Question about 2008 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Bike wont idle when cold, have to open throttle to keep running.

If I Close throttle engine stops. Idle's fine once engine warmed up. genuine 8000km with Yoshimura trc 3/4 exhaust installed. STD air filter

Posted by Anonymous on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Top Expert:

    An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

  • Yamaha Master
  • 40,748 Answers

Hi, Anonymous the carburetor throttle shaft wheel has two cables the cable closest to the right side of the bike is the throttle cable and the one closest to the left side is the idle cable. Right about the middle between the two is the idle adjustment bolt it faces out towards the air filter end of the carb . The engine should be at operating temperature with the enrichener off to set the idle between 950-1050 rpm. Turn the idle adjustment bolt clockwise to increases idle speed and counterclockwise to decrease idle speed. If you have access to your air fuel mixture bolt you may adjust it as well if not there is a video below on how to gain access, make sure you start with clean or new spark plugs. Gently turn the air fuel mixture bolt clockwise until it starts to bottom out "STOP" do not over tighten as it will damage the taper on the end, now back it out 2 full turns to establish a starting point start the engine and check the idle rpm's and adjust the idle adjustment bolt accordingly for 950-1050 rpm if necessary, adjust the air fuel mixture bolt 1/4 turn at a time and let the engine settle for about 10 seconds, clockwise for a leaner mixture and counterclockwise for a richer mixture you are seeking the highest rpm your air fuel mixture bolt can acquire without going past 3 full turns from bottom then readjusting the idle adjustment bolt back down to 950-1050 rpm If you can not detect any rpm change and can not stall the engine by turning the air-fuel mixture bolt all the way in then your pilot/low-speed jet is too big. Final adjustment should be made with a clean air filter mounted to the carburetor. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/102-00-01-r1-mechanical-help/178565-wont-idle.html
07 r6 rough idle then stalls on cold start
http://www.lethaladrenalinrydaz.com/index.php/service-manuals/finish/3-service-manuals/6-2007-2008-yamaha-r1-service-manual/0
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Posted on Aug 24, 2016

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: hesitation problems 2003 yamaha wr 450 f

sounds like a jetting issue. change the main jets starting from the largest one you own and work your way down.

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

num1wrench
  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: bike idles, but with a little throttle it jumps to high rev and wont come back down to idle

You need to oil your cables first....They make a gadget to help you do this...it clamps around the end of the cable, and you spray oil into a provided hole for a spray nozzle tube...Then see if the cables are unstuck by turning the throttle grip back and forth for awhile....start it and see if that helped....if not you may need to replace the cable(s)...I doubt that the slide in the carb is hanging up...or valve.If this doesn't work notify me.

Posted on May 10, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: My XV125 will only run on tick-over until warm....

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the
carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 yamaha straoliner, engine code 37 comes up

Displayed Fault Codes For The ‘Liners

  • 12 - Crankshaft Position Sensor <<Dead Engine>>
  • 13 - Cyl #1 Intake Air Pressure sensor (open or shorted)
  • 14 - Cyl #1 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (hose system) - Clogged or detached
  • 15 - Throttle Position Sensor (open or shorted)
  • 17 - EXUP Servo Motor Ckt. (open or shorted)
  • 18 - EXUP Motor Locked Up – Frozen
  • 19 - Blue/Black ECU wire broken or disconnected <<Dead Engine>>
  • 22 - Air Temp Sensor (in headlight) (open or shorted)
  • 24 - O2 Sensor – No Normal Signal Received
  • 25 - Cyl #2 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (open or shorted)
  • 26 - Cyl #2 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (hose system) - Clogged or detached
  • 28 - Engine Temp. Sensor (open or shorted)
  • 30 - Lean Angle Sensor Latched Up (Bike Laid Down) <<Dead Engine>>
  • 33 - Cyl #1 L. or R. Faulty Ignition Coil << May Run >>
  • 34 - Cyl #2 L. or R. Faulty Ignition Coil << May Run >>
  • 35 - Cyl #1 L. or R. Faulty Ignition coil << May Run >>
  • 36 - Cyl #2 L. or R. Faulty Ignition Coil << May Run >>
  • 37 - ESC Valve Stuck Open (Engine Speed Control / High Idle Speed)
  • 41 - Lean Angle Sensor (open or shorted) <<Dead Engine>>
  • 42 - Speed Sensor – No Normal Signals Received OR Neutral Switch (open or shorted)
  • 43 - Fuel System Voltage (ECU Unable to Monitor Batt. Voltage)
  • 44 - Error In Writing Amount Of CO Adjustment To EEPROM
  • 46 - Voltage To F.I. System Not Normal
  • 50 - ECU Internal Failure – Memory Check <<Dead Engine>>
  • 70 - Engine Idling Stop – After 20 Minutes Of Idling

Posted on Mar 09, 2010

mxtras
  • 194 Answers

SOURCE: Vstar 1100 idling rough and backfiring letting off the throttle

It sounds to me that your carbs might be a little gunked up - you mentioned the gas may have been old, so it's possible that the smaller (idle) jets are slightly plugged up. Fresh fuel might do the trick and/or you could try using a fuel system cleaner and water remover. This problem might 'solve itself' with a little time.

As far as the backfire - this might be either from the carb issue or it could be related to that rattle you mentioned - you could have a loose connection at or near the head - this can **** air and cause a backfire.

I hope this helped!

Posted on Jun 10, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

2006 v star 1100 classic w/ vance + hines slip on exhaust. I get popping at idle and decel (i'm thinking it just needs to be rejetted). The big problem, is when the bike has already warmed up (at least 5...


The popping at idle and deceleration (when the throttle is in the idle position) could be a lean mixture at idle.
A lean mixture sitting at idle for a long light would cause the engine to run hot.
Also, as the engine reaches operating temperatures, the idle will pick up.

Oct 08, 2013 | Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic Motorcycles

1 Answer

Engine dies idle wont start


Hi Anonymous, for more information about your question please visit the website below. Good luck and have nice day.
Harley Davidson Magneti Marelli Fuel Injection Settings

Aug 16, 2013 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

Recently purchased a sportster 1200 xl low rider 06 plate. Which is great in every way apart from town use, I find that once the engine has got warm I am having to continually blip the throttle to stop it...


Regrettably, it is a "norm" for an H-D Sportster but it's fixable. The engine is jetted very lean in order to meet EPA emission standards. The lean mixture is what causes the spitting back through the carburetor and poor idle qualities of the engine. You can improve the low speed and idling characteristics of your engine by going up one size on the low speed jet and readjusting the idle mixture. If you can do this work yourself, let me know and I'll give you the instructions on how to do it. If not, take your bike to a performance oriented shop and talk to them about it. If they have a dynometer and an exhaust gas analyzer, they can fine tune your bike to where it runs like it should.

Good Luck & Ride Safe
Steve

Sep 10, 2011 | 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200L Sportster...

1 Answer

I HAVE A 2006 HARLEY WIDE GLIDE, I FIRST START THE BIKE COLD AND LET IT IDLE FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES OR UNTIL THE FINS ARE WARM, THEN I TAKE OFF MEDIUM SPEED AND IT FLUTTERS AND PUFFS, BUT AFTER IT'S WARM...


You're running the bike too long with the "choke" or enricher on. Five minutes is way too long. The enricher circuit is very rich and it will foul your plugs if you allow it to run too long. Use the enricher to start the engine and keep it running just until you can keep the engine running with the throttle grip. Then, use the throttle tension knob beneath the throttle grip to lock the throttle to a high idle until the engine warms up.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 19, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide...

1 Answer

Idle speed around 2000 rpm, 1st ride of the year , had this issue. I followed my Manual info and adjusted Cold and Hot adjustments. When restarted the idle was close to normal, but after a minute or 2...


Adjust the idle speed ONLY when the engine is at full operating temp. It should be idled at about 1000 RPM. It will probably be too low when cold and you may have to use the throttle control to keep the engine running until it gets completely warmed up. On the carburetor equipped engines, you cannot adjust the bike where it will idle cold and not be too high when it gets hot. The only way you can get this is with fuel injected models.

Good Luck
Steve

May 02, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide...

1 Answer

MY 2006 HD FLHX IDLES GOOD COLD. WHEN WARMED UP, IT WANTS TO DIE DURING A STOP SO I HAVE TO GRAB THE CLUTCH AND REV UP THE MOTOR TO KEEP IT FROM SHUTTING OFF. ONCE I GET GOING IT RUNS FINE. WHAT COULD BE...


If your bike is carb equipped, remove the air filter cover and look at the top right of your carb. You'll see the idle speed stop screw there. Turn the screw slighly clockwise to increase the idle speed of the engine. If you bike is equipped with fuel injection, you'll have to take your bike to a dealer or independent shop that has the ability to make changes to the ECM.

Good Luck
STeve

Feb 06, 2011 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

1 Answer

Bike keeps stalling.at first start up is normal choke out runs ok until it gets about warm up time to push in choke then it dies.will not start back up unless ing. And run switch are reset. Does not want...


Ok, Never use the enricher anymore than you have to. It's way to rich on every CV carb I've ever seen. It will foul your plugs. I start my bike with the enricher on but as soon as I can keep the bike running at a fast idle with the throttle tension screw on the bottom of the throttle grip, I set the screw to hold the idle at about 1500 RPM or so until the engine is completely warm on the top end. When the rocker boxes start to feel a bit warm, I'm ready.

Now, when Harley came out with the Twin Cam, I quit working on them. I work only on the older models, Evo powered and older. The reason is that Harley went to electronic engine control modules. This sounds a lot like what you've got.

To cure your idles problems, once you get your engine to full operating temp, set the idle speed using the throttle stop screw at the carb. Take the air cleaner outer cover off and you should be able to see the screw at the top front of the carb. Clockwise speeds the idle up. Now, the engine is not going to idle correctly until it is completely warmed up. That usually takes at least five miles of riding or so. Until then, you must keep the idle set with the throttle grip.

The alternative to this is a fuel injection system. And, you only think you have problems now. Read some of the problems those people have on this forum. I'll keep my '94 FXDWG.

Good Luck
steve

Sep 29, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard

1 Answer

IDLE ENGINE SPEED RACING WHEN STOPPED


The idle speed is controlled via a servo motor and the engine management computer. It will idle fast when the engine is cold and first started.

If the idle speed is much higher than 1000RPM when the engine is warm, I would check for sticking throttle cables especially if you have added bar backs or bar risers. Check the throttle twist grip to make sure it is free and snaps back when released. These sometimes get sticky especially if the bike was dropped or dirt has accumulated under the throttle tube. Usually a high idle on a K1200RS is caused by some mechanical problem with the throttle or cruise control (if your bike has cruise)

Hope this helps

Aug 25, 2010 | 2005 BMW K 1200 RS

1 Answer

Bike wont kick start or idle , it will coast


first drain the carby, then set your air mixture screw 2 turns out, from the fully turned in position. The starting proceedure is as follows, when the engine is COLD, turn on fuel, pull on the choke fully, and kick the engine over. DO NOT use any throttle, when the engine is cold, and the choke is on. Remember Choke on, NO throttle.
When warm, no choke, and a little throttle when kicking.

May 12, 2010 | 2003 kawasaki KX 125

1 Answer

Have a 1989 Honda Accord LX and my idle after warmed up, every time I come to a stop my car dies. I've changed plugs, set idle speed a number of times, it will run good for a few days and then it's right...


If you can keep the engine running with your foot on the gas at a stop it is likely to be the Idle control valve. Older Hondas' have 2 valves. fast idle control (which is prone to cause fast, or surging idle due to vacuum leakage) and the Idle control that takes over from the cold idle control once warmed up. They are located at the throttle butterfly assembly.

Jul 26, 2008 | 1992 Honda Accord

Not finding what you are looking for?
2008 Yamaha YZF-R1 Logo

32 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Yamaha Experts

dhnguyen

Level 2 Expert

281 Answers

Steve Sweetleaf
Steve Sweetleaf

Level 3 Expert

1144 Answers

Tony

Level 3 Expert

2600 Answers

Are you a Yamaha Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...