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No fluid coming out of the rear master cylinder on my 2006 harley sportser

My bike had been sitting for a while and when I was gonna ride i had no rear brakes the resivoir was full of fluid. I tried to bleed the breaks and still no pedal. I checked to make sure I was getting fluid to the cylinder from the resivoir which I was, but i cant get fluid flow from the cylinder to the caliper. No fluid will flow through the cylinder. I took it apart and it seems to be fine cup is good spring is good rear seal good, but no fluid flow.

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  • 157 Answers

A master cylinder bore has two small holes in it. One is the supply hole the other is the bypass port. Typically master cylinder issues are created after long periods of sitting when one or both of these holes are plugged. Be sure you can visually verify with a brake cleaner spray that they are both open and clear when you dissassemble the cylinder. Also be sure to use the correct type of brake fluid and do not mix DOT 3/4 with DOT5. Begin your bleeding process at the m/cyl banjo bolt and work your way back bleeding at all the banjo bolts and the bleeder screw last. Good Luck

Posted on Dec 30, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: 04 Yamaha Yz 125- Rear brake Master cylinder

Are you bleeding it by gravity (flowing down from resevior thru caliper) or forcing the fluid up thru the caliper to the resevior. The latter will get more air out in less time. Simple cheap pump kits are available at you auto dealer and u can use it on your other vehicles.

Posted on May 14, 2009

MakisRC51
  • 408 Answers

SOURCE: Rear brake cylinder and bleeding

Relax....KTM's are delicate in this procedure.
First of all make sure that you are using DOT 5.1 brake fluid and not 4 as we use in the Japan models.
Then take the rear caliper in your hands and push the piston all the way in.Then bolt it on its position.
Bolt on the brake hose to the rear caliper tight and leave it loose on the rear master cylinder side (loose but ready to tight it on like half circle loose) and clean up the reservoir completely.
Take a syringe from a pharmacy and a piece of 3mm clear tube.
Start pushing brake fluid in the caliper's loose bleeder until you see fluid coming out fron the hose's loose end on the master cylinder.
The tight the cylinder's bolt and keep pushing fluid until you see it filling up the reservoir.
When you see the reservoir fully filled up, tight the bleeder, take out the syringe and start pressing the brake pedal 15-20 times and the last one keep it down and loose the bleeder (with a tube attached to it and to a bottle) for a sec to relieve the pressure along with any air bubbles.DON'T LIFT THE PEDAL UNTIL YOU HAVE TIGHT BACK THE BLEEDER or the system will **** air in.FIRST tight the bleeder and THEN loose the pedal.
Keep doing that until NO air comes out of the system.
While you are doing this second stage keep filling up the reservoir and do not let the master cylinder **** air in.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

bozcro
  • 867 Answers

SOURCE: Changed rear brake pads. Now, pedal never delivers

you need to bleed the brake, attach a hose into a small can of brake fluid, the other end to caliper bleed valve (5/16), its covered with a little rubber boot on the caliper. pump brake pedal, hold it down, open the valve ( turn left) flluid and air comes out, then close valve.repeat untill no more air comes out and brake pedal becomes stiff, about 10 times

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

  • 921 Answers

SOURCE: rear brake has no pedal after sitting for a long time

your brake fluid is shot ...no good, must be drained and Reserviced and bled.... use dot4 and insure all your brake lines are clean and in good shape.

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 gsxr 600 brakes lock on, new master and

Hi, If there is excessive air in your system after reassembly of master cylinder, the lever will have a spongy feeling about it and possible inconsistency or will have travel, bleeding the hydraulic system is best carried out by two people, remove the reservoir lid, top up over half and replace lightly to keep out dust, get a old glass jar, and a clear pipe that pushes down into the top of the bleeder valve, which is on top of the caliper block, and sink pipes other end into a little brake fluid in the glass, ensure there is always sufficient brake fluid in the reservoir tank, top up later if needed, use open spanner for bleeder valve, unscrew the bleeder valve one half turn and squeeze the brake lever as far as it will go, but do not release it until the bleeder valve is tightened again, repeat this a few times until a no more air bubbles come from the plastic pipe. Also, ensure all other joints are secured in this brake system, When all the bubbles disappear, close the bleeder valve, remove the pipe and install the bleeder valve dust cap. Check the fluid level in the reservoir, after the bleeding operation has been complete. Reinstall the Diaphragm, and the cap. Do not use the brake fluid drained from system as it contains minute air bubbles. There was the question of the locking pads, after the air is removed from the calipers, and there is still a prob, I might have the answer

Posted on Jul 05, 2010

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1 Answer

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"pedal all the way down, no movement of caliper"
Sounds like hydraulic problem.

Check if you have enough brake fluid.

If so, it could be a bad master cylinder.
Rear brake light switch won't work without hydraulic pressure (which also works the caliper), while front brake light switch is mechanical.

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This is unusual as I ride a 1994 model and have yet to have to rebuild the master cylinders. But, if they are leaking, it's time for a rebuild. You can buy the rebuild kits either through Harley or aftermarket. Simply disassemble the master cylinders, lightly hone the bores with a flex hone, and install the new kit. Make sure you use the correct type of brake fluid and do not mix different types of fluid. This may be what is wrong with your master cylinders now, mixed brake fluid. If it looks like someone blew their nose in your master cylinders, that's what happened. In this case, once you get the master cylinders rebuilt, you need the bleed the system throughly to clean out the calipers and hose as well.

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Your sportster is actually pretty easy to change the front sprocket on. On the right side of the bike, you'll see the rear brake master cylinder. The master cylinder must come off as well as the plate that the master cylinder sits on. To get this off, you'll have ot remove the brake pedal and the exhaust system.

Once you get the plate off, you'll need some special tools to remove and replace the front sprocket. You'll need a special socket to remove the large nut holding the sprocket on and a special device made to hold the sprocket so you can get the nut off and then back on with the proper torque.

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Starting the bike has effect on the front brakes and I doubt moving the bike does either. The problem sounds like you're using an improper procedure to bleed the brakes.

First, fill the front master cylinder reservoir with the proper type of brake fluid. Then, bleed the master cylinder. Use this EXACT procedure. Squeeze the lever and hold it. Then loosen the line from the front master cylinder and allow the pressure to bleed off. Release the brake lever. Repeat this procedure again. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during any part of this bleeding process.

Then move to the caliper bleeder valve. Squeeze and hold the brake lever, open the bleeder valve and bleed off the pressure, close the valve, release the lever and allow the master cylinder to refill. Repeat until you get a full firm brake lever. Top of the master cylinder. Wait a few minutes and test the brakes.

If you cannot get anything to work out, look in the very bottom of the master cylinder reservoir and you'll two holes. One is relatively large and the other is very small. Using a small drill bit or a strand of wire, make sure the small hole is open. I've seen trash plug this hole and the brakes not work correctly. DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF BRAKE FLUID. The correct brake fluid to use is printed on top of the reservior top.

Make sure you test the brakes before riding the bike, improper brake servicing can lead to serious injury or death.

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1 Answer

Rear brakes arent working there is no pressure in the brake pedal. started when changing pads and had fluid leak


First, you've got to repair the leak. Once the leak is repaired, you'll have to refill the master cylinder and bleed the air out of the system.

To bleed the system, you must do these steps in this particular order. Take you time, don't get in a hurry on this.

First,with the leak fixed and the system put together properly, remove the top from the master cylinder and fill it with the appropiate type of brake fluid. The correct type of fluid should be written on the top of the master cylinder. Work the rear brake pedal slowly a few times and top the master cylinder off. Lay the top of the master cylinder on top of the master cylinder to keep down any fluid splashes.

Now, depress the pedal fully and hold it. Open the bleeder valve on the caliper and allow the air to escape. Close the bleeder valve. Release the rear brake pedal. Wait few seconds and repeat the procedure exactly as I've given it to you. Check the level of the brake fluid often. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry. Continue until you get a full firm pedal.

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