Question about Victory V 92 C Motorcycles
General clutch adjustment and amount of free play cable or lever should have
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Clutch cable adjusters
Bowden cables like your clutch cable work on the law of the lever. Think of lifting up a heavy weight hanging on a rope using a lever balanced on a fulcrum. The rope is in tension and the fulcrum is in compression. To adjust the point of lift you could either vary the length of the rope or adjust the height of the fulcrum. The outer sleeve of your clutch cable is made out of plastic-coated steel, square-section wire and is resistant to compression forces along its length. This outer sleeve works as your fulcrum and, because it is flexible, lets you put it where it is needed - at the end of your handlebar. The cable inner is like the rope in the lever example and resists only stretching forces. It is threaded down through that snaking fulcrum back to where control movement is needed. The cable adjusters let you fine tune the length of the fulcrum, and therefore the lift range of the inner cable.,,,
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
The bike you are working on has a couple of way to adjust the clutch. Obviously the adjuster on the handlebars would be the first place but actually there is an adjustment on the other end of the cable that has a locking nut on it. You will need to loosen the nut that locks the cable and there should be another nut on the other side of the cable that you can tighten. As you tighten the nut it will take the free play out of the cable.
There is another adjustment on the inside of the clutch cover, it is on the clutch hub. The adjustment for this would be done by removing the clutch cover to access the clutch hub. On the outside of the hub there is an 12mm nut locking down a 6mm adjusting screw, the screw is adcually the first source of adjustment on initial assembly.
Let me give you the breakdown of how this works, your clutch mechanism has the hub adjustment, a ball, and a push rod that goes through the primary output shaft of the transmission. Then it goes to the actuating arm where your cable connects. The reason I'm telling you this is because often the ball in between the hub adjuster screw and the clutch push rod becomes welded to the push rod or it will actually start to come apart. When this happens your clutch adjustment goes away and you have no adjustment available through the cable or the clutch lever. Should this be your case I would recommend you take the clutch cover off, (be sure to drain the oil first), remove the six 10mm nuts securing the clutch hub, (this also holds the clutch springs in place), then you will have access to the push rod and the ball. You may have to tilt the bike over on the right side to get the push rod and ball to come out.
When you go to reassemble the clutch make sure all the adjusters are loose so you can adjust the clutch in the following sequence:
Good Luck! This is a DIY job, you wont need to take the bike to the shop if you are able to do any routine maintenance. Should you have to remove the clutch cover you will need to replace the right side, (clutch cover), engine gasket. If you take it apart I would recommend replacing the ball if it has any signs or wear, it will be blotted, this is a very cheap item that can cause much grief.
Let me know if you need any further assistance.
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
SOURCE: Wire clutch adjustment
You should adjust the cable at the handlebars until it has loads of play and hardly moves the cable when you use the lever, then adjust the same cable at the gearbox end until it comes back into acceptable range with correct amount of play, then tighten locknut.
This is just taking up normal wear in the clutch. Note as guzzi clutches wear you get a clanking vibration noise from them at idle, its normal.
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
There is a clutch linkage kit you can purchase which will take the "**** " out. It is mounts between the end of the clutch cable and the transmission. I have one on my bike and love it. Easy to adjust and customizes the clutch to you.
Posted on Jan 31, 2009
Disconnect the clutch cable at the case then see if the there is any resistance in the clutch lever in-out movement. When the tank was remounted the cable may have gotten pinched or moved out of proper routing. If I understand correctly, prior to the frame painting the clutch was okay, but after the paint it was not, and the left and right side cases and clutch were not touched. Obviously you used the wrong brand of paint. The clutch would have been fine if you had used Krylon brand paint. Post a comment and let me know what you find.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
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