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How to replace clutch plates in 1989 harley davidson flst

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Do you want to replace the plates ?? if so jessieanjames@gmail.com and i will give ya step by step instructions and pages from manual. Wazz

Posted on Dec 22, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: adjust clutch cable

If you have a stock cable you need a 9/16 and a 1/2 in. wrench. about 1/2 way downn the cable there is a rubber boot. pull the rubber boot over the adjustment. Loosen the liock nut and adjust the cable so you have aprox 1/8 to 1/16 in. slack in the handle. Re tighten the lock nut and pull the rubber back over the adjustment.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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SOURCE: need oil routing diagram for 1989 harley davidson

Little tip -The only time the oil cooler will cool is when the bike is moving and when the bike is moving you don't need the oil cooler. This is from a factory harley tech.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

wd4ity
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SOURCE: assy of starter clutch on 2003 Harley Davidson

The starter on a late model Harley is a typical Nippondenso gear reduction type starter. They are all basically the same except for size.
To replace the starter clutch inside the starter assembly requires disassembly of the starter assembly.

I you will contact me directly, I will scan the procedure and drawings out of a service manual for you.

wd4ity@bellsouth.net

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

wd4ity
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SOURCE: How do you adjust clutch on 2004 Harley Davidson

Get the bike standing as straight up as you can without danger of it falling over. This keeps any oil from running out of the primary. Remove the "derby cover" from the outer primary cover giving you access to the clutch adjuster screw in the center of the clutch pressure plate in the primary.

On the clutch cable, slide the rubber boot up or down to expose the adjuster in the cable. It should be on the down tubes of the frame under the fuel tanks. Loosen the lock nut and screw the cable adjuster in as far as it will go thus shortening the cable.

At the clutch back in the primary cover, you'll see a screw that takes a hex allen wrench with a lock nut on it in the center of the clutch pressure plate. Loosen the lock nut and back it off a bit. Screw the screw inwards until you feel a resistance. You want to adjust this in until you feel a resistance, not to the point to where it starts releasing the clutch. Back the screw back out and do this enough times so that you know you are just going to the point of resistance. Turn the screw inward until you get to the point of resistance and then back the screw out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the nut down.

Now, adjust the clutch cable adjuster out making the cable longer You want to adjust the cable until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the cable lock nut and slide the rubber cover over the adjuster. Test ride the bike. If the clutch does not engage exactly where you want it, use the cable adjuster to fine tune where the clutch engages by lengthing or shortening the cable.

Posted on Oct 24, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: clutch cable broke at handle lever on 1979 harley davidson sporst

To change the clutch cable on you '79 Sporty, you'll have to take the outer primary cover off. To do this, you'll have to drain the oil from the primary, take the left side foot peg off, and loosen the primary chain adjuster on the bottom side of the primary. Loosen the locknut and use an allen wrench or hex key to screw the adjuster bolt downward.

If you need to know anything else, drop me a line at wd4ity@bellsouth.net

Then, remove the large "plug" towards the rear of the cover. Inside, you'll see something that looks like a nut but with no threads in it held in by a small spring. This the the lock nut, remove it. Below it is what looks like another nut with a slotted adjuster bolt sticking out. Remover the bolts from around the primary cover and break it loose from the engine. While turning the adjuster screw at the rear of the cover inward, remove the cover.

The cable connects to the cluch release mechanism. By turning the "link" downwards, you can disconnect it from the mechanism. Notice which way the "link" in attached to the release mechanism. Take the "link" off the end of the clutch cable.

Break the lock nut loose at the threaded cable adjuster on the outside of the case and screw the adjuster all the way out of the primary cover. Disconnect the cable at the handlebar lever and your cable is out.

Reinstall the new cable in the reverse order. When replacing the outer primary cover, make sure you use a new gasket on the cover as well as on the foot peg boss. The "foot peg boss gasket" is very important. You'll see an aluminum boss with a threaded rod sticking out of it that holds your left foot peg on. There is a round gasket that goes over this threaded rod and seals against the boss. If you leave this off, your bike will leak oil around this threaded rod when your foot peg goes on. Make sure you specifically ask for the "foot peg boss gasket" when you buy the new primary gasket. It's just a round gasket a bit larger than a quarter.

As you put the primary cover back on, there is a spring on the primary chain adjuster. Part of the spring is in the primary cover and the other part is in the engine. You'll see how it goes in. There is a large stud in that area that the outer primary cover slides up on. Adjust the tension on the primary chain by removing the "plug" at the top of the primary cover. You want 3/4" to 7/8" up and down play in the chain with the engine cold.

On the adjuster, as you're installing the outer cover, turn the ajuster screw back into the clutch release mechanism by turning the screw backwards. Once you have the outer primary cover completely installed, you must adjust the release mechanism. Adjust the screw inwards until you feel a resistance, then back the screw off about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, insert the "lock nut" and spring, and install the "plug". Then, using the cable adjuster on the outside of the cover, adjust the cable. Add oil.

Posted on Oct 26, 2009

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