Question about 1995 kawasaki ZZR 1100
I have a ZZR 1100D3, Been having clutch problems.Put new master cylinder kit in and now it will not pump up..have bled it about 50 times, gone thru about 5 bottles of brake fluid and still no joy...anyone knows what else can I do..??.. I have back bled it too. @
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Posted on Apr 01, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: bleeding front brakes
Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
SOURCE: Kawasaki front brake problem
you need to bleed the brakes real good you have air in the line or caliper this happens when you disassemble the caliper hope this helps give us a rate
Posted on Jan 01, 2009
SOURCE: bleeding front brakes
Your $7 bleeder kit typically has a near useless one valve in it. Forget the kits such as these, they usually make things confusing for you.
Firts, make sure all teh brake lines are tightly connected and in good condition. If the flexible lines are over 5 years old, conside getting new ones made/fitted. Stainless/braided lines look good but are NOT necessary for any road bike.
All you need is a long piece of clear hose line (fish tank air line tubing usually works well) that fits the top of the bleed nipples very firmly. The hose should be long enough to hang over your handle bars, or be suspended by a wire or string so that the open end is higher than the master cylinder. You can use two such hoses and do both front calipers at the same time if you wish.
First, manouver the handle bars so that the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible, even to the point of undoing the grip clamp and rotating the whole assembly around the handle bars a bit. Then fit the clear hoses to the caliper bleed nipples.
Remove the top of the master cylinder reseviour and make sure the fluid is topped up. Watch this level the whole time, it is important that the fluid level never get below half full or you risk reintroducing air into the brake lines again. Never reuse old fluid, and always filter any new fluid that has been in the brake system before (run it through a new fuel filter if you are that hard up for money) you reuse it.
Then crack open the bleed nipples on the calipers so that you see fluid start to rise up the hoses ( which is why you want clear hoses). You can pump the lever a few times to get things happening quicker, just watch the master fluid level!
Keep pumping the lever and topping up the fluid level until the level in the tubes is at the same level as the master cylinder. Leave the bleeder nipples open and leave the bike alone for an hour.
After an hour, close the bleeder nipples and top up and refit the master cylinder reserviour cover.
Use a jar under each hose to catch the fluid, remove each hose from its bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the jar. Ditch the used fluid.
Reset the grip to its proper position if it was moved and test the brakes. Pump the lever two times and then release the lever for a few minutes ( at least 1 minute) If the brakes are still soft or wont hold pressure ( if you still have to pump the lever to get pressure, dont ride the bike!) then suspect worn master cylinder or buggered seals.
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
SOURCE: brake calipers spongy feel
Does all the usual tricks include wrapping a thick bungee cord around the brake lever and leaving it overnight? That should force any residual air bubbles to the top of the system where the master cylinder should replace them with fluid.
If that does not work try installing some new bleed screws, even speed bleeders.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
SOURCE: zzr gear box
I have been a bike mechanic for over 10 years and never seen this one before. The only thing I can even think of is a broken shift fork. This would let a slider gear wander freely and potentially engage a gear while the bike is already in a different gear. This would account for the rear wheel lock up. The 'tight spot' would probably be a torqued and twisted shaft resulting from the lock up.
The repair will be major surgery on the tranny. Personally, I would replace all shafts, all gears and all shift forks. You don't know and can't just look and see what stress has been put on any individual gear. I would hate to see you put in a few gears, put the engine back in the bike, then find a stressed gear dropping a couple of teeth the first time you hit second. To put it another way, get a new tranny and a new chain. The chain was stressed also. Sorry about the bad news.
Ask the dealer what the cost would be to replace the entire tranny but not the clutch. Now Google ' salvage motorcycles kawasaki ' and see what an entire used engine would cost. Chances are the engine swap that you can do yourself will cost less than the dealer's repair of the current tranny.
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Posted on Mar 28, 2009
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