Question about Suzuki Motorcycles
Check the wiring - to the ignition switch and the kill switch --and follow ant other wires that lead from the ignition switch - look for broken or bare wires - or burnt wires - sone bikeshave the ignition wired to the side stand - check this connection at the side stand - a little plunger - it may be stuck or not moving correctly - some are also wired to the clutch - check here as well -
Posted on Jan 06, 2013
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The ECU will not cause this symptom. They are giving you a line.
The link between the starter switch and the battery and the starter motor is pure electro-mechanical. The ECU covers how the engine works, electrically, things like timing, etc. not the starter motor.
The fact the bike starts to crank then stops says that there is at least a rudimentary path between the battery and the starter.
Just by the starter there will be a solenoid that controls the starter. It has a couple of screwed-down cables - those are the main power cables that feed the starter. You can bypass the solenoid by directly connecting those two cables - this will fore the starter to rotate, regardless of what any ECU says. I would perform that as a check but be careful - there is a lot of power going through it. Be careful not to touch the two terminals via the threaded portion of the screws that hold down the cables - only touch the bolts or you may weld a notch in the threads - it will make it difficult to remove if it is faulty.
I would normally use a single jump lead - connect one end to the nut holding down one lead, then momentarily touch the other nut - if the battery is good it WILL turn over. This is making the most basic of connections in the ignition system - connecting a battery to a motor - it can't fail if all is good and will certainly give you an indication of whether or not the battery is up to the task.
I would seriously reconsider your choices in mechanics, though. This is a basic test they should have performed.
Posted on Jul 01, 2009
You didn't mention what year model your bike is so I'll just generalize my response. Since you said that you replaced the solenoid, I'll assume that your bike is a 1988 model or earlier.
Your bike has a starter relay if it still has the stock wiring on it. Harley has used a starter relay since 1965 on the first model of ElectraGlide. Usually, it's underneath the battery tray or the seat or around that area.
On the back of your solenoid, you have three wire connections. Two very large connectors and one small connector. Make sure your bike is out of gear (in neutral) and use an old screwdriver to short between the large connector that comes from the battery and the small wire connection. The starter should engage and try to start the engine. If the ignition switch is on, it will start the engine. The starter will turn using this method with or without the switch being in the "on" position. If the starter works using this method, the problem is in either the relay or the neutral switch. If the starter does not turn the engine over, the problem is in the solenoid.
Now, let's check a few things. The small connector on the back of the solenoid should have a green or pink (depending on year) wire on it. Using a voltmeter or a test light, make sure you have voltage at the connector when you press the starter button with the switch in the "ON' position. If not, follow the wire to it's source, the relay.
The starter relay can be one of several different designs used throughout the years. It could be a small plastic cube, a small metal can, or a round phonelic relay. The relay should have four connections on it. A "hot" wire, a wire from the handlebar switch, the wire going to the starter, and a ground. The ground may be through the case itself. On the older Shovelhead bikes (1984 and earlier) there was a small short black wire that ran from the starter relay to the transmission for the ground. This wire must be intact or the relay would not work due to lack of a ground.
When you turn the switch on, one of the wires to the starter relay should become "hot". When you press the start button, you should hear a slight click and another of the smaller wires should now be "hot" as well, the one going to the starter.
On some year (1972 and later) models, the neutral switch was wired in with the starter relay. This was to prevent the bike from starting while "in gear" by disabling the relay. You'll have to figure this one out for yourself since I don't know what year model your bike is.
Now, you said you had power to the solenoid when you pushed the starter switch. So, let's assume that the starter failed the first test to told you aboue. If so, the problem is still most likely in the solenoid. Inside the solenoid, there is a large plunger with a copper disc on it. When you depress the starter switch, the coil in the solenoid becomes magnetized and pulls the plunger towards the back of the solenoid. This does two things, it engages the starter drive with the ring gear on the outer clutch drum and makes a high current electrical connection. The copper disc makes contact between the two large connections on the back of the solenoid from the inside. This connects the battery to the starter motor through the solenoid. If the black phonelic plate on the back of the solenoid is cracked or the contacts inside of it are badly burned, it will not work.
Now, if the solenoid is working correctly and you are getting voltage to your starter, it could be the brushes or something inside the starter. This is indicated if the starter trys to turn the engine over but just can't. It won't have enough power if the starter field windings are bad.
I hope I've given you something here that will help you solve your problem. This is basically the electrical part of the starter system. There are mechanical parts as well. If you hear the starter turning but the engine doesn't turn over, you have a mechanical problem. You can either repost or you can contact me directly at email@example.com I'll help if I can. Good Luck!
Posted on Nov 05, 2009
I have had the same problem. Been throught two batteries, new cables,checked the fuses 999 times. It only starts every now and then. You must take a wrench and get the positve cable just right and it will start for a week or so then back to the same thing. You would think after building motors for so long Harley could at least make a bike that starts.
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
could be a bad connection to the battery or the starter solinoid cant think how to spell it but its where the positive battery wire hooks up
Posted on Apr 17, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks for the information, sounds like it could be a loose connection. Where do I find the starter solenoid ? "
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 19, 2016 | Suzuki Boulevard C50T Motorcycles
Apr 03, 2014 | 1988 Suzuki LS 650 Savage
Jan 08, 2014 | 2006 Suzuki XL-7
Jan 06, 2013 | Suzuki Motorcycles
Dec 12, 2012 | Toyota Camry Cars & Trucks
Feb 10, 2012 | Suzuki Swift Cars & Trucks
Jul 06, 2010 | 2004 Suzuki Verona
Oct 27, 2009 | 1996 Isuzu Rodeo
Jul 22, 2009 | 2004 Suzuki VL 800 Volusia
84 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!