My horn button has come apart, does any one know how to put it back.i have the button,a brass inner (located inside the button ) and the spring still inside the hole.
should there be a clip holding it in place
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 10,000 points.
Re: horn button mechanism
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, to my understanding the button should have a lip that would serve as stopper. The button is inserted from the inside of the base, a big portion protrudes outside while the rear portion with a lip stops against the base. Pls reference below image.
Check and perform preliminary visual or necessary inspection. Pls post back result(s). Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
On an 80 model, should be in front between the headlight actuators..two if im not mistaken..I believe in 81 they swapped to the inside of each front fender...they also used a horn relay in 1980...if the horns aren't working, check the bolts, they are the ground for the horns...they also put like two things under the horns..act as insulator and contacts...if they are not in good shape horns wont work...if you open the hood and look just to the inner side of each headlight you should be able to see the horns.. bolts and pieces under horns very likely the problem...if its a late year production and they are inside the front of the fenders you have to pull the fenders and front clip piece..horn relay should be by fuse box..good luck!
There are a couple of relay locations. There is one in the engine compartment located on the left inner fender. You will have to remove a cover to see the fuses and relays. I believe there is another panel with some relays inside the cab on the firewall behind the foot pedals on the left. Again you will have to remove a cover to see them. Not sure where the horn relay is located. If you still have your owners manual it should identify all of the fuses and relays. They are easy to replace, you just pull them out like a fuse and put a new one in. Use a test light if you have one to see if you have voltage at the horn when the horn button is pushed and check any grounds your horn might have. If you have voltage at the horn maybe the new horn is bad also. That can happen.
First go to horn, its in the right side (passenger side) very front behind bumper. Turn wheel to the right, remove inner fender well, locate horn. Check to see if you have 12V there when the horn is activated to ensure its not just a horn. If there is 12V and ground and horn doesn't sound, you'll need a new horn. If voltage is good then back track to the horn relay, it should be under the hood electrical center (some earlier models were under the dash below steering wheel. If you press on the horn in the steering wheel, you should hear it click to locate. If not check the black wire going up the steering column, when jumpered to ground and horn sounds then the problem is inside the steering wheel, horn ring or contacts on the pad are faulty.
Inner chaincase has sprungfork plate rivited on, between which you should have a large plain washer and felt washer that are in situ before inner case is located over GB mainshft. if you have the projecting brass sleeve (bearing) this will fit inside felt/washer on assembly. Its not critical and you wont lose a lot of oil even if you dont use the above.
You never will know for sure UNTIL you take it apart.
I would start with the fuse box. If you find a bad fuse, disconnect the horn before putting in a new fuse. If a new fuse restores the power, reconnect the horn. If the fuse blows then it is a bad horn or a grounded horn wire or bad horn button switch.
Next, put a volt ohmmeter on the ignition switch to check for proper operation.
Check the wire connections inside the headlight housing to be sure the connections are clean, tight and that no wire is disconnected.
Next There may be a loose / dirty connection somewhere else on the bike. Remove the seat and gas tank to gain access to the wiring harness. Use a volt Ohmmeter. Start at the battery, then fuses and the wires connecting to the fuses. Inspect for burned wires, abraded wires, loose and/or dirty connections, bad plastic "box connectors" and loose wires.
The horn relay IS NOT located in a box toward the front of the engine. It is located just behind the radiator overflow reservoir and attached to the inner fender next to two other relays. It is the only one without a plastic cover over the top of it. FYI, our Crown Vic horn didn't blow, and the cruise didn't work. I changed the relay and still no horn. I decided to check the horns themselves. Found wires disconnected from terminals. Touched wire to horn terminal and horn blew incessantly. (previous owner had disconnected horn rather than diagnose why) Pulled the horn "button" from steering wheel and disconnected the wire leads and horn quit. Disassembled the "button" assembly. Foam had degraded over time between the contacts. (Ford has discontinued this part). Cleaned and replaced foam with Scotch foam mounting squares with holes punched out over contacts (2 layers thick). Re-assembled and viola! Horn and cruise control both work! Relay was bad as was horn button.
your horn wires are in your dash bord and if you are going to try to do that on your own goodluck cuz if you are going to try to take that apart then you are crazy that is a lot of wiring and you are going to **** it up and when you get it back together it wont start and that will cast you i would suggest if it is a wireing problem you take it in to someone who knows about the wireing in jeeps. ok if it is a fuse it is not one of the outside fuses is is an inside fuse look inside the car on the passengers side on the kik bord right by the door all of your inner fuses are there and on the pannle you pull off there should be extra fuses and a diagram of what fuses are what some are abreveated one dose say horn I know that so pull it and check to see if that is what is wrong if it is not then I would take i in or dissconect the horn and just ont havwe one.
Although the Haynes repair manual did not have an electrical diagram for the horn circuit, I suddenly remembered I had an old CD-ROM based Auto Repair program from Popular Mechanics that has an extensive selection of diagrams. It did have a diagram for the horn circuit which showed that there was no horn relay in the circuit. So I started by taking apart the horn button on the steering wheel. The horn button is a switch consisting of two metal discs approximately two inches in diameter which are separated by a thin layer of foam which is supposed to keep the two discs separated. The metal discs have dimples that should be kept apart by the resiliency of the foam but when the foam is compacted, the dimples come together to complete the circuit. However, the foam had deteriorated to almost nothing and was allowing the two discs to be in constant contact. I solved the problem using picture hanging tape. This is a double-sided adhesive tape that is about 1/16 inch thick and comes in a roll and can be found probably anywhere hardware is sold. I cut the tape into small squares and stuck them to strategic points on the flat parts of one of the discs so that they would keep the discs apart with approximately the same resiliency as the foam. When external pressure is applied to the outer disc, the dimples come together just like before to complete the circuit and the horn works perfectly. One thing I would like to point out is that when I initially took the horn apart, I started by removing the outer soft rubber cover from the horn pad to expose the horn button. It came off easily, but when it came time to put it back together, I could not get the cover back on. Then I discovered that there are three phillips head screws on the back side of the steering wheel that hold the horn button assembly in place. So to save time and frustration, I would recommend that step one be to remove those screws first.