Question about 2006 Yamaha yZ 450 F
So here it is, my water pump seals on my 2006 yz450f went bad on a ride. so i bought new seals and everything and replaced them. three rides later its leaking out of the weep hole. so i buy again new seals and replace them except this time i buffed the pump shaft to clean any stuff that might be on it. within 20 minutes of riding its leaking again. what is going on?
I would reccomend replacing both water pump shaft bearings and also the shaft if there is any sign of grooving on the shaft. Without looking at a diagram i am assuming that the water side of this bikes pump is a mechanical(ceramic) seal design . Sucessful replacement of these mechanical seals can be tricky. A few tips are: be certain that all case surface areas are clean with all old seal/sealing debris removed such as with sccotch brite. So that the seal will seat and seal properly in the case. NEVER allow your dirty/oily fingertips to touch either of the ceramic pieces of the seal in the contact area. Lubricate these ceramic pieces with a standard green type of coolant only upon assembly. Always use a regular green type of coolant in the system untill you are confident of the install and then change to another type if you are going to. Be aware that it is not uncommon for the mechanical(ceramic) type of seal to weep slightly during initial break in as the two halves seat to each other. This weepage should dissappear in a short period of running time.
Posted on Dec 30, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Battery will not keep a charge.
Get a 2 amp charger and charge the battery fo 3 hours or so. While the battery is charging,check the fuses and check the wiring harness connections between the flywheel and the battery.
Start the bike and rev it up. Use a DC voltmeter to check the battery voltage while running. The voltmeter should read 14+ volts. If not then there may be a problem with the stator.
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Posted on Mar 28, 2009
It sounds like you probably need to replace the fuel filter, or you may have alot of trash in the bottom of your gas tank, possibly even water in the gas. If you can, take the tank off and clean it out well, making note if there is any trash in it, by emptying it into a bucket so you can examine it. Go ahead and replace the filter if you find any trash or water in the gas tank. If it is ok, then the next thing would be to check the fuel line for aging. Sometimes in rare cases, the hose gets old and weak and when you try to pull fuel through it, it can collapse and essential stop the gas flow, just as if you have turned the gas off, then when the suction is stopped the hose will open back up and appear to be in good shape. You can use your fingers and squeeze the line the entire length and see if it seems to feel excessively soft, if so that could also be causing your problem.
Posted on May 04, 2009
Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o'rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.
Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
you get the impeller of from removing the complete side case ( not only the water pump cover) then you can remove the water by unlock the internal water pump shaft....replace OIL SEAL
93109-11073-00 and also OIL SEAL,SD-TYPE
93102-12321-00 just to have you're mind in piece..they are so unexpensive that you d'ont wanna take any chance for 4.00 usd.....
Posted on Oct 02, 2009
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