Question about 2008 Yamaha YZF-R1
If I Close throttle engine stops. Idle's fine once engine warmed up. genuine 8000km with Yoshimura trc 3/4 exhaust installed. STD air filter
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous the carburetor throttle shaft wheel has two cables the cable closest to the right side of the bike is the throttle cable and the one closest to the left side is the idle cable. Right about the middle between the two is the idle adjustment bolt it faces out towards the air filter end of the carb . The engine should be at operating temperature with the enrichener off to set the idle between 950-1050 rpm. Turn the idle adjustment bolt clockwise to increases idle speed and counterclockwise to decrease idle speed. If you have access to your air fuel mixture bolt you may adjust it as well if not there is a video below on how to gain access, make sure you start with clean or new spark plugs. Gently turn the air fuel mixture bolt clockwise until it starts to bottom out "STOP" do not over tighten as it will damage the taper on the end, now back it out 2 full turns to establish a starting point start the engine and check the idle rpm's and adjust the idle adjustment bolt accordingly for 950-1050 rpm if necessary, adjust the air fuel mixture bolt 1/4 turn at a time and let the engine settle for about 10 seconds, clockwise for a leaner mixture and counterclockwise for a richer mixture you are seeking the highest rpm your air fuel mixture bolt can acquire without going past 3 full turns from bottom then readjusting the idle adjustment bolt back down to 950-1050 rpm If you can not detect any rpm change and can not stall the engine by turning the air-fuel mixture bolt all the way in then your pilot/low-speed jet is too big. Final adjustment should be made with a clean air filter mounted to the carburetor. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
07 r6 rough idle then stalls on cold start
OEM parts for Yamaha
Posted on Aug 24, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You need to oil your cables first....They make a gadget to help you do this...it clamps around the end of the cable, and you spray oil into a provided hole for a spray nozzle tube...Then see if the cables are unstuck by turning the throttle grip back and forth for awhile....start it and see if that helped....if not you may need to replace the cable(s)...I doubt that the slide in the carb is hanging up...or valve.If this doesn't work notify me.
Posted on May 10, 2009
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
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Posted on Jun 13, 2009
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Posted on Mar 09, 2010
It sounds to me that your carbs might be a little gunked up - you mentioned the gas may have been old, so it's possible that the smaller (idle) jets are slightly plugged up. Fresh fuel might do the trick and/or you could try using a fuel system cleaner and water remover. This problem might 'solve itself' with a little time.
As far as the backfire - this might be either from the carb issue or it could be related to that rattle you mentioned - you could have a loose connection at or near the head - this can **** air and cause a backfire.
I hope this helped!
Posted on Jun 10, 2010
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