Question about 2001 Buell Blast
Lately, my Blast has been sputterring when the RPM is low, and would even stall if it falls too low. I had plans to take it to be serviced tomorrow, since I worked yesterday and today, but lo and behold - On the way to work this morning, I felt a sudden release from the engine as it died. I rolled to a stop and tried to start it. Usually, the starter sounds firm, but now, how do I describe it... It sounds hollow? Thin? Like something came loose or fell off. Nonetheless, the bike will not start whatsoever. Any ideas on what the issue is, and a guess as to how much the damage will set me back?
On the Buell Blasts, there is a rubber boot that goes between the carburetor and the intake where it bolts onto the cylinder head. I always just plan on replacing this once a year because they crack which starts letting air causing a lean condition. Things you'll notice is:
As the crack gets worse, it will even get to the point that it will start sputtering driving down the road but lower RPMs are fine. Then it won't even run as it gets worse.
The part is very easy to replace yourself, and will cost you around $30. Make sure not to over tighten the hose clamps because they tend to dig into the rubber boot causing it to crack even sooner.
To test my theory, if you can get it running, spray some carburetor cleaner around the base of the carburetor near and on the rubber boot. If the boot is bad, this will affect your rpms or even cause it to die because it is getting in through a crack in the boot. That is if you aren't spraying it near the air filter... you can get a plastic tube to direct the carb cleaner exactly where you want to spray.
Posted on Dec 21, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
make sure carb is cleaned properly, throttle cables adjusted properly, idle is set properly all of this iaw a buell service manual! Buell Blasts do not have a sump; the oil after it has warmed is the actual level; after it sits a few days the oil "sumps" into the crankcase and indicates a low or in your case a proper level. this is a common occurance on HDxl motors and buells. the proper way to check your oil is after the bike is warmed and either on the stand or upright and level depending on year and model. Refer to your owners manual or service manual. if carb is cleaned and adjusted properly investigate for intake leaks. main jet doesn't contribute to fuel delivery until about 2500+ rpm on the blast; if it is stalling before that point check slow jet; you will theoretically be checking/cleaning all jets and the vacuum piston/ diaphram. engines are engines, however all brands have specific nuances and should be worked on by make specific techs. if you are planning on doing your own work get a manual, you will be surprised how much you learn and how easy it will be....T
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
If starts fine and idles,pilot jets are operating,if bogs under power,check air filter first..no filter to lean...dirty filter to rich.Check fuel filter for unrestricted flow.Have the feul/air mixture screws been turned? Factory is 1 1/2 turns out from bottom
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
Either fuel filter is clogged or air filter is clogged or carb/fuel injectors need to be thuroughly cleaned
Posted on Oct 12, 2009
Testimonial: "It ended up being the Carb needed a good cleaning. Thanks!! J"
Some early 2008 models have issues with the Idle Air Control motor that can cause those symptoms. This would be covered for replacement under warranty.
These symptoms could also be an intake leak.
Posted on May 28, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
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Stalls and Stops While Driving? http://whatisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/05/1994-toyota-4runner-stalls-and-stops.html
No Idle and Stalling issues? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/04/ford-maverick-no-idle-and-stalling.html
Vehicle starts then stalls and shutdown? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/04/1992-chevrolet-stalls-and-shutdown.html
Engine stalls when gas is given? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/01/engine-stalls-when-gas-is-given.html
This will help.
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