Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLHR-FLHRI Road king
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How to replace Harley Davidson fuel filter on Fuel Injected models Part 1
Harley Davidson Manuals Mark Workshop
Posted on Jun 21, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: fuel pump?
the fuel pump for your 2000 fuel injected road king is located in the fuel tank. you will have to remove the speedometer housing, by first removing the seat, then remove the one small screw near the seat that holds the speedometer housing in place, also remove the small screw at the front of the speedometer housing and lift the housing off the tank and disconnect the wiring that goes to the back of the speedometer. there is a large oval shaped gold in appearance plate on top of the fuel tank. this plate is what the fuel pump is mounted to.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
Sounds like the intake manifold is leaking. The area where the leak usually happens, are those two rubber sleeves that go from the heads, (Cylinder heads) to the intake. Sometimes the clamp/s loosen up. Sometimes these rubber sleeves deteriorate, and cracks form.
This makes the engine backfire, pop, and idle fast.
The added air at the wrong time cause a backfire, when you let off the throttle. The added air causes the engine to pop, because the exhaust valve has sucked up some cold air.
The engine idles fast, because more air is being introduced, and not metered by the injection system.
(The exhaust valve thing. Exhaust valves are supposed to open, and let exhaust out right? Well there is a thing called Valve Overlap.
The Exhaust valve hasn't closed all the way yet, and the Intake valve is opening.
The 4 stroke engine, (Of which a Harley is), has these four strokes.
1.Intake Stroke. Fuel/air is sucked in.
2.Compression Stroke. The piston comes up and squeezes the fuel/air mixture.
3.Combustion Stroke. The spark plug lights the fuel/air mixture off.
4.Exhaust Stroke. The spent gases are expelled out.
Your Road King has one camshaft. There are four cam lobes on it.
Intake, Exhaust, Intake, Exhaust.
If you had the camshaft in your hand, and had the gear end facing you, look down the camshaft. You will see those egg shaped cam lobes. You will notice that No.1 cylinder Intake lobe is facing to the left.
No.1 Exhaust is facing to the right.
If you put a degree wheel on the gear end of the camshaft, and had the No.1 Exhaust lobe ramp nose facing straight up, you would see that it's about 110 degrees, before the Intake lobe ramp at .050 lift, comes into play. (The roller, of your roller lifter has raised the Exhaust valve up .050 inch) There is about 55 degrees before the Exhaust valve hasn't quite shut.
This is okay for normal running. Introduce a vacuum leak, and the surge of extra cold air, makes it pop.
Solution? I suggest checking to see if the clamps on those rubber sleeves are loose. You can also spray WD-40 towards the ends of each rubber sleeve, when the engine is idling, and see if it speeds up. Means, one or more, of those rubber sleeves has deteriorated.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
This is lotsa of fun. First you have 2 bolts, one is at the front of your oil pan the other more towards the rear. the front one is your engine oil the rear one your tranny oil.
First remove or loosen the oil dipstick from the bike. next while on flat ground or on a lift remove the fron screw (it uses a socket or an allen?) use a socket. Drain oil, next comes the messy part. The oil filter is obstructed a little bit by your crank position sensor (CPS) Harley has an oil filter wrench that takes this into account. Lossen the filter about a half to three quarters turn at least. Here is what I do to try to avoid a mess, I take and use to plastic bags from the grocery store, one inside the other. I then basicall try and bag the filter. with the bags on and drip pan below I loosen the filter through the bags until it comes off. There are all sorts of guards you can buy to try and help with the mess, I just haven't had any luck with them. Once you get thefilter out use a lint free rag like an old T-shirt to get any remaining oil off the oil filter housing. Now take a couple drops of new oil, I like to use the Amsoil 10-40 motorcyle oil personally, and smear throughly on the O-ring on the new oil filter, hand tighten the new filter back on. Then using the oil filter wrench of choice tighten it a quarter turn or so. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, makes for a really BAD day. Now go back under the bike and put the plug back in, if you need to clean up use a brake cleaner that will not harm paint (DO NOT SMOKE AROUND THIS STUFF). Since you have replaced the filter you are going to need 4 quarts of oil. Once oil is in place filler cap back on start the bike and do not worry the oil pressure light will come on then flicker than go off, all this happens in 5 seconds or less. Inspect the plug and filter to make sure there are no leaks and you are ready to go.
Posted on Aug 14, 2009
I am having problems viewing the reply but if you have a FLHRCI then to replace the fuel filter you will need to be prepared to put some time into it.
First remove the console off the fuel tank, one nut below speedo and the phillips screw lower close to the seat. You will have a disconnect on the top left side of the fuel tank to disconnect. Then disconnect the vent tube from the tank with a gentle pull & twisting motion. Now the fun part there are ten torx T20 screws you need to remove, but first you must go buy new ones along with the gasket and fuel filter kit. DO NOT reuse the screws. Now for whatever reason they call this piece a canopy, go figure. Once you have your parts go ahead and raise the canopy slightly and twist it to the left a little. Now this can be tricky because there is a spring loaded hng to work here, be care not to over stress any thing. Then you can begin to pull the canopy and components from the tank. You will be limited by the convoluted tubes (hose) attached as to how far you can raise the canopy, if you remove one be careful as where they attach is plastic and breaks....easily sometimes, then you need a $350 part.
Next read and look at the diagrams that come with your new fuel filter to install it. Once done carefully reverse the canopy removal process and tighten the canopy bolts in cross pattern o somewhere between 18-27 in-lbs. Hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
the oil tank is on the bottom of the transmission in your RK. There are two drain plugs. The plug towards the front left of the pan is the oil drain plug. The other one is for the transmission.
Drain the oil, replace the filter, refill with three quarts of oil and you're ready to go. The dipstick has two marks on it. The upper mark is "FULL HOT", and the lower mark is "FULL COLD". Do not overfill.
Don't forget to service the transmission and the primary at their recommended intervals.
Posted on Jul 26, 2010
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