Question about 1995 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder
Brand new battery and it is dead
Either the battery has had it or you're alternator has. if theres no lights on the clock when engine running i'd say the battery was worn out. put a voltmeter across the battery before starting, should be in excess of 12 volts. start the engine and look again, should be up around 13+ volts, this will prove the charging circuit is ok. if the battery isn't faulty then you have a current leak somewhere, check all your connections especially alarm systems
Posted on Jan 06, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Any changes you make to the exhaust system will alter the sound the bike produces. The more you cut baffles,and open up the exhaust, the louder it will get. What you do alter to a greater extent,is the state of tune of the motorcycle. Any changes to exhaust or inlet plumbing will require a retune of the engine to suit the modifications. This can be subtle to dramatic. Opening up exhausts can often rob low end power where exhaust port scavaging is relient on some back pressure for maximum effect.
Best to work directly with an engine tuner to do the mods that are known you can get away with, or buy aftermarket prebuilt pipes that have a known previously tested state of tune. Nothing worse than doing something, that then costs money to put back the way it was on finding out it didnt work as well as was hoped.. Hope this has helped you steer your custom mods a little. I can say with certainty, that I have ventured to do what you are doing many times in the past, and it has always cost me more money in tuning and... and well more parts :) Cheers
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
One the left-hand side of the bike (facing forward), there is cover plate just ahead of the drive shaft. Remove that cover (mine has 8mm bolts). The bleeder valve is under this cover. Go to an auto parts store and get a "one man bleeder kit" or if you have some plastic tubing that will fit over the valve, you can use that and a clean jar. Follow the instructions on the bleeder kit, or if you're using the jar and tubing, fill the jar about a quarter of the way with break fluid (use DOT4, but never DOT5!). Take the cover off the master cylinder up at the handlebars, place the tube over the end of the bleed valve (after loosening it a turn or two. Place the other end of the tube down in the break fluid in the jar. Work the clutch lever until you stop getting bubbles in the jar. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tubing, top off the fluid and replace the covers.
Be careful not to get brake fluid on anything. It will eat paint and mess up other things.
Posted on Feb 13, 2009
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