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How to remove pulsar 180 headlight

I had a small incident on my brand new bike. I ended up scratching the headlight and the plastic part around it (as well as myself). Would like to know how to disassemble this particular part so i can fix it myself. Thanks

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

sachin0161
  • 171 Answers

SOURCE: can i fit pulsar 220 s headlight in pulsar 180 ?

yes it is possible...i think you need a cat eyes model light

Posted on May 06, 2011

  • 2712 Answers

SOURCE: Gearbox not smooth in Pulsar 180

Because its one gear front and four as back so it doesnt smooth..

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: timing Adjustment issues!

If the bike runs then Top Dead Center (TDC) is not an issue. But to check piston stroke position, Remove the valve cap cover on the intake of the front cylinder. Remove both the spark plugs. Rotate the crank shaft untill the rocker arm starts to move. The piston is now starting down on the intake stroke. Rotate the crank further and the rocker arm moves in the opposite direction. The piston is now going upward on the compression stroke. Look at the marks on the flywheel. Rotate the crank untill the TDC mark lines up with the timing index mark. The front piston is now at TDC.

If your model has carbs then the backfire fix requires you to syncronize and balance the carbs.
SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both carbs. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each carb such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other carb.

With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other carb so that the slide on that carb just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both carbs begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.

BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT carb one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT carb one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

Turn the idle screw on each carb EXACTLY ONE QUARTER turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just balanced and synchronized your carbs.

Please rate this solution. Thanks sgtswampdonk!

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: what is the cost of pulsar 150 cc headlight dome?

It costs around 800.... but with fitting charges costs u around 900....

better go for a non branded which will be similar to the original costs around 400 or so... because u may not be knowing when it may gets scratches or breaks... Just think.....

Srinivas..................

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

seanpwright
  • 2030 Answers

SOURCE: I need a new carburator for pulsar 150 dtsi 2005

Once you find a dealer just simply tell them you need a new carb. they will know which ones it is

Posted on Aug 27, 2009

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I eventually figured it out myself, and it works for all of the Gateway all-in-ones with the curved bottom.

Requires small (#1) Philips screwdriver, a plastic or metal putty knife.

0- unplug everything from the system- usb devices, keyboard, power, network, etc.

1- Lay the system face down on a soft surface to prevent scratches.

2- Get a 1-inch wide putty knife from your toolbox or local hardware store. I had a metal one lying around so I used that, but a plastic one might work as well. The thinner the better. To prevent scratching the case, use a metal file or sandpaper and taper the end and round off the corners. Test by using your hand to feel around the edges of the blade.

3- Tilt the support leg down flat against the system. Slide the putty knife vertically into the "top" side of the plastic covers for each end of the support leg. These covers have molded teeth that grab onto the edge of the case. Gently pry towards the top of the system. Be patient, you will eventually see how it works and pop them out.

4- Remove the 3 screws on each bracket and set the support leg aside.

The back cover has slot openings every few inches that catch onto teeth molded into the silver bezel. I found it easier to start near the DVD-ROM drive and worked my way around to the top edge and kept going.

5- GENTLY insert the putty knife in vertically between the edge of the back cover and the silver bezel, and gently pull the putty knife handle outwards to pull the tabs away from the teeth. Once you pull the handle out about 45 degrees, gently twist to get an openings to start prying the cover off. Do not force it, just keep moving around until you get a good start.

6- After you get halfway around, it might be easier to stand the system up on edge to keep the weight of the cover from pushing down and closing up again.

Once you get an opening wide enough to see how the cover is attached, you will get the hang of it and the rest should come off quickly. Good luck.

Did I mention the keyword is GENTLY.

Good luck

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If your watch crystal is made of mineral glass, scratches cannot be easily polished out. In that case, your best solution would be to take it to a jeweler or watch repair facility to have the crystal replaced. Depending on the style of the watch, replacing a crystal can be as little as $15--or run to well over $100 for some diver's watches. If you're not comfortable with the estimate, get another one elsewhere. Crystal replacement is a high profit margin job for many jewelers. Not everyone is equally greedy.

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I'm going to give you a solution based on personal experience.

I have a 1971 FLH, 1200cc. 16" front wheel, wide glide front end. One main breaker, for all power leading from the main switch on the dash.

I would ride for exactly 8 miles, and the bike would cut off.
Nothing. Nada. Just pull over to the side of the road, and let the circuit breaker cool off. (About the length of one cigarette) Then I'm on my way again for 8 miles.

Tore the seat off, rear wheel out, dash off, headlight nacelle apart, and started checking all wiring.
Found a few breaks in some of the insulation of the wires, found where someone used tape instead of heat shrink tubing. Fixed it. Tried riding again, same thing.

Went through a few more procedures. (I am a Harley mechanic on the older ones)
Finally one day I took the headlight out again, and looked for a short. (I had narrowed it down to something to do with the headlight)

Didn't see anything apparent again. Noticed this time though, that the plastic connector to the headlight, was open on the back.
All three terminals of the headlight, that went into that plastic socket, were exposed at the back.

Having just worked on my Chevy truck, I remembered that the plastic headlight socket, is Enclosed on the back.

Went back to my bike, looked REAL close with a flashlight, and saw a 1/8th inch black mark on the triple tree. The headlight terminals are too far away to create a short?

Removed the plastic headlight socket out of my truck, put it on the Harley.

Has Never quit on me since!

[Hey, we're talking my Harley to a truck! I did get another headlight socket for the truck later!]

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3 Answers

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It costs around 800.... but with fitting charges costs u around 900....

better go for a non branded which will be similar to the original costs around 400 or so... because u may not be knowing when it may gets scratches or breaks... Just think.....

Srinivas..................

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