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My pulsar 180 had been standing in the garage for a year. i got the battery charged up, said a prayer and cranked the engine. now, the engine keeps running with the choke on, but as soon as i close th

I have tried letting the engine warm up by letting it run on choke for few minutes, still the problem persists

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  • Motorcycles Master
  • 8,404 Answers

IF you left gas in the carb during that time, it is all gummed up. BEST solution is to have it professionally cleaned. Second best if to run some cleaner through your tank. Get free advice on this at the Pulsar dealer parts department from the guy or gal at the counter.

Posted on Dec 04, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 420 Answers

SOURCE: DR 200 runs really cold. Takes about 15 minutes or so to warm up

It depends on the tempature, if its pretty chilly out yeah. Try easing the choke in slowly, and when it will idle at about half choke go aheand and take off but run the bike easy for a few minutes then close the choke.

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

carlsbiz
  • 1124 Answers

SOURCE: Yamaha TW 200 starts but won't run.

If the bike has sat for a long period of time without being run - the gas that is sitting in the carb(s) will shellac.. Then the carb(s) would need to be cleaned and "rebuilt"..

Posted on Sep 14, 2009

miket756
  • 2702 Answers

SOURCE: i start the engine it will run for a few seconds then dies

its suffering from fule shortage most likley a blocked running jet in the card ,,,strip the card and clean out the jets with comprested air or card cleaner,,, dont go poking wire into the jets to clean them or you could distroy them,,that why it only runs on full choke

Posted on Apr 03, 2010

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: the bikes been sat for

Yes, cleaning the carbs is needed. The main jets are plugged up. Standard factory settings for the air and pilot screws are one and one-half turns outward from a lightly seated position.

Posted on Mar 19, 2011

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2010 Bajaj Pulsar 180 will not start


Hi, Vinod before testing any electrical component in the starter circuit you must have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or better and able to pass a "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts but little or zero amps and the battery must be replaced.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that may or may not be sealed depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK". The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/help-me/25313-pulsar-180-not-starting.html
https://www.quora.com/I-am-not-able-to-start-my-pulsar-180-with-self-start-What-may-be-the-reason-There-is-no-kick-available-in-this-model
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1 Answer

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Hi, Anonymous first perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up a voltmeter to the battery and start the engine, if meter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the voltmeter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
For more information about your issue please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi Anonymous, for more information about your question please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day. DOWNLOAD Bajaj Pulsar 180

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once had the same problem the armature in the starter expands when hot and wont crank cools down and starter works

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Hi Abhishek, I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Bajaj but despair not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi Wanda_vanwyk, I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Bajaj but despair not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
DOWNLOAD Bajaj Pulsar 180

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Hi, Nitindj2010 and the usual suspects are:
1. Voltage regulator/rectifier not grounded.
2. Engine ground wire loose or broken.
3. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier module.
4. Loose or broken wires in charging circuit.
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For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
DOWNLOAD Bajaj Pulsar 180

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Hi Nitindj2010, I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Bajaj but despair not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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