Question about 2007 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail Classic
I just replaced the battery and stator and the bike was running fine for awhile. Then in 6th gear the bike feels like it's doing a hard shift and the speedometer drops and comes back to original speed. Now the problem has escalated to loss of power while clutching in to stop or turn. I appreciate any assistance with troubleshooting.
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi Anonymous, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition or leaking.
3. Spark plug gap to close or to wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose connections at battery terminals,
ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor.
12. Loose or dirty ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damage intake or exhaust vale.
For a prime suspect please visit website below and good luck:
Big Twin Carb EFI DTC Intructions codes Harley Davidson Forums Harley...
Posted on May 13, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Gap your plugs to 38 thou. Check all your bulbs (one burned out will affect the rest) Take a look at all your fuses and make sure they are all ok. Otherwise you are probably looking at a wiring short which will require trouble shooting of the elctrical system. Buy your self a service manual for your bike, this will help you a lot.
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
too many variables !
Firstly check battery under load ! any battery place or auto electrician can so it usually free!
do this before replacing any thing else!
make sure all connections are clean & tight
if battery is ok get them to check the charge rate on bike! its a simple test or you can do it with a volt meter they are only cheap to buy!
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
I'm going to give you a solution based on personal experience.
I have a 1971 FLH, 1200cc. 16" front wheel, wide glide front end. One main breaker, for all power leading from the main switch on the dash.
I would ride for exactly 8 miles, and the bike would cut off.
Nothing. Nada. Just pull over to the side of the road, and let the circuit breaker cool off. (About the length of one cigarette) Then I'm on my way again for 8 miles.
Tore the seat off, rear wheel out, dash off, headlight nacelle apart, and started checking all wiring.
Found a few breaks in some of the insulation of the wires, found where someone used tape instead of heat shrink tubing. Fixed it. Tried riding again, same thing.
Went through a few more procedures. (I am a Harley mechanic on the older ones)
Finally one day I took the headlight out again, and looked for a short. (I had narrowed it down to something to do with the headlight)
Didn't see anything apparent again. Noticed this time though, that the plastic connector to the headlight, was open on the back.
All three terminals of the headlight, that went into that plastic socket, were exposed at the back.
Having just worked on my Chevy truck, I remembered that the plastic headlight socket, is Enclosed on the back.
Went back to my bike, looked REAL close with a flashlight, and saw a 1/8th inch black mark on the triple tree. The headlight terminals are too far away to create a short?
Removed the plastic headlight socket out of my truck, put it on the Harley.
Has Never quit on me since!
[Hey, we're talking my Harley to a truck! I did get another headlight socket for the truck later!]
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
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