Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The torque specs are the same as with any Evolution engine. The compensator sprocket 150-165 foot pounds.
Clutch hub nut (left handed threads) 60-80 foot pounds.
Use Loctite 271 on threads. Two lines in nut on Compensator and one line in clutch hub nut.
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
The final drive belt can be replaced using regular tools for the most part. You will need a way to "Lock" the primary chain so you can retorque the compensator sprocket nut and the clutch hub nut. The clutch hub nut is left handed threads so you'll need a torque wrench that will torque left handed fasteners.
First, disconnect the battery. To start with, you're going to have to pull the outer and inner primary cases to get to the belt. This means that all of the clutch components are going to have to come out. This can be done at home if you have a good (I mean good) air wrench. The compensator sprocket (engine sprocket, right hand thread) is Loctited at 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch hub nut is torqued to 60-80 foot pounds left handed thread. Make sure your torque wrench will work with left handed threaded fasteners. Take the starter "jack shaft" off. You'll have to remove the starter as well to get the inner primary off. On the FLHTC, I think there is one bolt on the back side of the inner primary with a large braided ground ******** it. This bolt must come out if it's there. Without going outside and getting a book, I think there are four bolts on the engine end of the inner primary, the two starter bolts (3/8" socket head bolts), two bolts or nuts on the inside at the transmission end, and the one bolt down low on the backside of the inner primary. The inner primary should come off easily once you get all the bolts out. You should not have to pry it off. If it doesn't come off easily, double check for bolts that you may have missed.
Once you remove the clutch assembly, you will see the clutch release rod sticking out of the mainshaft. If you pull on this shaft and it comes out, you'll have to pull the right side of the transmission cover to reinstall the clutch release bearing (throwout bearing). It's held on by a very small circlip. If the rod pulls out, the circlip has come off and the throwout bearing has fallen down into the bottom of that chrome cover on the right hand side of the transmission.
Once you get the inner primary off, you will see the front belt pulley. Now, you must remover the rear wheel and the swing arm to get the belt off. You'll need to raise the rear wheel and support the bike with the rear wheel off the ground. You'll need to support the transmission as well since the swingarm acts as the rear motor mount on the transmission. The rubber bushings in the swingarm may have to be repostioned in order to get the swing arm back into position. I use a piece of theaded rod, a couple of nuts and a couple of large washers. I put the threaded rod through the swing arm with the washers and nuts inbetween the bushings. Use the nuts and washer to "press" the bushing towards the outside of the swingarm, spread the bushings so the swingarm will go back into position.
Now, you can work the old belt out. It is much easier if you can get the front belt pulley off but this requires some special tools. A "pulley locking device" and a front pulley locknut wrench. The front pulley locknut is left handed thread and torques to 125 foot pounds with red Loctite. Work the new belt into position and get the swingarm through it. Do not bend the new belt in a radius any smaller than about 4". Doing so will damage the belt and cause premature breakage. Reinstall everything in reverse order.
When you torque the compensator sprocket and the clutch nut, you will have to use a "locking bar" to lock the engine sprocket and clutch outer drum to prevent them from turning while you torque the two nuts. The engine does not have enough resistance to allow you to torque the nuts. Use two lines of Loctite 271 (red) in the compensator nut (right hand thread) and one line in the clutch hub nut, Left handed thread. Torque to specs I gave you in the second paragraph.
Check for proper clutch operation, proper final belt tension, proper rear brake operation before riding the bike. As you can see, this isn't exactly a "beginner's" job. It is fairly complicated but it can be done by someone with above average mechanical skills. I would suggest purchasing a service manual specifically for the bike you're working on.
Posted on Sep 27, 2009
On a Big Twin, you must pull the entire primary drive off the engine.
Disconnect the battery. Take the outer primary cover off the engine. Remove the compensator (engine sprocket) nut. This nut is very tight and has Loctite thread locker on it. 150-165 foot pounds of torque. You'll need to something to lock the chain up so the engine does not turn while loosening or tightening this nut. We use what is called a "locking bar". Remove the small plate with the screw and locknut in the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the mainshaft nut up inside the clutch assembly. It torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED TREADS. Remove the nut from the primary chain tensioner. Grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the primary drive out of the cover.
Take the small screw out of the center of the jackshaft and remove the starter jackshaft.
From the right side of the bike, remove whatever you have to remove to get to the starter, exhaust pipes or whatever. Disconnect the battery cable and the small wire from the starter. Remove the two bolts holding the starter on inner primary cover.
Go back to the left side of the bike. Remove the four bolts that holds the inner primary to the engine, and the two that hold the primary to the transmission. There's one bolt coming in from the backside that has a braided wire on it on the early models. There may be four bolts holding the inner primary onto the transmission. When you have all the bolts out, the primary will come off easily. If it does not seem to want to come off, you may still have a bolt somewhere. Do not beat on the primary cover with even a rubber hammer. It should come right off.
Now, you'll have to remove the rear wheel, rear shocks, belt guards, and remove the swing arm.
As you can see, it's a pretty involved job on a Big Twin.
Posted on Jul 27, 2010
SOURCE: is there a proper way
The drain plug is on the bottom of the transmission. There are two there and the engine oil drain is the one that is the "most prominent". It's usually on the left front corner of the oil pan. The oil tank takes three quarts when the filter is changed as well. If you don't change the filter add only two quarts and check using the dipstick. Once filled, check the oil using he dipstick while the bike is on the side stand. There are two marks. The upper mark is the "FULL HOT" mark and the lower mark is the "FULL COLD" mark. Do not overfill.
Posted on Aug 23, 2010
SOURCE: I replaced the bearings
Go to http://www.bikebandit.com Look under OEM parts and select your year and model bike. They will have a drawing that shows these parts. You may not find your exact year model so you may have to check for a previous or later year model but you can find a drawing. Maybe it will help.
Posted on Jun 27, 2011
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