Question about Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard Motorcycles
Cotter pin does not want to come out.
First it has to be good and straight where it was bent, no knuckles on the pin. Also be certain that if a castle nut is being used that the nut is turned to wher the pin is not in a bind againist one of the castle slots. It should come out under these circumstances. There is a hooked tool called a cotter pin remover that is helpful if it will fit and you have the room for it. Good luck
Posted on Jan 07, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: replace rear brake pads
Remove right saddlebag, pull the two caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Do not open bleeder or disconnect line. You will need to push a large screwdriver between the old pads before removing them in order to push the pucks back into the caliper or the new pads will not spread enough to reinstall. Then pull the two smaller bolts from the caliper and the pads will fall out. The pads are different for inside and outside, so pay attention, and remember, after reinstalling, before riding, be sure to pump brake pedal, and it may take a few stops before brakes stop as effectively as before.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
first ya need to suspend it in the air using a bike jack loosen chain tension on it unbolt the axel and it should come out from the rear of the bike
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
Drain the fuel either by siphening or removing the cross over tube at the front of the tank and letting it drain that way or just block off those cross over lines and leave the fule in the tank for removal.
0) remove seat
1) drain fuel
2) undo cross over line (bottom front of gas tank.
3) shut off pet **** and remove fuel line from pet ****.
4)there should only be 2 bolts holding the tank on, one at the top front of the tank and one at the back of the tank.
All in all a pretty easy (but possibloy messy) job.
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
To change the switch, first unplug the wires at the switch. Screw the old switch out and install the new switch into the tee connector. Do not depress either brake lever while the switch is out. Tighten the switch and reconnect the wires.
Usually you don't have to bleed any air out of the brake system but check the rear brakes for proper operaion. If the rear brake pedal goes too far down, bleed the brakes at the rear caliper. Make sure you don't run the rear brake master cylinder dry while bleeding the rear brake. Use only the approved type of brake fluid, do not mix the different types of fluid. Make sure the rear brakes are working properly before riding the bike.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
It's a lot of work.
First, disconnect and remove the battery. Don't want to lose a finger.
Drain the primary and remove the outer primary cover.
Remove the small bolt that holds the jackshaft onto the starter and remove it if you can. If it won't come out, you'll have to take the nut off the clutch assembly and slide it out just far enough to get the jackshaft out. To get to the nut, remove the clutch rod adjuster in the center of the clutch assembly by removing the snap ring. Loosen the nut, left handed threads. When retorquing 60-80 foot pounds, left handed. There is a coupling that connects the jackshaft to the starter, mark which way it comes out. Tapered end towards starter.
Remove the exhaust system if needed.
Remove all bolts holding the oil tank and lift it up as high as possible.
Disconnect the large battery cable and the small wire at the top of the starter.
Remove the two large bolts that hold the starter onto the inner primary cover.
Work starter out.
Posted on Apr 01, 2010
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