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1976 Toyota pick up 20R engine. Charging issue. Oil light came on than the charger light came on. Replaced the alternator replaced the voltage regulator.Which seems to have done absolutely no good the charging light oil light are still on, And the battery Still is not charging. The alternator connections have three connections besides the one that goes to the battery which is on the main post. According to the paperwork that came with the alternator one of the connections is the: Field (B), E (-), (N) Stator. After tracing back the wires the field seems to be going to ground. I was informed to put 12 V to the field connection and the alternator would kick in and start charging about 18 volts. So I Put a jumper wire, from the positive side of the battery over to the field connection on the alternator, and it dead shorted and the engine died. So at this point I am totally confused as to what I should do next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you.

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SOURCE: motorcraft alternator to regulator

Here is a generic wiring diagram that should work
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SOURCE: 1972 Ford F100 Alternator/Voltage Regulator wiring

Here is what you need.

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SOURCE: I replaced my stator on my 1983 650 silver wing interstate

Where did you get the stator?? If not factory... You might want to us a volt meter and measure the resistance. You can find the resistance specs in its honda service manual. Give some more info!!

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SOURCE: wire connector between stator & voltage reg/rectifier burnt

your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot

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2 Answers

Replaced battery and alternator it still wont start unless charger is on boost then runs for 10 min then dies wont restart unless battery charger on it again?


Either the battery is a dud, (cant retain a charge) or the alternator is not charging possibly due to a wire not connecting or wires incorrectly connected or both. Check voltage at the alternator (large terminal) without motor running, should be around 12 to 13 volts

Oct 12, 2015 | 1998 Oldsmobile Bravada

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Changed the battery and alternator on my 2006 tundra still not charging. Runs 30 min. And dies . Any help ?


Go through the basics.
1 Make sure the alternator is charging (operating properly) by measuring the voltage between earth (battery negative) and the live terminal. It should be greater than 13 volts, less than 15V.
2 Make sure the regulator is being excited. Most modern alternators need to have the dash light working in order to send a minute current to the alternator regulator to kick it into life. If the dash light is out, (fused) the alternator won't work.
3 If the voltage from the alternator live terminal is good, check the voltage at the battery. It should be between 13.5 and 14.8 Volts. If this reading differs from the reading at the alternator output, you have a wiring issue.
4 Wiring issues may include but is not limited to:
a) bad connection at the battery terminal
b) bad connection at the main fuse,
c) bad connection at the starter motor. Some vehicles pick up the main power from the battery cable at the starter solenoid.
d) broken wire, bad connections on the main power lead connection terminals.
Happy hunting!

Mar 08, 2015 | 2006 Toyota Tundra

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Alternator light stays


Did you have the old alternator tested before you replaced it ?
The light stays on if the alternator is not putting out enough voltage to reverse the flow of current thru the warning light. The problem could be the light circuit, or the alternator may not be charging.

May 30, 2013 | 2004 Toyota Highlander

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Have 1985 w150 pick up that's not charging, replaced battery,voltage regulator,an alternator, an still not charging


1985 WOW ! does it run at all ? if it does , check battery voltage, should be between 12---14 volts, check alternator also, a parts store can do this for you ! is your regulator outside your alternator ? cause most new alternators have them inside the alternator ! just thinking out loud, but stranger things have happened ! are these new parts the correct ones for your make & model ? battery terminals clean, tight ! make sure all GROUNDS are good ! very important ! what condition are your battery cables ? is your BELT good, tight, not slipping !!! sure your starter & solonoid OK ! not shorting out, from dirt, grease, oil, etc., all fuses OK! I think we covered it, take your time, go over what I mentioned, see it you find the problem, good luck !

Mar 14, 2013 | 1986 Dodge Ramcharger

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Electrical: I have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan and the battery light came on . So i hooked up my tester on the alternator and got a low output, than disconnected the negative terminal while the engine


My 2000 Caravan developed this problem after our hard winter so I searched and found that tapping the alternator might reveal that the brushes were intermittent. Sure enough, a slight tap caused the charging voltage to come on at around 14 Volts. A new brush assembly was under $10 on eBay and after finally getting the alternator out and the brushes replaced, re-installed all was well!

8d51f465-7bb3-4807-a01d-180a2372a31b.jpg

Feb 21, 2012 | 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan

1 Answer

I left the key on my 06 hummer h3 then i boosted it,now the altornator lights on and when i pull the ground it die,is there a fuse or did i burn a wire?


Here is the short answer:

If your vehicle runs you could drive it to someplace like AutoZone or O'reilly's they could charge it and test your battery and alternator. If either is defective they will be glad to sell you replacement parts. If your vehicle cannot be driven then the battery and or the alternator can be removed and brought again to someplace like AutoZone or O'reilly's to be tested.

Here is the long answer:
When the alternator light is lit it indicates the battery is not being charged. I suggest you use a volt/ohm meter to confirm this indication. With a charged battery and the engine off the battery voltage should be 12 volts or slightly higher. With the engine running check the voltage at the battery. If the alternator is charging the battery then this voltage should be somewhere between 13 and 14 volts. Check the voltage at the alternator and it should be a little higher. The difference in these two voltages is the voltage developed across the wire due to the charging current. If the battery voltage is about 12 volts or less and the voltage at the alternator is slightly higher then the alternator is charging the battery but the battery has an internal problem and should be replaced. If the voltage is the same or the voltage at the battery is higher than at the alternator then the alternator is defective.

If this effort is inconclusive then charge the battery with a charger and check the battery and charger with the voltmeter in a similar way. If the charger fully charges the battery then reinstall it into the vehicle and try the tests again.

Another test is to install the fully charged battery and if the engine starts normally and then the vehicle is left overnight it should start the next day. If it doesn't then the electrical system is discharging the battery when it is off and that is not normal. It is true that some current will flow when it is off because the engine computer usually draws some power and could discharge the battery maybe in a month but it should not discharge a good battery overnight. The battery could be self discharging or the electrical system is using too much current when it is off. If you accidentally connected the battery cables in reverse when you jump (boosted) the battery then it could very quickly damage the alternator and possibly other components. If this happened then the alternator should be checked and replaced if faulty.

I hope this helps.

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2 Answers

Hello, MY 2005 Nisan frontier will not start. About 3 days ago, the battery light would stay on after the engine started...had the battery checked and it was fine...then serviced it yesterday but it still...


Battery might seem fine on a routine check, but the crancking amp power is not there anymore, seems that your alternator is not charging it anymore, have the alternator checked and replaced if needed, the battery might need replacing too.

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2 Answers

I have a 1976 eldorado that when you disconnect the battery when running the car stalls out I replaced the alternator and battery and after a couple of days the battery died the alternator did not keep the...


A 76, huh, let's see, I don't know if that had the regulator in there or not. It sounds like the alt died, but maybe not. It won't run without the alt. And will only last about 20 mins on a full battery. I would take the alt off and get it back to the store to have it checked. That would be the quickest way to tell, just because it is new doesn't mean it is good. Don't keep on killing the battery, it can only handle so many drains. Hope this helps.

Jun 16, 2010 | 1976 Cadillac Deville

2 Answers

What are some techniques to fixing the alternator?


ALTERNATOR PRECAUTIONS

To prevent damage to the alternator and regulator, the following precautionary measures must be taken when working with the electrical system.
  1. NEVER reverse the battery connections. Always check the battery polarity visually. This is to be done before any connections are made to ensure that all of the connections correspond to the battery ground polarity of the car.
  2. Booster batteries must be connected properly. Make sure the positive cable of the booster battery is connected to the positive terminal of the battery which is getting the boost.
  3. Disconnect the battery cables before using a fast charger; the charger has a tendency to force current through the diodes in the opposite direction for which they were designed.
  4. NEVER use a fast charger as a booster for starting the car.
  5. NEVER disconnect the voltage regulator while the engine is running, unless as noted for testing purposes.
  6. Do NOT ground the alternator output terminal.
  7. Do NOT operate the alternator on an open circuit with the field energized.
  8. Do NOT attempt to polarize the alternator.
  9. Disconnect the battery cables and remove the alternator before using an electric arc welder on the car.
  10. Protect the alternator from excessive moisture. If the engine is to be steam cleaned, cover or remove the alternator.
TESTINGThere are several checks that can be done with inexpensive equipment. The first thing to do is to see if the discharge warning light on the dashboard lights when the ignition switch is turned on. If it is not lit, check for blown fuses, a blown out bulb itself (The system will not charge with a bad bulb) or bad connections.
If the warning light does light with the ignition switch on, but stays on with the engine running, check for a loose (or missing) belt, a loose or faulty battery cable, corrosion, a blown fuse or fusible link or a shorted or open wire.

If everything seems to be good (including the battery), but the charge light is always on, then the alternator itself probably is to blame. This does not mean the whole alternator needs to be replaced. Many times, the IC regulator can become faulty and cause the no-charge condition. There is a way to determine whether just the IC regulator or the whole alternator should be replaced.

The alternator can be "full-fielded;" that is, the F terminal can be shorted to ground, making the alternator think there is a heavy load on the electrical system. If the alternator starts putting out when the F terminal is shorted to ground, then the IC regulator is probably faulty. If the alternator still does not put out when the F terminal is grounded, then the whole alternator should probably be replaced. It can be concluded that the alternator is "putting out" by observing the voltage of the battery. The system is charging when the battery voltage is approximately 14-15 volts. If it is only 12-12.5 volts, something is wrong. If the charging voltage is too high (more than 15 volts, the battery smells like sulfur or frequently runs out of water or the bulbs in the vehicle burn out too frequently, then the IC regulator is probably faulty (See Regulator).

Check the alternator and IC regulator by performing the following:
  1. Ground the F terminal on the alternator.
  2. Start the engine.
  3. Analyze the voltage, using the information above.
6f2e8d9.jpg

Fig. 1 Checking the alternator and IC regulator 2S-E, 3S-FE and 3S-GE engines shown

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Fig. 2 Checking the alternator and IC regulator 4A-FE, 5S-FE and 3S-GTE engines shown




Hope this help (remember rated this).

May 17, 2010 | 1987 Toyota Celica

2 Answers

Charging gauge bouncing back and forth starts after jump


sounds like a shorted field in the alternator

Nov 07, 2009 | 1981 Ford F 150

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