I had a prior problem with ring breaking, causing bore damage. I had the bore re coated by Nickosel, engine rebuilt with genuine parts and put back to original specs, after 5 hours the ring has snaped on the exhuast port side. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated as we are at a lost at what to do next, bike is running slightly rich and running on a 30 to 1 fuel mix
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the pistons are starting to bond to the cylinder walls
the rings are starting to break up
the oil ( what is left of it) is boiling off
the big ends and main bearings are starting to fail
the cause of the sound is the engine starting to disintegrate
Normally COP failure is due to moisture getting into the spark plug bore. When you install the COP's be make sure the plug boot is coated where it seals to the head with electric silicon grease prior to installing. I use the silicon grease on both ends of the plug boot, personally I just fill up both ends of the boot and also fill up the connector also. FYI don't buy those little packages at the parts counter at $2 a piece, Napa and Orelly's sales a can for $8 and it is well worth it. Since I have began coating the sealing surface of the boot and putting it in the connector I have not had any issues with failing COP's. Another thing that could cause COP's to consistently fail would be leaking injector O-rings. I'm not saying the gas is causing the moisture problem, could be but lets hope not. What you would be looking for in this case is dust that looks like it has been wet and surrounding the injector. O-rings come in a set of four and you will need two sets, one for the fuel rail and one for the head, also use silicon grease in the injector connection, I apply it to every electrical connection. Hope this helps.
any time you put a new or rebuilt head on top of a used motor you are going to get some sort of blow by. the more miles one the Rings the more blow by you will have. when you put on the rebuilt head south the new valves. you increased the compression ratio. thus making the worn rings from being able to hold back all the compression. next time at least drop the pan and put new rings in. better new pistions and hone the cylinders. best pull the block have it bored .20 over (which gives you a 2.0L ) have the crank turned. have the cams inspected for ware. and just replace old with new. yes.its more expenses in the beginning but well worth it. because look were you are now. to fix it you now have to start over with a lighter wallet
As an engine wears the ring lands on the pistons wear also. In addition to ring land wearing on the piston, the bore in the cylinder develops a wear pattern. Has the engine been rebuilt? If the pistons have worn ring lands and were re-used it may allow the rings (new or old) to twist in the grooves and catch on any ridge in the cylinder, thus breaking them.
When the engine is apart you must check for proper ring land wear. You need to consult the piston manufacturer for proper wear specs, typically around 0.006in.
If you're getting a visible amount of smoke/oil from the breather after the rebuild something is not right. The rings are not seating. I would definitely recommend boring/honing the cylinders and going with a new set of pistons/rings so you don't have to pull it apart again. A little more now can save a lot in the long-run.
It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before. ---
The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down:
Pistons and Connecting Rods
Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set.
Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge
Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced.
Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert
Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps.
Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston
Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage.
Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer
Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
Install the auxiliary/balance shaft(s)/assembly(ies).
Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.
Engine Covers and Components
Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle.
Engine Start-up and Break-in
STARTING THE ENGINE
Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.
Connect the vehicle battery.
Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle OFF.
WARNING Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.
Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
At this point any necessary checks or adjustments can be performed, such as ignition timing.
Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed.
hi,if you have run the bike low on oil,then there is every chance that you have siezed the motor,at the very least you will need to replace the piston and rings,also it is very likely that the bore has been damaged,that will also need to be repaired(it will be a nikasil coated bore)and they are easy to damage and expensive to repair.the crank will(at the very least)need to be removed and inspected,as siezing a motor will have possibly scored the crankshaft and damaged it,there is no point in putting the engine back together and running it on a damaged crank,as failure will be immenent and you will have to do it all again,sorry about this but it is going to be expensive and it makes oil very cheap insurance by comparison...hope this helps...cheers
I would recommend a leak down test to distinguish if the low compression was due to ring wear or an issue with the valves/seats...cylinders bores dont just wear out from sitting. It's very possible that the valve seals were worn allowing crankcase oil to seep into the combustion chambers, thus causeing it to smoke. Being a 3 cylinder water cooled engine it should not have an overheating issue to cause the rings to stick...unless it was neglected, and not regularly serviced, debris in the oil filter, low oil pressure.. sludge from worn out oil. A good clean air cleaner is important...bad filtration will cause premature engine wear. Install a K & N high flow filter... and your good for the life of the bike. Hope this answers your question...good luck with your bike.
There is a small diaphram on the side of the carb that simply wears out. It's rubber coated mesh and the rubber coating breaks down and it stops pumping fuel into the carb. Sometimes you can run with the choke on partially, but it will burn 10 times the amount of fuel and cause more damage to the engine itself. I think it's about a $10.00 part.