Question about Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

Will a 1993 flywheel with cam pinion gear shaft and sprockedrive shaft work in a 1991 engine

Bought a new S&S Superstock crankcase which came with a 1993 flywheel installed with the cam pinion gear shaft and sprocket drive shaft fitted,have now found out Harley changed the cam pinion gear style in 1992,will these 1993 shafts be too big or different to use with the 1991 primary side rotor and stator and cam cover/SE11 cam and breather gear from the crankcase it is replacing or will the new style pinion gear be required

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Top Expert:

    An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 40,748 Answers

Hi, Ian this is a 25 year old issue that I have run across before but for the life of me I do not remember how it was resolved it can be fixed though, I would call S&S tech department for their feedback. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
1991 1993
https://www.carlsalter.com/pdfs/Harley%20Davidson-HD%201984-1998%20FLH-FLHT-FXR-FXSB-FXEF%20Service%20Manual.pdf
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
http://www.harley-davidson.com/content/h-d/en_US/home/owners/maintain-your-bike/owners-manual.html
Instant Tech Relief To speak to me personally absolutely "FREE"

Posted on Jul 13, 2017

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

reddevil6
  • 1673 Answers

SOURCE: Bissell Proheat 2x Series 8920 - Brush Belt Metal Shaft Sprocket won't turn

Most likely the brush motor is bad and not turning, part #2036757, would sell for around $23. To get to it, start taking out screws on the top cover, that motor is under the that top access cover.

Posted on Jan 22, 2008

1SANTA
  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: gear slipping in dewalt dw056

You can go to dewalt online and buy replacement parts.

Posted on May 22, 2009

  • 2002 Answers

SOURCE: i'm replacing my transmission in my 1991 gmc full

If my memory serves me right, I'm pretty sure the only way to change the tail shaft is to tear the transmission apart. Depending on how much extra length you have you might be able to rig up some kind of spacer, but keep in mind that it will be supporting a lot of weight. You are probably better off finding the right transmission and re selling the one you have.

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

  • 269 Answers

SOURCE: I am getting ready to pull the primary chain on my

Crank is standard @ 150-165ft/lbs torque
"Clutch" is reversed.

Posted on Sep 03, 2009

BCAS1298
  • 3092 Answers

SOURCE: Rear axle oil seals leaking, book shows to remove

TAKE TIRES OFF, REMOVE DIFF. COVER, ON 3rd MEMBER THERE A PIN ABOUT 11/2" DIA. THAT GOSE RIGHT THOUGH THE 3rd MEMBER CLOSE TO ONE OF THE ENDS OF THAT PIN OPOSIT OF RING GEAR THERES AN 8mm SMALL HEAD BOLT ( TURN RING GEAR TO CHECK OTHER END OF PIN ) REMOVE BOLT PUSH AXLE IN REMOVE HORSE SHOES CLIP IN 3rd MEMBER SLIDE AXLE OUT.

Posted on Nov 10, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

How do you replace the rack and opinion on a 92 cutlass ceira


Here you are - power rack & pinion.

Except 2.2L and 1993-96 3.1L Engines
See Figure 1
  1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
  2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure hoses from the steering gear.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
  4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both tie rod ends. Using tool J-6627 or BT-7101, press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
  5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember.
  6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. (102-127mm).

WARNING
If the rear of the cradle is lowered too far, the engine components nearest the cowl may be damaged.
  1. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion heat shield.



Fig. Fig. 1: Power rack and pinion assembly
  1. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the gear assembly through the left wheel opening.
To install:
  1. Install the gear assembly through the left wheel opening and install the mounting bolts.
  2. Install the heat shield.
  3. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the mounting bolts.
  4. Install the bracket bolt to the crossmember under the air management pipe.
  5. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new cotter pins.
  6. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  7. Install the high pressure hoses to the steering gear and install the air cleaner.
  8. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
2.2L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near rear of frame including the brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hangers.
  2. Remove the engine and transaxle mount nuts at the subframe.
  3. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  4. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  5. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
Do not lower the rear of the cradle too far, as damage to engine components nearest the cowl may result.
  1. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  2. Disconnect the power steering lines from the steering gear.
  3. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  4. Remove the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near the rear of frame including brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hanger.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Remove the support fixture.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
  15. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  16. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.
3.1L Engine (VIN M)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove engine torque strut from engine.
  3. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  6. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  7. Remove the center engine and rear transaxle mounts from the frame.
  8. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  9. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the brace bolts and brace, including brake line brace.
  2. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  3. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  4. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
  5. Remove the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Remove the clip holding lines at rack assembly.
  7. Disconnect the power steering lines and O-rings.
  8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  9. Remove the rack and pinion unit through the left wheel well.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten the mounting bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Install the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the brace and bolts including brake line brace.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  13. Lower the vehicle.
  14. Remove the support fixture.
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.
  16. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  17. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

25936701-ge4w2xkagkibehwv23tkbbb2-2-0.gif

Nov 01, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Is there some sort of relay for the starter gear to catch on flywheel?


On top of your starter is a "solenoid", which does two jobs:
1. it's the starter relay,
and
2. it engages the pinion gear on the starter with the flywheel.
There is a "bendix spring" that retracts the gear when you stop cranking. The gear can get stuck on the shaft, and the starter will just spin....

Jun 05, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Does a 19hp kohler have timing marks?


for the cam shaft yes it should have timing marks that make sure your cam shaft and crankshaft are aligned. the keyway on the flywheel ligns the flywheel up with its ignition cycle obviously but yes the cam has marks for the crank

May 02, 2015 | Garden

1 Answer

Does the #1 piston have to be on tdc before replacing the cams in my 2006 harley sportster which is the #1


No, completely ignore any marks on the flywheels. These are for ignition timing only. Align the cams using the mark on the pinion gear and the cams. The pinion gear mark must be aligned with the mark on the pinion shaft. Once this is on correctly, align the marks on the cams to the pinion gear and the other cams. Once the engine is back together. set the ignition timing using the flywheel marks. There is no #1 cylinder, this ain't an automotive engine. You have a front cylinder and a rear cylinder. All timing marks on the flywheel are for the front cylinder. Front cylinder top dead center and Front cylinder advanced timing marks.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 07, 2011 | 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

2008 FLHX. Pinion shaft runout at the end of shaft is .006 Flywheels on the truing stand show .0005 at the pinion shaft and .002 at the sprocket shaft Measurments taken on the bearing inner races.


If you suspect a bent pinion shaft, you cannot use a traditional truing stand to detect this since it uses the center drill divot in the end of the pinion. It's curious that you measure 0.0005" at the bearing race on the pinion side. Evidently the wheels were trued to allow for this bend. Turn your dial indicator around and check the true of the face of the pinion side flywheel half. On the Twin Cam and Evo flywheels, the shafts are not replaceable like they are on Shovelhead and earlier models.

I'd try checking the end of the pinion shaft with the flywheel assembly running in "V" blocks positioned at the bearing area. Lubricate the "V" block and put the dial indicator at the end of the pinion. The 0.002" on the sprocket shaft is technically not within specs (0.0001" spec) but I've seen them fine with this much runout. Besides, if you're checking this with a bent pinion in a traditional truing stand, you may not be getting a good reading.

The only other way I know of checking the pinion is by splitting the flywheel assembly and checking the right half in a lathe.

Now, I've been hearing some talk about this problem on the late model engines. I cannot see how the pinion shaft is being bent with all the support points it has in the cases. I have not witnessed this myself but I have heard of it.

Good Luck
Steve

Jan 21, 2011 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

1 Answer

How to assemble oil pump 1995 Heritage


Assembling an oil pump is not that difficult provided you do a few things to insure that it works correctly. Now, you didn't tell me if the engine was in the frame or out. The difference is that the oil pump drive shaft will already be in the engine and the assembly will be different than if the shaft is out of the engine.

The first thing is that you want to make sure the oil seal is in the pump body and that it's installed in the correct direction. The lip of the seal must face the feed side of the pump. If you look at the gears and the pump body, you'll see that two gears are "thicker" than the other two. Also, the area that these gears go into are the same, one side it deeper than the other in the pump body. The "thin" gears are the feed gears that pump oil into the engine and the "thick" gears are the scavenge gears that pump the oil out of the engine. Once you get the seal installed correctly. You can start putting the gears and drive keys in.

Start by pulling the drive shaft out the back side to the engine as far as possible and installing the inner oil pump gasket. "Stick" the gasket to the engine case with a thin coating of grease. Slide the driven scavenge gear on the shaft with the drive key installed in the keyway of the shaft. The driven gear is the gear with the keyway cut in it. Lubricate the drive shaft and slide the pump body up to the gears making sure you don't go too far and knock the key out of the shaft.

Now put the drive key for the feed side of the pump in the keyway of the shaft and install the feed side driven gear. Make sure the key does not come out of the keyway. Once you get this installed, put the idle feed gear in the pump body. Then install the snap ring on the pump end of the shaft.

Now, carefully slide the pump towards the engine while holding the oil pump drive gear in place in the cam chest. Slide the pump body up to the engine and loosely install the two short bolts in the pump body holding it to the engine. Turn the pump drive shaft and the drive gear so that the keyways are aligned and use a pair of needle nose pliers to insert the key. Then install the snap ring on that end of the shaft.

Then, "stick" the outer oil pump gasket on the outer face of the oil pump body and install the outer cover of the oil pump. Install the four bolts and snug them up to the cover. Now you are ready to tighten the bolts. You should have the pinion gear and oil pump drive gear removed from the pinion gear of the pinion shaft of the flywheel. This will allow you to turn the oil pump while you torque the bolts.

The oil pump bolts torque to 90-110 INCH pounds. Torque the bolts in a criss cross pattern while turning the drive gear in the cam chest with your fingers. If the pump tightens up at any point, you must loosen and reposition the pump slightly and start tightening the pump again. The goal is to get the pump to final torque and still be able to turn the pump freely. Freely is the key word here. Not herky-jerky turning or having to force the gear to turn.

Good Luck

Nov 10, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

1 Answer

My car is having trouble starting up the starter is making fkat buzzing sound any ideas?


Sounds like a slipping pinion gear. Remove starter solenoid assembly and put on the kitchen table, old newspapers for protection are optional. The pinion gear is the one on the end of the starter motor shaft that is driven forward to engage with e toothed edge of the flywheel. It should free wheel in one direction and lock solid when reversed. The locking clutch mechanism its what supplies the motor's rotation to the flywheel to crank the engine over. If the pinion gear clutch is slipping the motor makes a whizzing sound as the shaft spins within it. You can buy a new pinion gear cheaply. Whilst the motor is out buy a refurbishment kit ($10) for the solenoid consisting of contact striker plates and plunger . This preventative measure will avoid any hassle in this department for many years.

Sep 27, 2010 | 2004 Ford F150

1 Answer

Tming settings on gears how to put them together by the marks


First, make sure you've got the oil pump drive gear and the pinion on the pinion shaft of the crank and the nut properly torqued. Identify the cams. You should have a "1W", "2W", "3W" and a "4W". "1W" is the rear exhaust and "2W" is the rear intake. "3W" is front intake and "4W" is front exhaust. They go into the engine cases in order 1W in rear, next 2W over the pinion gear, 3W in front of the pinion gear, and 4W all the way to the front of the engine.

Install the "1W" cam. Then install the "3W" and the "4W" cam with the timing marks aligned. Now position the pinion gear with the timing mark straight up and lock the crank. Now, you must install the "2W" cam last making sure that the three timing marks are aligned with the pinion gear, the "1W" cam, and the "3W" cam.

If you can't figure it out, contact me directly at wd4ity@bellsouth.net and I'll send you a picture.

Good Luck
Steve

Sep 06, 2010 | 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

2 Answers

MY 3.3 ENGINGE START UP AND THEN IT STOPS RUNING


it is on top of engine at the back were the cam-shaft is hope i have helped you

Apr 01, 2009 | 1993 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Setting new cams on a 883 sportster


witch timing marks the one on the cams or the flywheel if you lined all the cam marks up with the pinion gear your good to go the mark on the flywheel is for ign timing only

Jan 01, 2009 | 1993 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883

Not finding what you are looking for?
Motorcycles Logo

Related Topics:

30 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Harley Davidson Experts

Arnie Burke
Arnie Burke

Level 3 Expert

4514 Answers

Gills Lango

Level 2 Expert

195 Answers

Mike

Level 3 Expert

4336 Answers

Are you a Harley Davidson Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...