Question about 2006 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

1 Answer

Noisy valve train 2006 88 cu in flhx

Only 20.000 miles .how do you know when cams going bad?or lifters also are push rods ajustable?

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 39,945 Answers

Hi Jsweeney7, this models valves are non adjustable but you have 4 options:
1. with engine at operating temperature do a quick series of 5 throttle revs to 1000 RPM'S below red line.
2. Try an engine oil additive Liquid Molly Tappet Stop Noise or Risoline Engine Treatment.
3. Cut out stock push rods with bolt cutters, remove suspect lifter, disassemble lifter and clean with carb cleaner and compressed air especially under the lifter check plate, reassemble and install, replace push rods with Taper Lite Adjustable push rods.
4. Buy new lifters.
Good luck and have nice day.

Posted on Jun 06, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Mr BrokRench
  • 1623 Answers

SOURCE: valve noise 2006 road king

Hello redevil67...This is normal for the HD engine, it going to have valve train, top end noise at some point, some as early as 2000 miles. If you take it to the dealer they will try to sell you on worn tappets...key word here SELL..I've seen this many times, dealer replaces componets, 2000 miles later the noise returns.
These are hydraulic valves and as you probably know they operate at zero lash. Personaly, i feel that the problem is that the cams are not hardened properly or machined incorrectly.. When the leading edge of the cam lobes wear to a strange profile it tends to snap the lifter up in the lifter bore. This causes the rest of the valve train to rattle. You hear the noise on top but the culprit makin it, is the cams..Many chose to go with an aftermarket cam, such as an andrews...Another suggestion, is to switch oils. Don't know what you are useing now, but i'm not a fan of dino oil. As the temperature builds the more an oil is stressed. Lucas full synthetic 20w-50 or Mobil1 15w-50 are both excellent for anti-wear and long term protection.
I hope this helps, please rate me a fixya and good luck with your bike.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

joecoolvette
  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: valves tapping and bike is running rough

No there is a cover that slides up on the pushrod tube. Cut a tube in half lengthwise, and you'll have the shape. It's held in place by spring action. (Lift up)

After you remove it, mark the pushrod threads where the adjustment lock nut is. You'll have a ballpark place to refer back to then.
Loosen the adjustment lock nut, turn the adjustment until the pushrod is small enough to tilt to one side, and remove.

Mark each pushrod for where it/they came from. (That is, place them in a holder of some sort, and identify where each one came from, on the holder. I use a square piece of wood with holes drilled in it. Front head- Intake. Front head- Exhaust. Rear head- Intake, and so on)

You'll have new lifter/s, but each rocker arm will be worn to THAT particular pushrod. This is why it's best to keep them in order.

Next is removing the four small bolts that hold the lifter block in place. (Square block that two lifters will be in) There is a gasket under the block, so it may not just lift right up. You may have to use gentle persuasion.
(GENTLE! That wasn't a joke. Don't mar the aluminum case that the lifter block goes into! You'll have an instant oil leak from now on)

Be sure to put some prelube made for this, on the lifters round body, and on the roller on the lifter. A tiny little dab in the center of the lifter where the pushrod sits, doesn't hurt either.
1.New gasket for the lifter block.
2.New pushrod tube seals
Don't replace these, and you'll have spots all over your driveway. (Replace even if the pushrod tube seals look good)

Posted on Sep 02, 2009

  • 269 Answers

SOURCE: engine noise

If you dd not torque the front sprocket down correctly you could have an issue. If this is a new noise then be concerned, if this has progressed over time, then it is more than likely just the bike loosening up. Which is normal...but loud, could this be pre-detonation, did you make the correct adjustments to your MAP? Check you push rod adjustment with the bike cold, I mean Artic overnight not running cold.

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

  • 221 Answers

SOURCE: push rod cover installation

What they mean by the base is the base circle of the cam.So at TDCC you are at base with little pressure on the rockers,so they can be removed.So if you have only removed the covers there is no need for anything except to put your cover back on.

Posted on Mar 19, 2010

Testimonial: "Exactly what I needed to know. It was broken down to very simple tems. Thanks a ton"

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: front lifter wont load up

Either your lifters aren't adjust right, or you have a a timeing issue

Posted on Nov 19, 2010

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If ticking sound don't go away after flushing oil change is there a need to repair engine


Ticking sound is typical of slack in the valve train. Try using a wood dowell "stethescope" and touch it to the rocker arm cover over each cylinder. If a rocker arm adjustment is too slack, you'll hear a clicking sound rather than a muted murmur. If you find the noisy lifter you will need to remove the rocker arm cover and adjust it. CAUTION NOTE - It is possible that a hydraulic lifter may have some grit in the internal valve. That would stop the lifter from functioning properly.

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2001 ectraglide standard ticking noise on decel sounds like valves ticking any ideas 63000 miles cam tensioners?


Hi Anonymous, your push rods are non adjustable but you do have 4 options:
1. with engine at operating temperature do a quick series of 5 throttle revs to 1000 RPM'S below red line.
2. Try an engine oil additive Liquid Molly Tappet Stop Noise or Risoline Engine Treatment.
3. Cut out stock push rods with bolt cutters, remove suspect lifter, disassemble lifter and clean with carb cleaner and compressed air especially under the lifter check plate, reassemble and install, replace push rods with Taper Lite Adjustable push rods.
4. Buy new lifters.
Good luck and have nice day.

Apr 10, 2013 | 2001 Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide...

1 Answer

2006 street glide flhx. noisey valve train .geting worse.only 20.000 miles .just started in the last 2000 miles. are push rod ajustable? how can you tell if cam teniture is bad?


The stock pushrods are not adjustable. Screamin' Eagle pushrods from Harley are adjustable. To check the cam tensioners, you have to remove the cam cover on the right side of the motor to see the tensioners. You will need a flashlight to see the tensioner on the back side of the cam plate. If the plastic on the tensioners show excesssive wear, replace them. They typically need replacement after about 30,000 miles, but I've replaced them at 20,000 to 60,000+. I just put new ones in my Fatboy at 32,000. Have you recently changed from conventional oil to synthetic? This can give you a bit more valvetrain noise, due to the thinnner synthetic oil.

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Yes, you're right, those could be the cause. Also, possible it's a collapsed hydraulic valve lifter, if your car has hydraulic operated (from engine oil) valve lifters. At any rate, it sounds like something loose in the valve train-valve lifter with push rod engines; or cam followers {rocker arms) with overhead cam engines that push on the top of valve stems .
Check a repair manual to see if your engine has valves that can be and need adjusting. Engines with valve lifters do not require periodic adjustment for proper valve clearance. Engines with rocker arms do require checking the valve clearance every couple of years or so.

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I need to know how to ajust the valves on a1977 Harley Davidson. 1000 iron head


No adj valves .. they have hydraulic lifters ,,now the push rods may be the adj type..but if engine stock push rods not adjustable..

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What can cause a knocking at the right hand side valve cover


Hi , usually a knocking / pinging from the valve cover indicates a lifter tapping. Could be worn out or just worn. Do you change your oil every 3000 with high quality oil? (I always have used valvoline standard with outstanding results) Dirty oil and filter and or incorect weight oil and or using synthetic oil in older cars can result in lifters tapping. If your oil is under 2000 miles since last change and you used a high quality oil (watch who changes your oil, some places use inferior oil because its cheaper) you can buy a pint of oil treatment formula to quiet noisy lifters to coat the lifter and quiet it down. It is a sign of engine wear, but one lifter tapping a bit wont really hurt your engine mechanically. If they all get noisy, time for a valve job. Root cause is wear due to insufficient lubrication. The lifters on newer cars are all hydraulic and they self adjust. No manual adjustment is possible. Bottom line: keep your oil changed regularly using a high quality non-synthetic oil for your 1999 vehicle.
Please rate this answer! Thanks, Mike

Jun 14, 2011 | 1999 Ford Expedition

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My 1998 Buick Lesabre ,I just had an oil change, it just developed has noisy lifters. Also the antifreeze reservoir is always losing the fluid, I am always refilling.


Suggest you check your exhaust on startup, is it very steamed up. Unless you see fluid on the ground after you have been driving, it may be being burnt inside the engine via a leaking head gasket, causing part of the head to misfire, 1 or 2 cyls. Is the oil milky? a sure sign of a leaking manifold gasket. At the end of the day, the coolant must be going somewhere, if its not on the floor, its in the head/manifold. A manifold leak is not so bad, Head gasket is not so good..worth doing a compression test and block test if you can.Also, change the oil again and put in at lest 10W-30 weight, your car is too old for 5/20 5/30...Hope that helps..Tim

May 26, 2010 | 1998 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

Oil pressure is fine. Oiling only to the pass side valve train.


The 3.1/3.4 engines are built the same way. The oil goes through the cam bearings then to the lifters, then the push rods to the rocker arms. The last engine I seen that had a weird problem had the cam bearings spun. Unfortunately there is no easy way to check for this problem short of disassembling the engine.

The other possibility would be bad lifters but loosing half of the engine lifters wouldn't be possible. Sometimes the pushrods wear on the contact areas also but not usually half an engine.

This isn't going to be easy, Good luck.

Nov 02, 2009 | 2005 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

Valve noise 2006 road king


Hello redevil67...This is normal for the HD engine, it going to have valve train, top end noise at some point, some as early as 2000 miles. If you take it to the dealer they will try to sell you on worn tappets...key word here SELL..I've seen this many times, dealer replaces componets, 2000 miles later the noise returns.
These are hydraulic valves and as you probably know they operate at zero lash. Personaly, i feel that the problem is that the cams are not hardened properly or machined incorrectly.. When the leading edge of the cam lobes wear to a strange profile it tends to snap the lifter up in the lifter bore. This causes the rest of the valve train to rattle. You hear the noise on top but the culprit makin it, is the cams..Many chose to go with an aftermarket cam, such as an andrews...Another suggestion, is to switch oils. Don't know what you are useing now, but i'm not a fan of dino oil. As the temperature builds the more an oil is stressed. Lucas full synthetic 20w-50 or Mobil1 15w-50 are both excellent for anti-wear and long term protection.
I hope this helps, please rate me a fixya and good luck with your bike.

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Noise in Engine


Try these for valve train noise:

1. Low oil pressure caused by oil feed pump not functioning
properly or oil passages obstructed.
2. Faulty hydraulic lifter(s).
3. Bent push rod(s).
4. Incorrect push rod length.
5. Rocker arm binding on shaft.
6. Valve sticking in guide.
7. Chain tensioning spring or shoe worn.
8. Cam(s), cam gear(s) or cam bushing(s) worn.
9. Cam timing incorrect.

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