If its staying cold then there is no combustion in the cylinder.first check the spark plugs swap them round remembering which was the suspect one if the cylinder its stays cold then you have a faulty plug. also check you have a good spark at the ht lead. if there is a good ht spark then i would suspect the carbs arent delivering fuel to your cylinder.. next check you have good compression and if not then its a head off job????hope this helps dave email@example.com
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Re: one cylinder not getting hot
If all the rest are fine then it's not timing, and if you took care for the carbs it's not fuel
Last two things to check is spark and compression. A quick compression test of all your cylnders will give you a good idea of the condition of the engine and if thats the problem.
The spark could be missing for several reasons. First replace the spark plug, local auto parts shops should have it, should be the same as most honda cars. then test the coils for the proper ohms, a service manual will have the specs for your bike, or google it, and then make sure the coils have juice running to them.
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There are three cylinders and three carbs, the carbs are linked by a small plastic clip on one of the linkage rods, image attached. One cylinder was running fine, 2 cylinders remained at idle. Under load it bogged down. I had the same problem on an Evinrude 70. I guess you have checked the plugs and gaps?
Remove the covers and the air filter, the screw heads are Torq 27, with the covers removed, insert a Torq 27 tool through the small hole in the black air filter housing ( close to the back of the cylinder ) and undo the screw that goes into the cylinder, now grab the air filter housing and pull firmly toward the back of the machine, it will come away as an assembly along with the carb, lift up far enough to un clip the throttle rod from the trigger, un hook the fuel hose from the carb, you will now have the assembly away from the machine.
Because there is no fuel to the plugs I would pull the 02 senor out of the tailpipe and see if the catalytic converter or muffler is plugged. If they are they put back pressure on the engine and not allow the fuel to be drawn into the cylinder and fire.
run a can of Seaforam in the tank..purchase from Autozone put in 1/3 to two gallons gas drive it around for at least 10 miles to insure it cleans out the whole carb system.if that doesnt work, check all carb hose fittings when bike is at idle spray some Chemtool B-12 ( also at Autozone) around the carb hoses and manifolds..if idle increses thats your problem. Caution: chemtool is very toxic wear gloves and a mask.
The white smoke indicates the need for new valve guide seals. The black smoke indicates that the fuel/air mix is far too rich. Re-jet the carb to stock #137 main jet. Don't mess with the pilot jet if the bike idles okay. No other settings to mess with. Install a new stock plug ; NGK R CR9E
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Check the jet needle clip on the top of the needle. Put it in mid-range. Put the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.
I just thought of somthing. You may be creating the rich mix problem yourself. See the following starting instructions. There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.
The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
The de-compression lever, always used.
The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.
i assume it's a petrol driven probaby 2 stroke? if yes then you need a service on the carb & air filter if the engine is going back ok on idle speed.if it does not & goes off when you release the throttle then you may need to check the compression chamber which might have been damaged by not adding stroke oil in the petrol mixture.Hope this helps and is a 2 stroke engine...