Question about 2007 Buell Firebolt XB12R

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Front forks dive

Is fork spring tool required to add oil? Yes l have same problem with really bad dipping when brakeing how do fix, Buell XB 12X tim_telford@hotmail.com

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Yes, it is required, but the job should be done by a mechanic.

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

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Yes it is and this should not be attempted unless you have superior knowledge on this model.

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

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2 Answers

Fork seal replacement


Hi, Anonymous sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Buell but despair not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below and for specific information or questions, please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a nice day
Buell Blast Front Fork Spring Removal
2008 Buell XB12SCG Fork Seals
Buell Service Manuals PDF Download
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2001 Buell Blast Owners Operators Owner Manual Factory 2001 eBay

Oct 29, 2013 | 2000 Buell Blast

1 Answer

Front forks what goes in them highdrolic fluid or brake fluid


Not brake fluid or Hydraulic oil ( oil weight is the issue)
Drain forks ( bottom nipple) , remove top bold , be careful it is pressurized by spring . Use the right tool otherwise will damage bolt and your face.

Front forks should be sealed properly, fork seal should be intact, no water or brake fluid in them. Right amount of fork fluid is imperative along with oil weight specification ( check manual and appropriate oil weight for your bike), wrong oil and amount can otherwise damage your forks.

Sep 19, 2012 | 2001 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Buell Ulysses XB12X front suspension oil leak. 1) How much oil? 2) type of oil to be used? 3) How to replace oil seals?


The fork service is not for a novice. you can hurt yourself pretty badly with the compressed springs inside of the forks if you release them wrong. You need a copy of the factory service manual. You can download it if you google it. Otherwise it is strongly recommended that you take it to a trained professional.

Mar 07, 2011 | 2007 Buell XB12X Ulysses

1 Answer

How much fork oil goes in the forks of an 2001 FXD and how do I do this ? Do you have any diagrams to help me with ?




I have no diagrams for you. MAke your own as you take it apart etc and take lots of cell phone pictures if you need help remembering how to put things back together.

Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts



MODEL OZ CC IN. MM



FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9



FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 184.9



FXDL 10.7 316 7.20 182.9



FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9




Changing fork oil is a simple mater for some models and requires fork disassembly for others. Here is the procedure for all 2001 DYNA models:

2001 DYNA FRONT FORK OIL 1.18


REPLACING FORK OIL Replace front fork oil at every 20,000 mile (32,000 km) service interval and/or prior to storage.


ALL BUT FXDX & FXDXT models


Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, on FXDL models, remove the center plug from each fork cap, on all other models, remove the fork tube caps, remove the drain screws from the bottom of each fork and drain the fork oil, replace the drain screws and washers and tighten the screws

to 13-17 in-lbs (1.5-2.0 Nm) THEN see Table 1-6. and fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) as set out in the Table. THEN if apart assemble the forks as follows:


a. FXD, FXDXT, FXDWG models: install both fork tube caps and tighten them to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm).

b. FXDL models: install center plugs and tighten until secure.


Fork oil amounts can be measured two ways: use the oz./cc measurement if fork is left in frame; use the in./mm measurement if the fork is disassembled in which case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.


Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts for 2001 DYNA


MODEL OZ CC IN. MM

FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9

FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 182.9

FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9


PART NO. SPECIALTY TOOL

HD-41177 Fork tube holder

HD-41549A Fork spring compression tool

HD-41551 Spring plate tool

HD-36583 Fork seal installer

HD-59000A Pro-level oil gauge



FRONT FORKS: FXDX & FXDXT 2.20

REMOVAL

Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove both front brake calipers and the front wheel, remove the front fender, remove the front fairing, remove the headlamp bracket and attach the headlamp to the frame using a rubber bungee strap, loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts and pull the fork sides from the brackets.


DISASSEMBLY

Remove the stopper ring, remove the spring preload adjuster but DO NOT unthread the rebound adjuster from the damper rod because incorrect assembly could result in reduced adjustment range. THEN unthread the fork cap from the fork tube and allow the fork leg to drop, exposing the spring, THEN get a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL (Part No. HD-41549A) on the spring collar, turn the screws in to engage the holes in collar, compress the spring until the SPRING PLATE TOOL (Part No. HD-

41551) can be positioned between the spacer and the spring collar, THEN hold the fork bolt and compression adjuster, remove the fork bolt from the compression adjuster, remove the spring adjuster plate from the fork bolt, remove spacer, spring collar and spring, pour out the fork oil by pumping the fork leg and rod 8-10 times or until rod the moves freely. THEN position fork slider in vise using a FORK TUBE HOLDER such as (Part No. HD-41177) to avoid damage. THEN remove the socket head bolt, remove the damper from the fork tube, remove the cover from the slider, remove seal and stopper ring, pull the fork tube out of the slider, remove the oil seal, spacer and guide bushing from the fork tube.


CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Measure the fork spring free length and replace the spring if it is shorter than 17.00 in. (431.8 mm), check the fork tube and the slider for score marks, scratches or abnormal wear, check the slide and guide bushings for excessive wear or scratches, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure runout which should not exceed 0.008 in. (0.2 mm).


ASSEMBLY

Coat the oil seal with TYPE E FORK OIL, before installing the slide bushing and guide bushing, lubricate them with fork oil, THEN install the guide bushing and the spacer seal noting that the guide bushing opening must be oriented to the side and NOT to the front or rear, THEN slip the slider into the fork tube, place the slide bushing over the fork tube until it rests on the slider, drive the guide bushing with the spacer seal into the slider, lubricate a new oil seal with TYPE E FORK Oil, drive the oil seal into the slider using FORK SEAL INSTALLER (Part No. HD-36583). install the stopper ring and dust seal, (if the rebound adjuster was removed from the damper rod bottom the lock nut on the threaded portion of damper rod, holding a thumb on the detent spring and ball, back out (turn counterclockwise) the rebound adjuster to the last "click." and then turn down (clockwise) 17 "clicks", thread the rebound adjuster onto the damper rod until the adjuster stops at maximum thread engagement (but do not force it), thread the locknut onto the damper rod up until it contacts the base of the rebound adjuster and tighten it in place), THEN holding the slider in a vise while being careful not to damage it. install the damper tube into the fork tube and tighten the socket screw and washer to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN pour half the TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube, slowly pump the damper rod 10 or more times, position the damper rod in the fully bottomed position and pour the remaining amount of TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube. THEN using a PRO-LEVEL OIL GAUGE (Part No. HD-59000A) or similar adjust the oil level to 5.04 in. (128 mm). THEN carefully clean and install the spring, the spring collar, and the spacers with the sharp edge created when they were stamped out when manufactured, facing the collar. THEN using a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL such as (Part No. HD-41549A) push spring collar down and place a SPRING PLATE such as (Part No. HD-41551) between the spacer and the spring collar, install the fork cap and tighten it against the rebound adjuster to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN tighten the fork cap onto the fork tube to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm), install the spring adjuster plate, replace the O-rings on the spring preload adjuster and lubricate them with fork oil. THEN install the spring preload adjuster and the stopper ring and carefully drive the slider cover into the slider.


INSTALLATION

Insert both fork side assemblies up through the fork stem and bracket and upper bracket and tighten the fork stem bracket pinch bolt(s) to 30-35 ft-lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). Then re-install the headlamp bracket, install the front fender, install the front wheel and the brake caliper When the motorcycle is again ready for the road adjust the headlamp and road test the motorcycle.






Feb 10, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide...

1 Answer

Ive got a gl1100 1982 with air front suspension q-what is the best way to change the front fork to a convensional spring fork and what forks would be the best ?


Hello and thanks for the question,
Your 1982 GL1100 has air assist type of suspension. It has springs in the front as well as the air pressure. This is a heavy bike and the front forks are marginal at best. I have had great results from installing progressive suspension springs and moving up to a heavier fork oil (20wt ) to keep the bike from diving so far during braking.

www.progressivesuspension.com

You should look at having the forks rebuilt with these parts and you will find that the bike handles much better than before.
The springs that are in the bike are old now and should be updated with new style parts.

Thanks and I hope that this helps.
Steve

Feb 03, 2011 | 1982 Honda GL 1100 Aspencade Gold Wing

1 Answer

Sagging fork springs


You may have an air adluster, schrader valve with which to add air pressure, or there may be settings on the rebound and damping settings, are the fork seals leaking oil at the sliders of the forks, springs do wear out as well, some bicks have anti dive solenoids activated via front brake activation and limit the compression of the front forks upon rapid braking, , you maty need springs, seals and thicker fork oil its hard to say exactly what you have going on but its one or more of these.

Dec 27, 2010 | Suzuki GSX 600 F (Katana Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do you remove the forks on a 2001 fxd superglide






Hopefully you will glean all you need to know from this but if you want or need more information or more FXD specific information PLEASE H

Hopefully the information below will be okay BUT if you need any more or any more specific information please post a comment and describe what you want/need.

REPLACING FORK OIL Replace front fork oil at every 20,000 mile (32,000 km) service interval and/or prior to storage.


ALL BUT FXDX & FXDXT models


Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, on FXDL models, remove the center plug from each fork cap, on all other models, remove the fork tube caps, remove the drain screws from the bottom of each fork and drain the fork oil, replace the drain screws and washers and tighten the screws

to 13-17 in-lbs (1.5-2.0 Nm) THEN see Table 1-6. and fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) as set out in the Table. THEN if apart assemble the forks as follows:


a. FXD, FXDXT, FXDWG models: install both fork tube caps and tighten them to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm).

b. FXDL models: install center plugs and tighten until secure.


Fork oil amounts can be measured two ways: use the oz./cc measurement if fork is left in frame; use the in./mm measurement if the fork is disassembled in which case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.


Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts for 2001 DYNA


MODEL OZ CC IN. MM

FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9

FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 182.9

FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9


PART NO. SPECIALTY TOOL

HD-41177 Fork tube holder

HD-41549A Fork spring compression tool

HD-41551 Spring plate tool

HD-36583 Fork seal installer

HD-59000A Pro-level oil gauge



FRONT FORKS: FXDX & FXDXT 2.20

REMOVAL

Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove both front brake calipers and the front wheel, remove the front fender, remove the front fairing, remove the headlamp bracket and attach the headlamp to the frame using a rubber bungee strap, loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts and pull the fork sides from the brackets.


DISASSEMBLY

Remove the stopper ring, remove the spring preload adjuster but DO NOT unthread the rebound adjuster from the damper rod because incorrect assembly could result in reduced adjustment range. THEN unthread the fork cap from the fork tube and allow the fork leg to drop, exposing the spring, THEN get a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL (Part No. HD-41549A) on the spring collar, turn the screws in to engage the holes in collar, compress the spring until the SPRING PLATE TOOL (Part No. HD-

41551) can be positioned between the spacer and the spring collar, THEN hold the fork bolt and compression adjuster, remove the fork bolt from the compression adjuster, remove the spring adjuster plate from the fork bolt, remove spacer, spring collar and spring, pour out the fork oil by pumping the fork leg and rod 8-10 times or until rod the moves freely. THEN position fork slider in vise using a FORK TUBE HOLDER such as (Part No. HD-41177) to avoid damage. THEN remove the socket head bolt, remove the damper from the fork tube, remove the cover from the slider, remove seal and stopper ring, pull the fork tube out of the slider, remove the oil seal, spacer and guide bushing from the fork tube.


CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Measure the fork spring free length and replace the spring if it is shorter than 17.00 in. (431.8 mm), check the fork tube and the slider for score marks, scratches or abnormal wear, check the slide and guide bushings for excessive wear or scratches, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure runout which should not exceed 0.008 in. (0.2 mm).


ASSEMBLY

Coat the oil seal with TYPE E FORK OIL, before installing the slide bushing and guide bushing, lubricate them with fork oil, THEN install the guide bushing and the spacer seal noting that the guide bushing opening must be oriented to the side and NOT to the front or rear, THEN slip the slider into the fork tube, place the slide bushing over the fork tube until it rests on the slider, drive the guide bushing with the spacer seal into the slider, lubricate a new oil seal with TYPE E FORK Oil, drive the oil seal into the slider using FORK SEAL INSTALLER (Part No. HD-36583). install the stopper ring and dust seal, (if the rebound adjuster was removed from the damper rod bottom the lock nut on the threaded portion of damper rod, holding a thumb on the detent spring and ball, back out (turn counterclockwise) the rebound adjuster to the last "click." and then turn down (clockwise) 17 "clicks", thread the rebound adjuster onto the damper rod until the adjuster stops at maximum thread engagement (but do not force it), thread the locknut onto the damper rod up until it contacts the base of the rebound adjuster and tighten it in place), THEN holding the slider in a vise while being careful not to damage it. install the damper tube into the fork tube and tighten the socket screw and washer to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN pour half the TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube, slowly pump the damper rod 10 or more times, position the damper rod in the fully bottomed position and pour the remaining amount of TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube. THEN using a PRO-LEVEL OIL GAUGE (Part No. HD-59000A) or similar adjust the oil level to 5.04 in. (128 mm). THEN carefully clean and install the spring, the spring collar, and the spacers with the sharp edge created when they were stamped out when manufactured, facing the collar. THEN using a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL such as (Part No. HD-41549A) push spring collar down and place a SPRING PLATE such as (Part No. HD-41551) between the spacer and the spring collar, install the fork cap and tighten it against the rebound adjuster to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN tighten the fork cap onto the fork tube to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm), install the spring adjuster plate, replace the O-rings on the spring preload adjuster and lubricate them with fork oil. THEN install the spring preload adjuster and the stopper ring and carefully drive the slider cover into the slider.


INSTALLATION

Insert both fork side assemblies up through the fork stem and bracket and upper bracket and tighten the fork stem bracket pinch bolt(s) to 30-35 ft-lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). Then re-install the headlamp bracket, install the front fender, install the front wheel and the brake caliper When the motorcycle is again ready for the road adjust the headlamp and road test the motorcycle.

Oct 01, 2010 | 2001 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

3 Answers

1984 Kawasaki GPz1100 (ZX1100-A2) Repair


The anti-dive valves are easy to remove...
Place the bike on her center stand, and raise the front wheel with a jack under the front of the engine/exhaust.
first loose the 3-way connector on the lower fork part ( brakefluid ).
Remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the anti-dive system to the lower part. You'll see the plunger. When braking, that plunger should move about 2mm out. It must be possuble to push it back in place with fingerpressure. Then that part of valve is OK. All the parts of the plunger are separately available by a Kawasaki dealer.
The lower part of the ADVS is also easy. Just remove the 2 screws holding them to the fork tubes. The fork oil will drip out...
When reassemble, dont forget to bleed the brake hoses at the top of the plungers...
To remove the springs...
Loose both screws on the upper fork clamps.
Remove the rubber stops on the air valves
Bleed the air out of the fork pushing the air valves ( some have only 1 air valve, and an equilibration tube just below the upper fork clamp )
Remove both fork spring stops. Caution, hold them firmly down while unscreing, to avoid the stops jump away at the end of the thread!
On reassembly, the stops must be screwed at 2.3 DaN/m (17 lbf/ft ).
The quantity of oil is exactly 348cm³ in each fork. Must be filled without the springs. Push then the fork several times up and down to pump the new oil in all the valves. Then with the fork down, measure the hight between oil level and top of fork. That must be 379mm.

Hope this all helps...
Don't know about an air valve at the bottom of fork tubes...

Feb 06, 2009 | 1995 kawasaki GPZ 1100

1 Answer

Front forks dive


It is really difficult (but not impossible) to do it without the fork spring compression tool.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2007 Buell Firebolt XB12R

1 Answer

Fork Oil for ETV CAPONORD


front and rear. Panniers were full tankbag was full no topbox riding solo. THE BIKE originally shipped 20 weight oil for the forks. That was much to stiff for me. I talked with them and they suggested trying 15 weight and that 10 would probably be too soft. I tried the 15 weight and it was improved but still pretty harsh especially on small bumps. A friend with lots of experience related that he uses Silkolene 2.5 weight in his sport touring bikes (such as his Honda Hurricane and Ducati ST4). I installed 4 weight (actually aircraft hydraulic fluid, previously known to old Beemer riders as Aeroshell 4). I LOVE IT!! Compression damping is just fine. Rebound damping might be a tiny amount too little, but not enough to matter. Even dive under heavy braking is reasonable....much less than with the stock springs. ,It is difficult to get the right oil viscosity for everyone. Typically I ride 2up with wife, 400# plus gear, plus luggage, easily 440-450# total load. Even under those circunstances I may try W15 next time, but for sure not less. The Dutch WP is working with BMW, supplying the shocks and spring for the new K1200 S /R /PowerCup models. WP engineers (like Hyperpro) have designed a retrofit to the Front Springs for the Capo, as well as a rear shock. BTW, by coincidence those front springs are progressive too. They recommend from 5 to 20, depending on the typical bike loading. I suggest a look into the WP website, good stuff there. Here I am pasting some info from WP: ...the progressively wound Pro-Line front fork springs of WP Suspension play a fundamental role in the operation of your front fork. The springing and damping characteristics of your front fork can be fully optimised if the correct springs are used. Many motorcyclists know the problem of too soft front fork springs which can result in bottoming of the front fork when braking or too much movement and poor handling of the front fork during braking and acceleration. Original front fork springs can also be too hard which causes the front fork to shock the steering and the entire bike to feel uncomfortable on uneven road surfaces. With the WP Pro-Line front fork springs you are taking the first step towards optimum road holding at an attractive price. The springs, progressively wound from high-grade silicon chrome spring steel, ensure that your front fork will respond better (improved comfort), and react more controllable when compressed under braking (more stability, resulting in greater safety). In most cases motorcycle manufacturers use linear wound front fork springs which are often in the beginning but also at the end of the stroke, either to soft or to hard. Progressivity is lacking. With progressively wound WP springs you can solve this problem, once and for all. __________________ ,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2004 Aprilia ETV 1000 Caponord

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