Question about 1993 Honda CB 750 Nighthawk
I just rebuilt the engine and now when I push the starter it just keeps whinding but not firing, I tested spark, compression and fuel and there all good, could this be the relay.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: honda pal 2 stroke scooter
Are you adding oil to the gas? (32/1 = 4 ounces per gallon)
Do you still have spark? Install a new stock spark plug.
Clean the carb, but follow these steps >
Remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Let the bike warm up then set the idle speed. This process should get you back on the road.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
Recommendation is to sell it 'as is'. You may well spend the $325.00 on it and it still not run, requiring still more $. Tell the buyer what the mechanic said and knock that amount off the asking price.
While I trust what the mechanic says, I hear you loud and clear concerning the expense. Cut the expense at the $325.00 point and sell the motorcycle.
That, my friend is my suggestion.
Posted on Dec 18, 2009
SOURCE: Honda V45 magna won't turn over
if the starter is jammed, you can probably get it up on the center stand put it in top gear and **** the rear wheel back and fourth. that may do it. or jumping the starter itself may do it.
Posted on May 28, 2009
When I recently ordered parts from Saber Cycle, they included a piece of information that pertained to my motorcycle, which is also a 1983 Honda Goldwing GL1100 Interstate. Here is what it says, I hope this helps:
Air Cut-Off Valve
The air cut-off valve is an extremely important part of the fuel/air intake system that is frequently missed even my competent mechanics, most of whom are not even aware of its existence or how it functions.
Every GL1000 has one, located in the air intake tube, between the air cleaner box and the manifold. Every GL1100 has four, located in the top air intake passage of each carburetor, and every GL1200 has one located in the plenum box below the air cleaner box similar to the GL1000.
These valves are "air blockers", along with the carburetor o-rings, serving to restrict air flow and increase the fuel/air mixture ratio when the carb slides are in the lower RPM range, up to closed so that the machine will start and idle smoothly with virtually no choking and accelerate rapidly, with no stumble or hesitation.
When typical starting requires heavy and prolonged choking to keep the bike running, when stalling and hesitation occurs even while "warmed up" and when backfiring pops while the throttle is shut off while cruising, most people will start fooling with the air screws to try to overcome the problem, only making it worse along with reducing their gas mileage.
Running with dysfunctional air cut-off valves can causes severe engine damage or failure. When the valves are dysfunctional, the engine pulls nearly total air in the low RPM range through the carbs and on to the combustion chamber. The fuel/air ratio is extremely poor with pre-ignition long before the normal 38 to 40 degree firing point, generating an enormous amount of heat, with no power, which is trapped a longer period of time in the cylinder before the exhaust valve opens.
This heat goes mostly up through the cylinder head, gradually incinerating the head gaskets and allowing engine coolant (anti-freeze) to seep into the engine. You can easily spot when you are in trouble by a puff of bluish-white or white smoke on first starting the engine. Don't leave it alone. Change head gaskets immediately or you could take out your bottom end bearings, ruining the engine.
For those of you installing new exhaust systems, you will discolor your headpipes, either blue (lean state) or gold (rich state). You can destain your pipes using "blueaway" or "blue-off" but be careful not to rub the chrome, just dab gently.k These compounds are usually purchased at a Harley dealer or Harley oriented aftermarket shop.
Honda genuine pipes, like many Yamaha pipes, have a double wall for a portion of the headpipe which masks this discoloration-but also masks a bad state of tune. Even if your pipes are original and still in good shape, don't think that you are OK if the bike has any or all of the dysfunctional air cut-off valve running and performance characteristics.
If your 1975 to 1987 Gold Wing is not getting 50-58 miles per gallon (20-23 KM/Liter), you have one of the most obvious signs of trouble. It is likely your air screws have been backed out to try overcome the effects of the poor running, stumbling, starting and stalling and quitting.
Resynchronize all four carbs to the #3 carb vacuum level using mercury carb sticks or vacuum dial gauges. Stay with strict use of the setting levels in either the Honda, Clymer or Haynes manuals. Do not attempt to tune any other way! Guessing will not work and can cause considerable engine damage!!!
Posted on Sep 26, 2009
First check if the current is coming from ignition coil....
If YES ... then the spark plug is burnt(shorted) Get new plugs.
If NO... then there could be a problem with the ignition coil itself Or the coil in the dynamo is burnt.... Regards
Posted on Feb 23, 2010
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