Question about 2006 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide
Only 20.000 miles .how do you know when cams going bad?or lifters also are push rods ajustable?
Hi Jsweeney7, this models valves are non adjustable but you have 4 options:
1. with engine at operating temperature do a quick series of 5 throttle revs to 1000 RPM'S below red line.
2. Try an engine oil additive Liquid Molly Tappet Stop Noise or Risoline Engine Treatment.
3. Cut out stock push rods with bolt cutters, remove suspect lifter, disassemble lifter and clean with carb cleaner and compressed air especially under the lifter check plate, reassemble and install, replace push rods with Taper Lite Adjustable push rods.
4. Buy new lifters.
Good luck and have nice day.
Posted on Jun 06, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: valve noise 2006 road king
Hello redevil67...This is normal for the HD engine, it going to have valve train, top end noise at some point, some as early as 2000 miles. If you take it to the dealer they will try to sell you on worn tappets...key word here SELL..I've seen this many times, dealer replaces componets, 2000 miles later the noise returns.
These are hydraulic valves and as you probably know they operate at zero lash. Personaly, i feel that the problem is that the cams are not hardened properly or machined incorrectly.. When the leading edge of the cam lobes wear to a strange profile it tends to snap the lifter up in the lifter bore. This causes the rest of the valve train to rattle. You hear the noise on top but the culprit makin it, is the cams..Many chose to go with an aftermarket cam, such as an andrews...Another suggestion, is to switch oils. Don't know what you are useing now, but i'm not a fan of dino oil. As the temperature builds the more an oil is stressed. Lucas full synthetic 20w-50 or Mobil1 15w-50 are both excellent for anti-wear and long term protection.
I hope this helps, please rate me a fixya and good luck with your bike.
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
No there is a cover that slides up on the pushrod tube. Cut a tube in half lengthwise, and you'll have the shape. It's held in place by spring action. (Lift up)
After you remove it, mark the pushrod threads where the adjustment lock nut is. You'll have a ballpark place to refer back to then.
Loosen the adjustment lock nut, turn the adjustment until the pushrod is small enough to tilt to one side, and remove.
Mark each pushrod for where it/they came from. (That is, place them in a holder of some sort, and identify where each one came from, on the holder. I use a square piece of wood with holes drilled in it. Front head- Intake. Front head- Exhaust. Rear head- Intake, and so on)
You'll have new lifter/s, but each rocker arm will be worn to THAT particular pushrod. This is why it's best to keep them in order.
Next is removing the four small bolts that hold the lifter block in place. (Square block that two lifters will be in) There is a gasket under the block, so it may not just lift right up. You may have to use gentle persuasion.
(GENTLE! That wasn't a joke. Don't mar the aluminum case that the lifter block goes into! You'll have an instant oil leak from now on)
Be sure to put some prelube made for this, on the lifters round body, and on the roller on the lifter. A tiny little dab in the center of the lifter where the pushrod sits, doesn't hurt either.
1.New gasket for the lifter block.
2.New pushrod tube seals
Don't replace these, and you'll have spots all over your driveway. (Replace even if the pushrod tube seals look good)
Posted on Sep 02, 2009
SOURCE: engine noise
If you dd not torque the front sprocket down correctly you could have an issue. If this is a new noise then be concerned, if this has progressed over time, then it is more than likely just the bike loosening up. Which is normal...but loud, could this be pre-detonation, did you make the correct adjustments to your MAP? Check you push rod adjustment with the bike cold, I mean Artic overnight not running cold.
Posted on Oct 07, 2009
SOURCE: push rod cover installation
What they mean by the base is the base circle of the cam.So at TDCC you are at base with little pressure on the rockers,so they can be removed.So if you have only removed the covers there is no need for anything except to put your cover back on.
Posted on Mar 19, 2010
Testimonial: "Exactly what I needed to know. It was broken down to very simple tems. Thanks a ton"
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