Question about 2007 Yamaha Stratoliner S
Changed battery. Turns over wont start. Sat for couple weeks on almost empty tank now full
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Fuel line to the carburetor or throttle body pinched or kinked.
8. Carburetor float stuck.
9. Fuel injectors clogged.
10. Severely discharged or damaged battery you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
11. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
12. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
13. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty MAP, CKP, O2, TPS, sensors.
14. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
15. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
16. Faulty CDI box.
17. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
18. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
19. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Bike won start Help the newb
Roadliner Won Start HELP
Yamaha ROADLINER XV19SW Owner Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Yamaha XV19SW Service Manual
Posted on Feb 03, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
could be a safety shutdown by computer, only your dealer can erase the code....and then you'll find out whats wrong...and why the computer doesn't want you starting and damaging the bike.......Good Luck to you friend....Tim
Posted on May 12, 2009
I think you have two problems.
First a venting issue in the tank. Pull your dash and you will see a vent tube coming from the tank. Make sure the elbow is clear and allowing air to flow. Then track the hose to under the seat. There you will find a thing called a rollover valve. These malfunction all the time. Remove it and put a fuel filter in its place or just a connector to next the two tubes again.
The wost thing with this rollover valve is that your tank can implode from the negative pressure built up. I have seen this happen.
This guys are experts in all things RoadStar and have helped me a great deal so check in with them as well. http://www.maxairengineering.com/
If you fuel gauge is not working right after this you need to check your fuel sending unit. It can be cleaned so post a follow up here for more on that.
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
Some basic rules I've learned and all of 20 minutes out of you life. People complain about valve noises or sluggish throttle response, well a crisp set of plugs firing does a lot to resolve these issues and for only $10 (standard plugs) is the cheapest performance mod going.
1) Replace your plugs annually (or at a minumum follow schedule of rear tire replacement) regardless of amount miles.
2) Plain and simple. Don't waste money on iridium because of #1 they spark the same it's just the tips that are suppposed to last longer.
3) Full removal of the tank is not needed but you will need to move it out of the way. Remove seat, remove center speedo and disconnect connectors, remove tank bolts, disconnect vent tube at the front portion of tank, lay a towel across the frame where seat normally goes, lift tank and turn tank sideways it will rest there without removing gas lines underneath, stock air box removal is not needed (BAK is even better for access), not certain what they mean by rider's seat bracket (at the back of the seat?) but obviously this is not needed either. There are wires zip tied to the frame that might need to be pushed out of the way or carefully cut the zip ties and just add new ones when done. (This just allows better access to get to the spark plug on right rear cylinder.)
4) A long screwdriver with small hose on end helps retrieve and reinstall plug on the front cylinder (unless you have very long fingers)
5) Go to auto parts store and purchase a socket with universal swivel for proper angle to losen or tighten plugs
6) A small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads is never a bad thing unless you use too much or it smears across the tips which would probably burn off anyway but that's just sloppy mechanics. (You want to be a sloppy hack like that, well you're outta the club... Go ride another brand.)
7) Use your hand never the socket to start the threads on the new plug. Place new plug in hole near cylinder and spin in reverse to align the threads then go in normal direction. If it does not feel correct at the start - never force it.
8) Do not over torque the spark plugs when tightening.
9) When reconnecting coil wires make certain you press down enough for a positive click to ensure proper connection.
10) Put tank and seat back in place and prepare for the response "why did I wait so long..." on the first ride...
Hope that helps.
Posted on Mar 09, 2010
SOURCE: tire pressure for stratoliner
For riding 2 up I recommend 38 front and 42 rear. Some riders have commented on some front wobble corrected by putting the front to 40 psi.
Posted on Mar 09, 2010
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