaft but not fully forcing it. You have to do it by feel. If considerable resistance, stop;
  • remove the entire body work; remove cylinder head with care on the rubber gasket. apply WD40 oil liberally on the camshaft, caps and let it drip down on the timing chain.
  • try again using the T wrench.
Would appreciate an update. Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.



Posted on Feb 23, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: kawasaki gpz 1000 rx 1987 model

Running well at high revs would indicate that all the fuel and air it needs are getting to the engine and you also have a good spark. Probably no problem with air and fuel filter ( if fitted) or sparkplugs.

Running hot, and bad idling are signs of a lean air fuel mixture. The engine is probably not getting enough fuel at low revs.

This could be caused by an air leak between the carburettors and the engine. Check that the vacuum line to the fuel tap is properly secured at both ends. It is behind the fuel line at the tap.

Get a a short length of hollow plastic tube and use it like a stethascope - put one end to your ear and move the other end around your carburettor mounts with your engine revs as low as you can get, and listen for any sucking noises that would indicate a leak. Look for cracks in the rubber inlets.

The other possibility is that there is an internal blockage in the idling jets or idling fuel circuit. This is where dirt tends to lodge because the jet dimensions and passageways are very fine - The high speed jets are much bigger and dirt often just passes straight through.

Try a little bit of choke while the engine is warm to see if you get a stronger low speed response. If so that would point to an internal blockage.

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: driveshaft removal

remove swingarm, i should have known better.

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

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SOURCE: flicker relay unit on kawasaki GTR 1000

I found a microfiche for the GTR1000 and it looks like the indicator-relay is mounted on the front-fairing inner-frame (fairing stay) on the right-hand side ie next to the headlamp-ish.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

  • 198 Answers

SOURCE: I just bought a 86 Eliminator from a guy who said

the clutch may be frozen in place. try disengaging the clutch, sit on the bike, and rock it back and forth and hard as possible. this may dislodge the clutch plates. it usually happens if the bike has sat for a while

Posted on May 16, 2010

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Try to start it at the soleniod switch by bridging the two points there ( i.e.one wire frm the battery and one tht goes to the starter motor right there on the solenoid).
If the starter still doesnt turn, thn you will have to remove it and overhaul.
Not bad to check the starter button too.
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Kawasaki zzr1200 non starter


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

A few ideas:
  • The buzzing/vibration would be the solenoid and it would only do so if the battery's charge is not sufficient to start the bike. If the battery is fully charged, then the sound would be a click/clack;
  • to try & free the engine internals, with the plugs removed, sparingly spray the inside of the combustion chamber with WD40 or preferably 2T oil (used for 2 stroke bikes). Let it sit for a while and then try turning the rear wheel while in first gear with the plugs still off;
  • alternately, try the starter again with the same conditions as above but rather than one long press of the starter button, try short/momentary press of the start button;
  • if the above fails, you may need to gain access to the left side of the engine by removing some of the body works. Some versions have a snap-off circular cover on the body. There would be a disc with slot, Remove said disc. Inside would be a big nut 17/19mm. You would need preferably a T wrench that fits and would be used to turn the crankshaft but not fully forcing it. You have to do it by feel. If considerable resistance, stop;
  • remove the entire body work; remove cylinder head with care on the rubber gasket. apply WD40 oil liberally on the camshaft, caps and let it drip down on the timing chain.
  • try again using the T wrench.
Would appreciate an update. Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.



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