My horn button has come apart, does any one know how to put it back.i have the button,a brass inner (located inside the button ) and the spring still inside the hole.
should there be a clip holding it in place
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Re: horn button mechanism
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, to my understanding the button should have a lip that would serve as stopper. The button is inserted from the inside of the base, a big portion protrudes outside while the rear portion with a lip stops against the base. Pls reference below image.
Check and perform preliminary visual or necessary inspection. Pls post back result(s). Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.
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Blowing out of what part of the carb and on what motorcycle ?
The carb floats could hoave holes in (old bikes with brass floats)
which can caus thr petrol to flood out of the overfow,
Also if the carb has been taken apart and not put back together correct, take it apart & make sure it is right.
Another reason could be you need a new float valve or valves depending on how many carbs you have, again this could just be getting blocked causing overflowing the carbs could just need a good clean, make sure you use a petrol filter on your bike if it is old and perhaps has rust inside ?
Yes, there is a fuse panel on the bike but I think that it's on the rear fender extension on that model. But, from what you are saying, it might not be the fuse. The horn is on a fused circuit with some other stuff as well. You do not have a single fuse dedicated to only the horn. Unlike a car, there isn't enough room on a motorcycle for this. The fuse that controls the horn controls other things as well and it everything else is working, then it's not the fuse. I'd test the wire at it's other end, the horn button. When you press the button, the wire to the horn goes "hot". Years ago, the wire going to the horn was "hot" all the time and when you pressed the button, you completed the circuit to ground. It was learned that any short in the horn wire would blow a fuse or discharge the battery so the design was changed. This was way back when the bikes were powered by a 6 volt system. Take the left handle switch housing apart and check the switch.
i dont know. but since its an 86 i'll take a guess that your horn is probably bad...check it with a voltmeter..hook up the red +lead to any of the two wires going to the horn then ground the other lead to a good bare frame or bolt, press the horn button..you'll see 12v when you press the button if that didn't work try the other wire...if you still dont see 12v then the horn is probably good and you have a broken wire or a bad fuse, sorry i dont know the location...but it should be with all the others like all the other bikes i"ve owned..you could just try replacing all the fuses that you see with new ones and then see if it works.
remove upper and lower ball joints and tie rod. remove backing plate. hold on to axel and pull hard and quickly. inner joint will pop out of differential. hold axel in vise .if replacing outer cv boot you must first remove inner boot. remove boot clamps first on inner boot. pull boot back out of the way. hook and remove clip on inside of cv joint outer cup about 3/16 of an inch in. pull joint apart. remove grease at end of shaft to find snap ring clip. remove clip. pull off joint and remove boot. outer cv joint does not come apart.
Inner chaincase has sprungfork plate rivited on, between which you should have a large plain washer and felt washer that are in situ before inner case is located over GB mainshft. if you have the projecting brass sleeve (bearing) this will fit inside felt/washer on assembly. Its not critical and you wont lose a lot of oil even if you dont use the above.
You never will know for sure UNTIL you take it apart.
I would start with the fuse box. If you find a bad fuse, disconnect the horn before putting in a new fuse. If a new fuse restores the power, reconnect the horn. If the fuse blows then it is a bad horn or a grounded horn wire or bad horn button switch.
Next, put a volt ohmmeter on the ignition switch to check for proper operation.
Check the wire connections inside the headlight housing to be sure the connections are clean, tight and that no wire is disconnected.
Next There may be a loose / dirty connection somewhere else on the bike. Remove the seat and gas tank to gain access to the wiring harness. Use a volt Ohmmeter. Start at the battery, then fuses and the wires connecting to the fuses. Inspect for burned wires, abraded wires, loose and/or dirty connections, bad plastic "box connectors" and loose wires.
what size bolt heads on these bolts (the bolts size chart for correct torque specs is 2mm smaller than the head of the bolt on Kaw).while the forks are still off and the end caps also still off,hold them level (up/down) and by hand (which will be easy because the caps are off to let the springs come out past the tube-but leave them in as they change the amt. of fluid goin in)push down slow to compress and bottom them out then fill till you get 100mm from inside the top of the forks tube is on the mark.then pull them back to fully extended ,put the caps CAREFULLY back on so they dont stripp the soft threads up.P.S.if this was used at a track there are 2 inexpensive brass or copper bushings inside the big tubes top and a bit lower that will get worn and let the inner fork tube **** back and fourth as it compresses in and out that causes the seals to leak again very soon because it flexes the round inner part of the fork seal to become out of round (not tight all around the tube for correct sealing) from slack and to much movement from the above mentioned cheap bushings wear.I cut em out with a dremmel and freeze the new ones for easy insertion with fingers to not nick em from tappin in with a hammer,etc.good luck,wallace
have had the same problem many times. spray carb cleaner into hole where the brass plunger is located give it a little time to let the cleaner work. put some force on the cable it may come out if not remove the cable at the other end so you can remove carb to work on it