If its staying cold then there is no combustion in the cylinder.first check the spark plugs swap them round remembering which was the suspect one if the cylinder its stays cold then you have a faulty plug. also check you have a good spark at the ht lead. if there is a good ht spark then i would suspect the carbs arent delivering fuel to your cylinder.. next check you have good compression and if not then its a head off job????hope this helps dave firstname.lastname@example.org
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Re: one cylinder not getting hot
If all the rest are fine then it's not timing, and if you took care for the carbs it's not fuel
Last two things to check is spark and compression. A quick compression test of all your cylnders will give you a good idea of the condition of the engine and if thats the problem.
The spark could be missing for several reasons. First replace the spark plug, local auto parts shops should have it, should be the same as most honda cars. then test the coils for the proper ohms, a service manual will have the specs for your bike, or google it, and then make sure the coils have juice running to them.
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Your front cylinder is not running. This could be due to spark or fuel, or lack of compression.
Check for spark first by inserting a good plug in the plug wire and holding it against the cylinder. If it shows bright spark, you may have a fueling or compression issue.
Check for compression, should be around 150psi. If you have spark and compression, you probably have a fueling issue.
Check the carb for the front cylinder for fuel level in the bowl. If the fuel level is correct you have another carb issue which will require removal and cleaning/servicing.
The 120° advanced reading may indeed be correct. Here's why. Your bike is equipped with a "dual fire" ignition system which means both spark plugs fire at the same time every time a piston comes to top center. This creates a "wasted spark" as one spark plug is firing on a cylinder that is on the exhaust stroke. Since a Harley engine is a twin cylinder engine that uses only a single crankpin, the pistons are on a cycle that is not exactly 180° apart like in most engines. If I had to take a guess at your problem, I'd say that your fuel air mixture is too lean either due to improper setup or you have a vacuum leak. If your bike is equipped with a carburetor, check to make sure the accelerator pump is working like it should. Take the air filter off so that you can see into the carb. With the engine OFF, crank the throttle to wide open position while watching the brass nozzle just inside the carb opening. It should spray a squirt of fuel into the carb. If it doesn't, you need to replace the diaphragm in the accelerator pump in the float bowl of the carb.
Do not twist the throttle when re-starting a hot engine. That bike floods easily. The power valve in the carb squirts gas into the cylinder with every twist of the throttle. A fresh spark plug will also help.
run a can of Seaforam in the tank..purchase from Autozone put in 1/3 to two gallons gas drive it around for at least 10 miles to insure it cleans out the whole carb system.if that doesnt work, check all carb hose fittings when bike is at idle spray some Chemtool B-12 ( also at Autozone) around the carb hoses and manifolds..if idle increses thats your problem. Caution: chemtool is very toxic wear gloves and a mask.
check for air leaks. be sure to check the carb boots - those crack like crazy. Also check your throttle and return cables for proper operation. If the throttle does not "snap" back, lube the cables or better yet replace them with new ones. If all checks out ok then you have to check the throttle plate balance. You need a vacuum gauge such as this one http://www.saber-cycle.com/store/Tools1.html#735 . Turn the screw for each throttle plate until the pressure reads the same for eery cylinder.
The white smoke indicates the need for new valve guide seals. The black smoke indicates that the fuel/air mix is far too rich. Re-jet the carb to stock #137 main jet. Don't mess with the pilot jet if the bike idles okay. No other settings to mess with. Install a new stock plug ; NGK R CR9E
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Check the jet needle clip on the top of the needle. Put it in mid-range. Put the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.
I just thought of somthing. You may be creating the rich mix problem yourself. See the following starting instructions. There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.
The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
The de-compression lever, always used.
The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.