Question about Motorcycles
My transmission wont change gears but i think im low on oil. i dont know were the hole is to check the transmission oil!!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Oil level above full line
It's quite possible that when you fill the motor you are checking the oil level shortly thereafter, i.e. within 10 minutes, or you are filling the oil and checking what the level is BEFORE starting the motor (in this case the oil has not had chance to circulate and drain back in to the sump). Once the bike stands for an extended period (a couple of hours or overnight) you will find that the oil has drained from the head of the motor, and other places, back into the sump and therefore shows at a higher level in the sight gauge.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
Drain and replace the gas with fresh.
Remove the air cleaner and spray carb cleaner into the inlet. Work your throttle a little then put everything back together and try to start it.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
Try checking the switch for your parking brake. It is the top wire in the clutch handle boot. This wire connects to your CDI box, and restricts the RPM's while the parking brake is engauged. To find out for sure, trace the wire down to the plug under the headlight assembly and disconnect it. Now try starting you machine and give it some throttle!
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
YZF600R is a carbureted model. OIL: The oil sight glass is a round window, low on the right side. Very hard to try to see when astride the bike, even if you use a mirror on an extension rod. Have a friend hold the bike level,perhaps, while you check. Oil should be sighted after the bike has been sitting for a time after riding. I suggest using a good 10W-40 regular motorcycle oil (Least expensive around here in Boston is to buy Kawasaki by the gallon at Riverside) I found the pesky 1st-to-2nd shift to be more direct with this oil than with synthetic. I had plenty of opportunity to compare the two types. GAS: No reserve, but as noted, there is a low fuel light, in the row of lights that includes the neutral light and the high beam indicator. You ought to be getting over 50 m.p.g., so you can estimate your 'range' from that. I usually fill up again around the 180 mile period. I think I've seen the low fuel light once in 6 years of ownership. OH: I suggest you treat the gas, on a regular basis, with 'marine' Stabil, not the regular stuff. I have had a 'gummy' Yamaha Virago 250 to care for, that I thought would never clear its fuel problems. Last winter ('08-'09) stored it with the marine Stabil in the tank and run for a while to get it into the carbs also. Within a few minutes of running it this spring-actually a couple weeks ago- it smoothed out and has run fine since. I believe this HAS to be as a result of the treatment of the fuel (run through the carbs before the winter storage) with this special Stabil. It was recommended by Carlo at Riverside- I'll have to remember to thank him for the advice. N.B. I always change the fuel (siphon it out, put that Stabil'ed but 'old' stuff into my car tank, refill the bikes with fresh 93 octane) each Spring.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
hello, get piston up on tdc, hold finger on spark plug hole turn engine untill finger blows off,that should be compression stroke. take screwdriver in hole make sure piston is all the way up, take timing cover off top gear, there is a v mark inside the motor , make sure gear marks and timing chain is all aligned upp, timing chaing should have a different colored link, aligned this with mark on gear-chain and the mark on the motor, it looks like a v or a point, you have to remone the top gear cover to see this, once they are all aligned it should be in time, piston has to be up all the way on compression stroke, really its pretty simple....
Posted on Feb 25, 2010
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