Question about 2000 Yamaha FZX 250 Zeal

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Charging voltage to high, cooking batteries and head lights

Battery is charging at 18 volts

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Yamaha Master
  • 40,013 Answers

Hi, Anonymous you may need a new voltage regulator the following is a comprehensive charging system test that I found on a Rider Groups website 1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf
Electrical issue and fault finding chart
Yamaha zeal 250 service manual
Manuals Data Zealous
OEM parts for Yamaha

Posted on Feb 04, 2017

6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Yamaha FZR 600 not charging correctly with the lights on

I HAD THE SAME ISSUE. CHECK YOUR VOLTAGE OFF O THE MAGNETO, IT SHOULD BE IN THE 25V RANGE. IF THAT CHECKS OUT OK CK THE VOLTAGE IMEDIATLY AFTER THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR, I BET IT IS BELOW 14V. THE FZR IS PRONE TO HAVING THE REGULATOR GO BAD (THE OLDER ONES HAVE NO COOLING FINS AND THEY BURN THEMSELVES UP). THE BEST ONE TO BUY IS THE NEWER VERSION FROM A 1999 FZR, IT HAS COOLING FINS WHICH GREATLY PROLONGS THE LIFE. YOU HAVE TO DO SOME SLIGHT WIRING MODS, BUT NOTHING ANYONE COULDN'T DO. SEARCH FOR FZR REGULATOR UPGRADE AND IT WILL EXPLAIN EVERYTHING! I HOPE THIS HELPS! GOOD LUCK!

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Bike won't start, battery bulged

Chances are it is the rectifier/regulator which is a sealed unit that has to be replaced if faulty. A bad one can cook your battery as well as your light bulbs and wiring. To check this connect a VOM across your battery terminals while the bike is running. If normal you should see about 13.5 volts. If your voltage climbs up to the 18 to 22 volt range or higher you must replace the part before you do further damage. Also be aware of the dangers of over charging a battery as it can explode and cause personal injury. If your battery has been cooked you will have smelled sulfuric acid and the battery will become hot to the touch. If that is the case you will also have to replace the battery as well as it will no longer hold a charge. When this happens the battery will bulge and this is called plate bow. By replacing both the battery and the rectifier/regulator you should be as good as new. In very rare instances it could be the stator which could cost a lot more but chances are its just the rectifier/regulator. I've seen them for very cheap prices on Ebay.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: battery not charging

battery is loss

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

  • 921 Answers

SOURCE: Battery not being charged

voltage regulator may not be charging...gain access to battery and take reading with key off ..should read 12.6v or better...then turn on key and see if lights put on a load and voltage drops..then start engine and crank to 300rpm and with votmeter you should see it raise uo quickly to about 13.5 or 14v and immediate drop back down to about 13v ,,,if you got a decent battery,,,this will prove that the regulating system works. if not your stator is bad...find the connector to the stator and check any two wires leading to the stator for .1to1ohm this is a good reading, if not stator is bad. you said you had 4v is that correct? because if it is, your battery is shot and needs replacement.

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

protuha
  • 208 Answers

SOURCE: charging system is overcharging the

rectifier (voltage regulator) is responsable for stady 14V suply.
It should be him. Check battery when not conected?!
But I realy think it's rectifier cousing problem!

Posted on Apr 08, 2011

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Recently having problems with my 2000 Fatty not holding charge. What should stator be putting out on voltage meter? Voltage meter climbs as rpms go up, I would presume that this indicates stator ok? Bike...


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