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How to adjust clutch on a 2011 victory crossroads

General clutch adjustment and amount of free play cable or lever should have

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2712 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch cable adjusters

Bowden cables like your clutch cable work on the law of the lever. Think of lifting up a heavy weight hanging on a rope using a lever balanced on a fulcrum. The rope is in tension and the fulcrum is in compression. To adjust the point of lift you could either vary the length of the rope or adjust the height of the fulcrum. The outer sleeve of your clutch cable is made out of plastic-coated steel, square-section wire and is resistant to compression forces along its length. This outer sleeve works as your fulcrum and, because it is flexible, lets you put it where it is needed - at the end of your handlebar. The cable inner is like the rope in the lever example and resists only stretching forces. It is threaded down through that snaking fulcrum back to where control movement is needed. The cable adjusters let you fine tune the length of the fulcrum, and therefore the lift range of the inner cable.,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

rselvy
  • 83 Answers

SOURCE: clutch adjustment 2004 v-star 650

Sir,
The bike you are working on has a couple of way to adjust the clutch. Obviously the adjuster on the handlebars would be the first place but actually there is an adjustment on the other end of the cable that has a locking nut on it. You will need to loosen the nut that locks the cable and there should be another nut on the other side of the cable that you can tighten. As you tighten the nut it will take the free play out of the cable.
There is another adjustment on the inside of the clutch cover, it is on the clutch hub. The adjustment for this would be done by removing the clutch cover to access the clutch hub. On the outside of the hub there is an 12mm nut locking down a 6mm adjusting screw, the screw is adcually the first source of adjustment on initial assembly.
Let me give you the breakdown of how this works, your clutch mechanism has the hub adjustment, a ball, and a push rod that goes through the primary output shaft of the transmission. Then it goes to the actuating arm where your cable connects. The reason I'm telling you this is because often the ball in between the hub adjuster screw and the clutch push rod becomes welded to the push rod or it will actually start to come apart. When this happens your clutch adjustment goes away and you have no adjustment available through the cable or the clutch lever. Should this be your case I would recommend you take the clutch cover off, (be sure to drain the oil first), remove the six 10mm nuts securing the clutch hub, (this also holds the clutch springs in place), then you will have access to the push rod and the ball. You may have to tilt the bike over on the right side to get the push rod and ball to come out.
When you go to reassemble the clutch make sure all the adjusters are loose so you can adjust the clutch in the following sequence:

  1. Assemble the hub and secure the springs. You want to adjust the hub screw first. Gently turn the screw in until it contacts the ball, then back out the screw 1/4 turn. This prevents the ball from welding it's self to the ball and plunger.
  2. Install the clutch cover and the clutch cable all the way to the lever. You will first adjust the free play out at the base of the cable so you have maximum adjustment at the lever.
  3. Adjust the lever so you have 1/4 of free play at the lever.
This will give you a properly adjusted clutch that has lots of adjustment at both the handlebars and at the base of the cable.

Good Luck! This is a DIY job, you wont need to take the bike to the shop if you are able to do any routine maintenance. Should you have to remove the clutch cover you will need to replace the right side, (clutch cover), engine gasket. If you take it apart I would recommend replacing the ball if it has any signs or wear, it will be blotted, this is a very cheap item that can cause much grief.

Let me know if you need any further assistance.

Regards,
RSelvy

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

  • 796 Answers

SOURCE: Wire clutch adjustment

You should adjust the cable at the handlebars until it has loads of play and hardly moves the cable when you use the lever, then adjust the same cable at the gearbox end until it comes back into acceptable range with correct amount of play, then tighten locknut.
This is just taking up normal wear in the clutch. Note as guzzi clutches wear you get a clanking vibration noise from them at idle, its normal.

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: V-star 650 yahama 2009 to much clutch play

There is a clutch linkage kit you can purchase which will take the "**** " out. It is mounts between the end of the clutch cable and the transmission. I have one on my bike and love it. Easy to adjust and customizes the clutch to you.

Charles

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch Adjustment Issues / 78 Yamaha XS 650

Disconnect the clutch cable at the case then see if the there is any resistance in the clutch lever in-out movement. When the tank was remounted the cable may have gotten pinched or moved out of proper routing. If I understand correctly, prior to the frame painting the clutch was okay, but after the paint it was not, and the left and right side cases and clutch were not touched. Obviously you used the wrong brand of paint. The clutch would have been fine if you had used Krylon brand paint. Post a comment and let me know what you find.

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

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1 Answer

How to adjust the clutch on a 2003 sportster 883 custom


Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with 1/2 inch wrench, loosen the jam
nut using a 9/16 inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN remove the locknut and bolt to free the left side footrest from the footrest support and then remove the footrest and spring washer and THEN using a T-27 TORX driver, remove the four TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover exercising caution to avoid damaging or dislodging the quad ring in the primary cover. THEN slide the spring with the attached hex lockplate from the flats of the adjusting screw. THEN turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until resistance is felt THEN back off the adjusting screw 1/4 turn. THEN slide spring with hex lockplate onto the flats of the adjusting screw and if necessary, turn adjusting screw clockwise just slightly so that the lockplate slides onto the flats while also fitting within recess of the outer ramp. Replace the quad ring if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that quad ring is fully seated in the groove of the primary cover and a few well spaced drops of instant contact cement can be used to hold it in place. Using the T-27 TORX driver, install the TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12
Nm). THEN turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever freeplay, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of freeplay between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this freeplay then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. THEN align the holes in the footrest with the threaded holes in the support and spring washer and install the bolt and locknut and tighten the locknut to 96-192 in-lbs (11-22 Nm).

Aug 06, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do i adjust my clutch on my 2003 1200c sportster


Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with one half inch wrench, loosen the jam





nut using a 9/16 inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN remove the locknut and bolt to free the left side footrest from the footrest support and then remove the footrest and spring washer and THEN using a T-27 TORX driver, remove the four TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover exercising caution to avoid damaging or dislodging the quad ring in the primary cover. THEN slide the spring with the attached hex lockplate from the flats of the adjusting screw. THEN turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until resistance is felt THEN back off the adjusting screw 1/4 turn. THEN slide spring with hex lockplate onto the flats of the adjusting screw and if necessary, turn adjusting screw clockwise just slightly so that the lockplate slides onto the flats while also fitting within recess of the outer ramp. Replace the quad ring if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that quad ring is fully seated in the groove of the primary cover and a few well spaced drops of instant contact cement can be used to hold it in place. Using the T-27 TORX driver, install the TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12





Nm). THEN turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever freeplay, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of freeplay between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this freeplay then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. THEN align the holes in the footrest with the threaded holes in the support and spring washer and install the bolt and





Locknut and tighten the locknut to 96-192 in-lbs (11-22 Nm).

Jul 11, 2014 | 2003 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

Clutch adjustment


Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with 1/2 inch wrench, loosen the jam nut using a 9/16 inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN using a T-27 TORX driver, remove the five TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover (derby cover) and seal in the primary cover (unless it has a gasket as aftermarket or Screaming Eagle covers will have in which case remove the gasket). IF the screws are very tight use a spring loaded impact driver with the correct T-27 TORX bit and a suitable sized hammer to shock them loose OR heat them with a hot air gun (sometimes people also put loctite on the screw threads which then may need heat to break down this locking compound). THEN using an Allen key in, and to hold, the adjustment screw and a wrench on the locknut loosen the locknut and then turn the adjusting screw in or clockwise until resistance is felt (to take up all freeplay and lightly seat the adjuster to the clutch pushrod but no more) and then activate the clutch lever to ensure that the clutch release balls are seated in the ramps. THEN back off the adjusting screw one half to one full turn. THEN holding the Allen key and adjusting screw so neither can move anymore tighten the locknut to 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm). THEN squeeze the clutch lever to maximum limit three times, to set the ball and ramp release mechanism. THEN replace the cover seal or gasket if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that the seal is fully seated in the groove of the cover and if there is a gasket make sure it is facing the correct way i.e. with the rubber sealing surface towards the primary cover and the triangulated screw hole to the top. THEN using the T-27 TORX driver, install the five TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12Nm). THEN move to the cable adjuster and turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever freeplay, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of freeplay between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this freeplay then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. THEN align the holes in the footrest with the threaded holes in the support and spring washer and install the bolt and Locknut and tighten the locknut to 96-192 in-lbs (11-22 Nm). These cable adjuster instructions are for stock HD clutch cables as aftermarket cables will be somewhat different to adjust BUT the idea will be the same.

Jul 06, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLHRI Road King...

1 Answer

My clutch so how do i properly adjust the clutch on 07 h.d. xl 1200 sporty-youttube


Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with 1/2 inch wrench, loosen the jam nut using a 9/16 inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN remove the locknut and bolt to free the left side footrest from the footrest support and then remove the footrest and spring washer and THEN using a T-27 TORX driver, remove the four TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover exercising caution to avoid damaging or dislodging the quad ring in the primary cover. THEN slide the spring with the attached hex lockplate from the flats of the adjusting screw. THEN turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until resistance is felt THEN back off the adjusting screw 1/4 turn. THEN slide spring with hex lockplate onto the flats of the adjusting screw and if necessary, turn adjusting screw clockwise just slightly so that the lockplate slides onto the flats while also fitting within recess of the outer ramp. Replace the quad ring if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that quad ring is fully seated in the groove of the primary cover and a few well spaced drops of instant contact cement can be used to hold it in place. Using the T-27 TORX driver, install the TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12 Nm). THEN turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever freeplay, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of freeplay between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this freeplay then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. THEN align the holes in the footrest with the threaded holes in the support and spring washer and install the bolt and Locknut and tighten the locknut to 96-192 in-lbs (11-22 Nm).

Jun 28, 2014 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

Clutch is slipping


The clutch friction plates may be worn out.

The clutch adjustment is likely way out in any case. You will need to go into the inspection (derby) cover and adjust the clutch and the cable adjustment will have to be done at the same time.



Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with a one half inch wrench, loosen the jam nut using a nine sixteenths inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN using a T27 TORX driver, remove the five TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover (derby cover) and seal in the primary cover (unless it has a gasket as aftermarket or Screaming Eagle covers will have in which case remove the gasket). IF the screws are very tight use a spring loaded impact driver with the correct T-27 TORX bit and a suitable sized hammer to shock them loose OR heat them with a hot air gun (sometimes people also put Loctite on the screw threads which then may need heat to break down this locking compound). THEN using an Allen key in, and to hold, the adjustment screw and a wrench on the locknut loosen the locknut and then turn the adjusting screw in or clockwise until resistance is felt (to take up all free play and lightly seat the adjuster to the clutch push rod but no more) and then activate the clutch lever to ensure that the clutch release balls are seated in the ramps. THEN back off the adjusting screw one half to one full turn. THEN holding the Allen key and adjusting screw so neither can move anymore tighten the locknut to 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 NM). THEN squeeze the clutch lever to maximum limit three times, to set the ball and ramp release mechanism. THEN replace the cover seal or gasket if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that the seal is fully seated in the groove of the cover and if there is a gasket make sure it is facing the correct way i.e. with the rubber sealing surface towards the primary cover and the triangulated screw hole to the top. THEN using the T-27 TORX driver, install the five TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12Nm). THEN move to the cable adjuster and turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever free play, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of free play between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this free play then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. These cable adjuster instructions are for stock HD clutch cables as aftermarket cables will be somewhat different to adjust BUT the idea will be the same.

May 25, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail...

1 Answer

Engine shuts down when put in gear


Most likely needs a clutch cable adjustment.
Over time, the cable stretches, reducing "throw" of clutch, so it doesn't fully disengage.
Where the clutch cable meets the clutch lever is an adjuster.
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2011-yamaha-wr250f-wr250fa-handle-switch-lever/o/m144254sch681730
Items # 5 & 6
Adjust until you have about 1/16 - 1/8" free play.

Aug 13, 2013 | 2011 Yamaha WR250F

2 Answers

How to adjust a clutch on a2005hd fatboy?


Take all the play off clutch lever using adjusting nuts under rubber boot on clutch cable remove derby cover on primary cover use allen wrench to hold push rod while loosing lock nut turn allen wrench clock wise on push rod until it just stops do not apply pressure you will bend push rod.then turn counter clock wise about half turn hold with allen wrench tighten lock nut . Adjust nuts on cable until; 1/8 inch play on clutch lever should be good to go .

Mar 23, 2011 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat...

1 Answer

83 1000 sporster clutch adjustment xlh


Loosen clutch cable adjuster locknut and the front of the outer primary cover and turn the cable adjuster inwards until a large amount of free play at the hand lever on the handlebar is recognized.

Remove the clutch adjuster access plug, Loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the screw inwards until it becomes harder to turn (starts to release the clutch) and continue turning 2 more turns to be sure clutch is disengaged.

Adjust all the free play out of the clutch cable by turning the cable adjuster in the front of the outer primary outwards. Do not put any tension on the cable, just adjust all the freeplay out of the cable and tighten locknut on the primary cover.

Now, Back off the adjuster screw at the release mechanism until the clutch is engaged and the screw turns freely. Then turn inwards until it just bumps and then back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Locknut the locknut down and install the access plug. There should be about a 1/16" free play at the hand lever.

good Luck
Steve

Aug 28, 2010 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

I need to fit a clutch cable to my kawasaki z1b900 i need step by step instructions please


To remove the old cable first shorten the mid-cable adjuster to give as much free play as possible. If you need more free play screw in the adjuster at the clutch lever as much as possible and line up the slots so you can disconnect the cable from the clutch lever. Then remove the shift lever, and possibly the left footrest if needed to remove the front sprocket cover. Remove the cotter pin and disconnect the cable from the clutch release lever. Make a note of the routing of the old cable so you can replace it. Install the new cable with a new cotter pin at the lower end first, and route it the same as the old cable. To adjust the new cable, shorten the mid-cable adjuster as much as possible. At the clutch lever, turn the adjuster in and leave about 1/4" of threads showing between the locknut and the lever body. With the front sprocket cover still off, loosen the locknut on the clutch release lever and back the screw 3 or 4 turns. Turn the clutch adjusting screw in until it becomes hard to turn and then back it off 1/2 of a turn and tighten the locknut. Now lenghten the mid-cable adjuster until there is no free play and tighten the locknuts. Check that the lower end of the cable is fully seated in it's socket. At the clutch lever, turn the adjuster in so you have 1/16" free play, and tighten the locknut. Replace the front sproket cover and the shift lever and footrest.

Dec 23, 2009 | 1975 kawasaki Z1B

1 Answer

Clutch adjustment on 2002 ninja 250


Your owners manual has the exact procedure listed in it-but here goes- you need to know how much play is at the lever on the handlebar. If it is excessive then the cable must be tightened up. The way you take out excessive play is to loosen the big round thing (the adjuster stop) and turn the smaller round thing (the adjuster) toward the front fender. If after you have adjusted the adjuster and retightened the stop you still have too much play at the lever, then you must adjust the cable down onthe lower right side engine case. You do that by turning the cable adjuster (at the lever) all the way back in toward the lever, you wan the full amount of play that there can be, so you take out the correct amount of slack down below. After turning the cable adjuster all the way in, next take your wrenches and go to the right side of the bike and look for the clutch cable coming down and across the lower outter engine case. It will be a big black cable having 2 "nuts" and runs thru a piece of metal on the top of the outter engine case. first loosen the stop nut, then tighten the adjuster nut in toward the back of the bike, keeping an eye on the lever at the handlebar. When you see the slack taken up, stop. Test the lever for suitable play (about 1/4" total at the lever ball end). When you have achieved the suitable amount of play, tighten the stopper nut and retest the handlebar lever. You make major changes down at engine level, you make minor adjustments using your cable adjusters at the lever.

May 03, 2009 | 2008 kawasaki Ninja 250R

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