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Re: buying a 1988 vfr400
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Most used 400s are ridden hard eitheras a starter bike or forced to max out playing catchup with biggerbikes. But unless abused, they tend to have longer usable life than thebigger ones. For a VFR400 (NC24), areas that would need your attention/check would be:
was it imported to Australia by Honda or is it a gray bike? If it is a gray bike, then it would most likely be a Japanese domestic market/model that has a 180 km/h (110 mph) restriction;
rear suspension - the NC24 was one of the first production bikes with Pro-Arm single-sided swingarm;
listen closely to the "whine" sound from the engine. It should sound healthy not raspy. This is specially true for VFRs because the camshaft are driven by straight cut gears. This model does not use a timing chain or timing belt.
Common areas to check:
condition/level of the engine oil. An oil change would do no harm;
brake pads (front & rear);
carbs and tank condition, A rebuilt/clean is a wise action;
sparkplug check/replacement. Note the color/condition of the ends of the plugs;
electrical system check which includes battery/terminals, major connectors (high amperage), regulator, lights, switches;
chain and sprocket. If adjusted against the stops, might be time for a replacement of the set;
fork oil seal.
Even if there are somethingsyou feel like needing work, the general judge wold be how you likeriding the bike. Your body, sense of balance and riding style woulddictate which if ever would need priority work/replacement/checkingover.
Pls post back result(s). Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.
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If you did not do this before you bought it, you need to have a thorough professional check done over the vehicle to see what mechanical issues need attention. There will be numerous items to deal with on a 1988 unless it has been meticulously maintained by previous owners which is probably not likely. In particular, the brake system, steering, suspension, engine and transmission, the electrical systems are all important to run very thorough checks on.
If it were mine, I would not be driving around in a vehicle like that without thorough mechanical checks/inspections being carried out.
Generally you don't adjust suspension on motorcycles for the height of the rider. You make suspension adjustments for the weight of a rider by making it softer or firmer.
You can lower the front by moving forks up through the triple trees and the rear by using shorter shocks. But by doing this you are changing the steering geometry and suspension travel that has been designed for your bike.
If you already know how to ride a motorcycle you are better of working out a way to mount the bike with out lowering it. If you are learning how to ride, buy or borrow another bike until you have learnt the basics.
I have seen children racing motorcycles that use blocks or have people hold them up for the start.
That is a hard question to answer. A stock 1988 will not beat a 2010. If you have motor work done and suspension set up right it might run with a new one. The technology is far superior in the new bikes. A stock new motor is far more powerful than an old bike. The suspension is where you will get alot of your speed also. The new stock suspensions are darn near race ready with minimal tweeking.
Hi there. To upgrade your old rear shock is a good idea, however very expensive. Makers like Koni, and Ohlins, will have a rear shock to fit your bike, but unless your willing to part with about $1000, then considermy second solution. Have your old rear shock re built, or re furbished, by a qualified suspension mechanic, for a fraction of the cost. It is also possible to customise, and taylor your old shocky to suit you. Example,shorten the spring?, add a spacer to stiffen it up a bit, less oil, or more oil? I would look into a rebuild first, unless, like i say, you are prepared to spend about $1000 plus. Anything you choose, will definately enhance your bike. Good luck
Jack, find a newer bike. Most dealers will not work on a bike over ten years old. Parts availability is one reason. Another is the workload in the shop and the need for the mechanics to stay current with the new models coming out yearly. If they fixed every bike that came in the service backlog would be really bad.
The KLX 300 was never a popular bike. Not many still arround. I would not buy the bike until I rode it for an hour or so. You gotta check the suspension, handling, power, shifting smoothly, shocks, forks, power valve, clutch, water pump, oil pump, radiator, electrical system, front and rear brakes, carb, rings,
when you put a cam in ust make sure its at top dead center compression with would line up the mark on the flywheel with the mark on the case.. make sure the marks on the cam gear are lned up with the head
That's a lotta miles!! My suggestion would be to take the Yukon to a reputable mechanic and pay the $50 to $100 to have him check it over. Specifically have him check the compression, suspension, transmission, clutch, (if manual), AC (if applicable), etc and then get his opinion. Good luck