Question about 2006 kawasaki KSR 110

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My kawasaki ksr is not idling, i should keep in twisting the the grip to keep the engine running

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: kawasaki drifter 1500 engine does not stay

You don't mention which intake you have but you probably DO know that this motorcycle is Fuel Injected.
If you're using the stock intake, make sure the air filter is clean.
I'd also -highly- recommend that you clean the throttle bodies near where the butterflies are located. These are known to carbon up and the little ring of carbon around them impedes airflow.
Next (again if it's a stock intake setup) get yourself a can of Sea Foam and introfuce it into each throttle body per the instructions on the can.
I use a syringe and fire 10cc's directly into each TB, shut it off and let it sit for a ferw minutes.
Seafoam in the tank will help clean your injectors as well.
I always use it in higher concentrations then called for and the bikes always resond well to this treatment. Fact is, the bike would run just fine with only the seafoam in the tank,
Are you running an aftermarket FI controller?
These can be adjusted as well.
I own a 2005 Drifter 1500 and an 06 1500 Classic with 24000 and 51000 miles on them respectively. FINE MOTORCYCLES.
Rok.

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

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ollie reece
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SOURCE: 2006 kawasaki 750 vulcan will not idle , will idle with choke

ok buddy on the carb will be some sort of screw and idle screw turn this in 1/4 of a turn with the machine running until it idles at 1000rpm also the choke will stall the engine when warm the choke is only for cold starts get back to me more info or problems f4d68ca.jpg

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

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I have a 99 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 the throttle is beyond hard to twist and give gas I lubricated the the cab?Ex after taking g it apart at grips but no prevail can anyone help me with this problem?


When you disconnect the throttle cable from the hand grip control can you move it freely? If not then the cable is either broken inside or something has jammed it inside the sleeve preventing it from moving. If so I would replace the throttle cable.

If the cable moves fine when not connected to the grip then you installed it wrong somehow. Take it all apart and reinstall.

Apr 14, 2017 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

Broke a throttle cable - can't see how to re-attach the new cable to the twist grip.


You have not listed your model.
Generally, remove two or three screws holding the right hand control module together. Remove old cable, install new cable in housing, and cable end in throttle tube. Reassemble.

Oct 06, 2015 | 1995 kawasaki KLE 500

1 Answer

How do i replace grips on 2009 electra glide ultra classic


For twist grip equipped motorcycles to remove the throttle or right side grip remove the upper and lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar. (To remove the throttle grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release index pins in grip from receptacle in seal cap of twist
grip sensor.)

With throttle cables, to remove the throttle or right side grip slide the rubber boot off of each cable adjuster, loosen the jam nut on each adjuster, turn the adjusters in the direction that will shorten the cable housings to their minimum lengths. THEN remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing, unhook the ferrules and cables from the throttle control grip and the lower housing, (remove friction spring, throttle friction screw and spring from the lower housing only if necessary), (only if and as necessary mark the position of the master cylinder assembly forward position and split line on the handle bars) (to be safe squeeze the front brake lever and place a 5-32 inch thick cardboard insert between brake lever and lever bracket and then release brake lever to hold the lever in this place to protect the brake switch from damage if the switch housing and the master cylinder get separated) (and only if and as necessary, loosen the two perch screws) move the lower switch housing as necessary and remove the grip.

To install the throttle grip apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and the inside surface of the upper and lower housings, (if removed, install the spring, throttle friction screw and friction spring in the lower housing) (and, if removed, attach the cable assemblies to the lower housing), (throttle control cable has a 5-16 inch fitting end and is positioned to the front of the lower housing. and the idle control cable has a 1-4 inch fitting end and is positioned to rear of lower housing. Install the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar, position the lower housing onto the right handlebar, engaging the lower housing with the throttle control grip, position the ferrules over the cable ball ends, seat the ferrules (with the cables attached) into their respective notches of the throttle control grip, install the upper housing over the right side handlebar and secure it to the lower housing with the appropriate two screws and hand tighten them, then align the brake master cylinder and perch assembly with the marks made prior to loosening them, and beginning with top screw, tighten the two screws to 108-132 inch lbs using a T27 TORX drive head and then tighten the upper and lower housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs. THEN point the front wheel straight ahead and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, adjust the throttle and idle cables by turning the adjuster in the direction that will lengthen the cables. Gently twist the throttle control grip to the fully open throttle position (fully counterclockwise) and hold it in this position and turn the throttle control cable adjuster counterclockwise until the throttle cam on the induction module (or carb) contacts the throttle cam stop, release the throttle control grip and turn the adjuster counterclockwise an additional 1-2 to 1 turn and tighten the jam nut on the throttle control cable adjuster. THEN turn the handlebars fully to the right and turn the adjuster on the idle control cable counterclockwise to lengthen the sleeve until the end of the cable housing just touches the spring within the cable guide. NOW check the adjustment by, with the throttle friction screw loosened, twisting and releasing the throttle control grip two or three times. The induction module throttle wheel must return to the idle position each time the throttle grip is released. If the throttle does not return to idle, turn the idle adjuster, shortening the cable sleeve until the correct adjustment is obtained, tighten the jam nut and slide the rubber boots over each cable adjuster. NEXT start the engine and with it idling turn the handlebars through their full range of travel and if the engine speed changes at all during this maneuver, adjust the control cables according to the foregoing procedure so that there is no change in the idle speed when the handlebars are rotated through their entire range of travel.


To remove the clutch or left side grip remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing. Mark the forward position and clutch perch split line on the handlebars and then as necessary loosen the two clutch perch screws and move it out of the way so that you can access the grip end. If you want to save the grip take a small screwdriver with about an eight inch length and insert it into the grip, wiggling it to loosen the glue somewhat and then spray some brake kleen into the space under the grip where the screwdriver blade is inserted and wiggle and twist the screwdriver around to loosen the rest of the grip glue and pull the grip off. Sand down the handle bar area where the grip will rest and apply grip cement to the area and slip the grip on. If the left hand grip is patterned, align it with the pattern on the right hand grip with the throttle in the fully closed position, immediately push the grip completely onto the end of handlebar using a twisting motion. Do not hesitate when installing the grip or the adhesive may dry before installation is complete. Allow 6 to 8 hours to elapse at 70 degrees F to allow the adhesive to fully cure. If a newer non-glue grip is being installed slip it on with the flats properly oriented to fit with the switch housing halves when they are installed. Install the switch housing halves and lightly tighten the two screws and then orient the clutch perch to the previously made alignment marks and beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 108 - 132 inch lbs using a T27 drive head and then tighten the switch housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs.

Sep 20, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

I want to change the handlebars on my 09 road king. How does the throttle sensor come out?


TWIST GRIP SENSOR 4.10


REMOVAL

Remove the left side saddlebag, remove the left side cover, remove the main fuse, (Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing the 5/32 inch (4.0 mm) cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removal without the insert may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch. Use the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap if the cardboard insert is not available.), place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket, remove the upper and the lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing, remove the lower clamp screw with its flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar (a light tug may be necessary to release the index pins in the grip from their receptacle in the twist grip sensor seal cap), if present, pull the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit from the holes in the handlebar. FOR FLHR/C: remove the headlamp and the handlebar clamp shroud, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud on the fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and disconnect it, FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U remove the outer fairing, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud at the top of the right fairing support brace (inboard side) and disconnect it, FOR FLTR remove the outer fairing and bezel and disconnect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black). (Note that the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if the twist grip sensor is pulled too strongly and a damaged latch will prevent a positive pin and socket housing engagement and also since the connector is not serviceable, any damage requires replacement of the twist grip sensor jumper harness. THEN gently pull the twist grip sensor out of handlebar only as far as necessary to access the green twist grip sensor connector. FOR BEST RESULTS straighten out the conduit on the Molex connector end of the jumper harness and feed it through the slot at the front of the handlebar while pulling it and if the harness sticks inside handlebar while pulling on the twist grip sensor, pull the Molex connector end to retract the harness somewhat and then try again gently working the harness back and forth in this manner until the twist grip sensor connector is accessible. (Note again, that if the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if pried and that a damaged latch will prevent positive pin and socket housings engagement and that since the connector is not serviceable, any damage will require twist grip sensor jumper harness replacement). THEN gently insert a small flat blade screwdriver between the pin and socket housings and when the bottom edge of the latch is engaged separate the housings. (Do not pivot or rotate the screwdriver after insertion or damage to the pin housing will occur), remove the twist grip sensor.


INSTALLATION

(Take note that each twist grip sensor contains the terminals for installation of a heated throttle grip available through P&A and that while the seal cap protects the terminals from dirt and moisture it also serves as a retention device for installation of the throttle grip.)


Verify that seal cap is installed at end of the twist grip sensor. If the seal cap is not present, proceed by seeing if the seal cap is engaged onto the index pins inside the throttle grip and if so use a stiff piece of mechanics wire to lasso seal cap and pull it free of the index pins. If it is missing or damaged get a new one. THEN check the condition of the O-ring on the seal cap and because the O-ring is not sold separately a new seal cap will be required if the O-ring needs to be replaced. Install the seal cap engaging the legs in the slots at the end of the twist grip sensor. For best results try installing one leg first and depressing the second leg slightly with a small flat blade screwdriver push down on the seal cap until it is fully installed. THEN connect the green twist grip sensor connector and gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the twist grip sensor into the handlebar. THEN fit the index tabs on the twist grip sensor into the slots in the handlebar noting that one index tab and slot are smaller than the others to prevent improper assembly. THEN slide the throttle grip over the end of the handlebar rotate the grip to verify that the internal splines are engaged with the splines on the twist grip sensor. (Take note now that it is not necessary to hold the throttle grip onto the handlebar because the index pins in the grip engage the receptacle in the seal cap of the twist grip sensor preventing the grip from sliding off). THEN position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle grip so the ribs at the end of the throttle grip engage the slot in the lower switch housing. THEN position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and the lower switch housing, start the upper and lower switch housing screws but do not tighten them at this point, verify that the wire harness conduit runs in the depression at bottom of handlebar, put the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket, align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and start the lower screw with its flat washer, position it for rider comfort but do not pull the switch housings so far inboard as to cause the throttle grip to bind or drag on the handlebar and rotate the throttle grip to verify that it freely returns to the idle position. THEN starting with the top screw tighten the handlebar clamp screws to 72-80 in-lbs (8-9 Nm) always tightening the lower switch housing screw first, so that any gap between the upper and lower housings is at the front of the switch assembly. THEN tighten the lower and upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4-5 Nm), remove the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket and FOR FLHR/C connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install it on its T-stud on fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and install the handlebar clamp shroud and headlamp. FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U draw the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and conduit forward to the front of the upper fork bracket, and then route it under the right radio support bracket to the area behind the fairing support brace, connect the connector and install it on its T-stud at top of fairing support brace (inboard side) and install the outer fairing. FOR FLTR connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install the outer fairing and bezel. THEN, if present, install the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit into the holes in the handlebar install the main fuse, install the left side cover and install the left side saddlebag. (NOTE that whenever a new twist grip sensor (or ECM) is installed, you must put the engine run/stop switch in the RUN position and turn the ignition/light keyswitch to IGNITION and then back to OFF four times (without starting engine), allowing at least three seconds to elapse between ignition cycles. This is done because the ECM uses the first four ignition cycles to establish the optimum idle speed and so there may be initial performance problems such as high idle or hesitation when the throttle is opened if the procedure is not followed.) THEN turn the ignition/light key switch to IGNITION and apply the brake lever to test the correct operation of the brake lamp.

TWIST GRIP SENSOR JUMPER HARNESS

Removal

Remove the twist grip sensor. Get a length of strong flexible mechanics wire of sufficient strength to pull the conduit and connector through the handlebar without breaking AND of sufficient length that the free end will not be lost in the handlebar when pulled. THEN securely attach the mechanics wire to the jumper harness inboard of the twist grip sensor connector pin housing and for best results, install the mechanics wire onto the conduit to keep it from bunching up inside of the handlebar when it is pulled. THEN gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the conduit, the connector and the mechanics wire out through the slot at the front of the handlebar and if the harness sticks at all inside of the handlebar, pull back on the twist grip sensor connector end to retract the harness slightly and then try again to gently work the harness back and forth in this manner until it is free. THEN remove the mechanics wire from the jumper harness.


Mar 29, 2012 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

1 Answer

My 1988 Kawasaki KX80 is reving up loud and it wont cut off but the throttle is not stuck.


With the engine turned off, open and close the throttle let go of the twistgrip as the slide decends to the bottom of the carb, you should here a cosmetic clang as the slide hits the bottom of the carb, make sure you have lots of free play in the addjuster on the cable at the carb end,undo the idle screw all the way allowing the slide to travel further down now start the engine and check if the engine still races if the engine stops when you let loose the twist grip, slowly addjust the idle screw till the correct tickover is obtained, if this does not correct the problem, remove the slide from the carb noteing the cutaway in the bottom of the slide, this must face to the rear away from the engine, forward facing would cause the engine to race as the cutout is to let air in to the rear, when facing front it will let exsess fuel in

Aug 30, 2011 | kawasaki GV650 Aquila GV650 Cruiser...

1 Answer

I HAVE A 2006 HARLEY WIDE GLIDE, I FIRST START THE BIKE COLD AND LET IT IDLE FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES OR UNTIL THE FINS ARE WARM, THEN I TAKE OFF MEDIUM SPEED AND IT FLUTTERS AND PUFFS, BUT AFTER IT'S WARM...


You're running the bike too long with the "choke" or enricher on. Five minutes is way too long. The enricher circuit is very rich and it will foul your plugs if you allow it to run too long. Use the enricher to start the engine and keep it running just until you can keep the engine running with the throttle grip. Then, use the throttle tension knob beneath the throttle grip to lock the throttle to a high idle until the engine warms up.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 19, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide...

1 Answer

When im riding and i shift into second and get it reving up high getting ready to shift to third i'll pull the clutch in but the engine does rev back down it keeps the high revs for like 4 seconds then...


Check that there is some free play in the throttle. When you twist the grip the first bit of movement should only be taking the slack out of the cable, in other words, you need about 1/16th of a turn of the grip before the throttle is actuated.
Also make sure the cable is routed properly - and check for any air leakage between the carburetor and the engine. With the engine running, if you spray WD-40 around the inlet manifold and it causes the idle speed to change, then there's an air leak.

Nov 09, 2009 | 2005 Honda CRF 100 F

1 Answer

I have an '86 Kawasaki ZL 600_A. I'm replacing the wiring harness for the run/off switch/starter button assembly, and I need to remove the throttle cables so the old assembly can come off. How do I get...


the best way is to lossen the adjuster nuts at the carbs and then at the throttle undo the switch gear remove the bar end pull the twist grip by pulling it off the bar with the swtich grear then remove the nipples from the twist grip then remove the cables from the switch gear then refit in reverse and adust the cables should have about 3 to 5 mm of freeplay hope this helps

Oct 29, 2009 | 1986 kawasaki ZL 900 A2 Eliminator

1 Answer

2006 kawasaki 750 vulcan will not idle , will idle with choke


ok buddy on the carb will be some sort of screw and idle screw turn this in 1/4 of a turn with the machine running until it idles at 1000rpm also the choke will stall the engine when warm the choke is only for cold starts get back to me more info or problems f4d68ca.jpg

Sep 24, 2009 | 1992 kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan

1 Answer

I have a Kawasaki Mule 3000. It is hard to keep


take the spring off the screw and use teflon tape so you can adjust the screw further

Sep 11, 2009 | kawasaki Sport & Outdoor - Others

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