I'VE HAD MY 1990 FORD F150 TRUCK ON TWO OCCASIONS LATELY TO MAKE A CRAZY LOUD GRINDING SOUND WHILE TRYING TO CRANK IT. IT ACTS LIKE ITS NOT IN PARK GOOD BECAUSE I CAN MOVE THE AUTOMATIC GEAR SHIFTER BACK AND FORWARDS AND TRY AGAIN AND IT MIGHT CRANK WITH NO SOUND. IS THE LINKAGE LOOSE FROM THE GEAR SHIFTER TO TRANSMISSION OR IS THIS A STARTER PROBLEM?? ITS HAPPENED A COUPLE TIMES LATELY IN THE PAST TWO WEEKS. THE MOTOR DOESN'T TURN OVER, JUST A LOUD STRANGE SOUND WHEN CRANKING SOMETIMES. ALSO I NOTICED TODAY WHEN I CRANKED THE TRUCK AFTER GETTING HOME YOU CAN SEE THE GEAR SHIFTER ITSELF MOVE A LITTLE WHEN ITS CRANKING. WHAT DOES THIS SOUND LIKE?
Check and make sure the bell housing on the transmission isn't broke and trying to separate from the engine. Shifter shouldn't move while cranking unless transmission itself is moving.
SOURCE: Engine will not crank intermitantly
Crank sensor can translate heat. Not allowing restart after the turbo heat radiates in the area. Try a wad of aluminum foil in front of the crank sensor(on the block behind the turbo) . It protects it from heat and its a cheep test. If this works you can make a better sheild or leave the foil.
SOURCE: cranks fine, want move from park position
water intrusion in the junction block is kina what it sounds like to me.
they were doing a recall on this vehicle.
there was corrosion happening to the wires.
SOURCE: 94 ford explorer, starter won't turn
If you have the proper voltage at the starter, (battery voltage) and the starter won't turn, it is the starter or the engine. Try turning the engine over with a wrench on the harmonic balancer.
SOURCE: 1995 Ford Aspire won't crank, won't start
I had a similar problem and my shifter would not work until I got the electrical problem fixed. This was very frustrating, because I wanted to push it from the street to my garage and it obviously wouldn't roll if you can't get it to neutral. You may have a main fuse that is blown that is preventing the 12V current from reaching anything. There is also a fuseable link that is a small wire that is like a fuse that can also overheat and break connection. Your owners manual should show you the location of the main fuses. The fuseable links are usually on the front shock towers and each can be checked with a continuity tester. What you can do is get a good 12V test light and check how far the current travels starting from the positive battery terminal, until you find the problem. Check for breaks in wires and shorts. Since you know your battery is good, it has to be the wiring if its not making it to the fuse box. Just use the process of elimination to go one step at a time.
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NO I wasn't driving my truck. It was after a doctors visit I came out to crasnk it and i made a crazy loud free standing grinding sound. The motor doesn't turn over when this happens,but after moving my gear shifter down to neautral and back to park it cranked fine. I had a whole steering column put in about a year agoand wondered if it might not be all the way in park sometimes. It's happened to me a couple times before. I GOT OU IN THE YARD YESTERDAY AND DROVE AROUND AND CUT IT OFF SEVERAL TIMES AND CRANKED FINE. Even in neautral it crunk. Is there a switch or linkage problem that would make this loud grinding sound??
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