On what direction goes the piston's arrow?

The piston crown will have an arrow on it if you clean the carbon off, the arrow always goes towards the exhaust port which puts the ring peg at the inlet.

Instructions hand copied from my old manual
1. Stand motor on flat surface; screw barrel securely into place.
2. Attach flat side of piston onto screw and turn far enough to see 1-2 threads
3. Insert assembled piston/screw in barrel so that notches in piston line up with the ribs in barrel; snap screw into place.
4. Fill barrel with desired mixture, using small amounts at a time and tamping into place with barrel loader; wipe any excess mixture from exterior of barrel
5. Select desired cookie disc or tip; place on filled barrel
6. Attach cap to barrel; tighten securely in place. Note: machine may be operated with barrel partially filled
Note: If cookies do not cut off properly even though dough consistency is correct, make sure the 3 feet of the barrel cap touch the cookie sheet each time in order to form the cookie. As the gun is lifted, the flow of dough is cut, forming the cookie on the sheet.

If you don't see any oil under or on the outside of the engine then it has to be burning it thru the exhuast due to worn piston rings or piston rings that have'nt seated yet.

Assuming you have your pistons facing forward correctly, the caps should have locating pins or an arrow you can face forward. A shop manual would be a big help here,probably. don-ohio

With wishing to be rude Lee, if you don't know how to get a piston barrel, you shouldn't be attempting to replace it yourself.
Ring your local Kawasaki dealer.

On the front you go buy a large C-Clamp
& use one old pad against the caliper piston

On the rear you need a tool to turn the parking
brake in while pushing the piston in

On the back you need to open the bleeder valve
to make it easier

You should be flushing your brake fluid on ALL
your vehicles every 2 years

You don't put on new pads without machining or
replacing the rotors & you have to remove ALL
rust from caliper & pad abutments & sliding surfaces
and put anti-seize on contact & sliding points

I checked my clamp --it is a craftsman 4" from
Sears Hardware

On the back you get the small cube from the auto parts
store & choose the side with the two smallest pins
& file flats on the outside of them to fit the caliper
piston. Don't think they make an exact tool for the LS

Ratchet up parking brake in back when done & push pedal
a couple times after beelding with engine running & a helper
to seat pads

On the back the piston notch goes up or the pads won't
go down

G'day. The torque specs for the 8mm head bolts is 18ft/lbs.the jug?(cylinder or barrell) is just tightened down even & firm, as there is no acess for a torque wrench.
OK. other things to note.
Clean the cylinder first in solvent(kero or fuel).Then in warm soapy water in a bucket. Dry-(compressed air is best for this-wear eye protection).once dry lubricate all power valves with oil.
Using a clean white rag-soak the end in your 2 stroke oil & wipe the inside of the cylinder surface untill the rag comes back clean(you will need to do it a couple of times-turn the rag over & do it again).Lube the new piston just before assembly-Also pour a little oil down the main bearing oil holes & over the big end too.
Other things to be sure of are-
Piston on the right way round-arrow to the exhaust.
Rings right way up. Some 2stroke dirtbike rings will only go one way up.Look CLOSELY at the ring ends-on the upper or lower surface there may be an etched dot or "T" or "N" or other marking. the mark goes facing up(on both rings unless single ring piston).
rings positioned with end gaps over the locating pins(the ring grooves have a pin in them to stop the ring turning)
Piston pin clips in correctly.
Powervalve moves freely.
Again-watch when you fit the cylinder-it can be tricky to keep the ring end gaps over the locating pins as you feed the cylinder over the piston.
Hope this all helps
Regards(done this a thousand times)Andrew Porrelli

Hi
Sounds like a broken piston ring, & now its embedded itself into the piston & / or barrel
Remove exhaust pipe & shine a light up into barrel / piston to inspect !!

Ride safe
Bike-Doc
Please mark this as very helpful (if it has been!!) - it helps my ratings

I am pritty sure were talking two stroke here. i would suggest that you have made a mistake on re-assembling the top end.
First remove the head only.
Now try to turn over again.
If it turns over now your head gasket is at fault.
If it is still seized/won't turn over you may have installed the piston backwards(should be arrow to exhaust) or have installed the rings without lining up the end gaps with the locator pins that are in the ring groves.
Check these. If you're sure this is right, remove barrell/piston/rings.
Now check the fit of the piston in the cylinder. Make sure it moves freely & dosn't bind. Now insert the rings (one at a time) into the barrell & check the end gaps.

Hope this helps narrow down the problem.
Regards Andrew Porrelli

hi buddy you obviosly havent put it back together propally restrip it down and check for the following 2 circlips in either side of the piston where the wrist pin is also check the barrel is smooth by rubbing your nail in around the barrel if it feels rough or pumps get some glass paper and rub it around the barrel but dont keep rubbing one side as you will make the barrel oval shaped do it all evenly until its smooth then put the piston rings in the little pin slots on the piston then get some 2 stroke and rub around the barrel also make sure nothing has dropped down inside the crank shaft if so this will jam it up then put the barrel back on