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You have a couple of different things going on here. Check the brake rotor runout max spec is .008ths and more than likely it is warped and out of spec. You will also now have to change brake pads and also change your brake fluid. You may also have to change the master cylinder. You should also pull the brake pedal of and clean and lube pedal bushing.
You didn't say what year and model your bike is but on all H-D bike the shifter position is adjustable. Take the bolt out and pull the shifiter off the splines. Mark it before you do. Change the angle up or down one spline and try it. If it's a Big Twin, sometimes you can get a bit of adjustment at the shifter reach rod as well. As for the brake pedal, there isn't a lot of adjustment but you can look at the return stop. Sometimes the bikes are equipped with a bolt that acts as a stop for when the pedal returns. Depends on the model of the bike.
I'm pretty sure that model has the master cylinder under the floor board on the right side. The brake fluid reservior is in on the down tubes in the front of the frame behind the front wheel. Follow the tube from that reserviour down to where ever the master cylinder is. You'll find it.
Not sure what ADMENT means. Front and rear brakes are separate, as should be for safety. Not sure where the master cylinder is, I have a softail, but sounds like could be low on brake fluid, leaky or bad master cylinder or air in the line. If master cyl is bad, there will be fluid all over it. I would suggest taking it to a shop unless you are handy. Make sure you use the right brake fluid, very very important!
Is your rear rotor warped? if the rotor is warped it will push the pads out causing you to have to pump them to stop.Remember the dot 5 is aeroscopic. if you shake or drop the bottle of fluid, you cannot use it for at least 24 hours. it will continue to create air in itself for that long. so even if you bleed the system correctly it will continue to introduce air into the system.
i too had this problem .....dnt worry just remove the brake cable and lubricate it with some spray like ABRO or WD40 lubricating spray then you sprayed some in the cable.play with it pull it forward and push it backward.,lubricate and repeat the steps till you find the cable goes smoother...you know it usually happens due to dust and dirt which enters the cable n get it stuck,try this n tell me..
I would check the master cylinder mounting to see if something is loose that might allow the brake pedal to move without activating the piston. If everything looks and feels tight I would remove the rear wheel and inspect the brake pads and caliper closely. If nothing seems amiss yet I would rebuild the brake caliper, the kit is very simple. Make sure to clean everything well and inspect the brake pistons for burrs that may be interfering with normal operation.
Could your pads be a little tight on the rear wheel, causing your rear brake to heat up and boiling the brake fluid? If you can raise the rear wheel in the air and turn it there should be little resistance while in neutral. Some slight rubbing of the pads on the disc is normal but if the wheel comes to a stop quickly when given a gentle spin they may be rubbing too much and the caliper needs to be rebuilt.