Question about 2001 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Trouble shooting elect. sys. Already cked batt. voltage, and got no change when eng. off or running 12.7 volts. Just need stator output so I can eliminate stator or volt reg. PLZ HELP!!!!!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Use a voltmeter hand held NOT that goofy guage on your dash see if their is a difference. HD can slap a meter on it in a jiffy. Idle should be around 13 AND 2000 RPM 14....I have put regulators in that were bad out of the box...Stater have not had a bad one from the box yet. knock on wood.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
voltage should show 13 volts to 14.5 volts looks like u have regulator fault maybe bad earth on regulator or bad connection on push plugs on the cables from regulator
Posted on Oct 23, 2009
Testimonial: "THANKS USEFUL TO KNOW AS DIDNT HAVE SPECS OF WHAT SHOULD BE CHARGING RATE."
Sounds like you had a cell in the battery short out temporarily. We call this an "intermittent short". Take the battery to an automotive parts house and ask them if they can test the battery for you. If the battery is over two years old, they are subject to do this. The reason, vibration mostly but on some bikes like the Softail that has the battery in the middle of the horseshoe oil tank, heat is a factor as well. Sometimes an intermittent short will not show up in a load test. If it continues to do this, I'd just replace the battery.
The reason I say this is if one cell shorts, the voltage of the battery drops. How much it drops depends on which cell shorts. The battery is made up of six 2-volt cell wired in series. Depending on which cell shorts the voltage out of the battery can vary from nothing to 10 volts when the cell shorts.
Posted on Jun 14, 2010
SOURCE: After leaving the last gas
Ok, let's check the charging system. The battery is easy. Take the battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery is over two years old, it could need replacing.
Once you're sure the battery is good and it is FULLY CHARGED, we can test the rest of the system. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the system. With the battery back in the bike, connect the DVOM across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery, black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 - 15.0 volts.
Now, to test the stator, follow the wires from your regulator down to where it goes into the engine cases. Disconnect the connector and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts down in there. Set you meter's function selector to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each one of the metal contacts down in the engine side of the connector with a meter probe. It makes not difference since we're measuring AC voltage at this point. The meter should read at least 30 volts.
Now, if the alternator (stator test) does not put out at least thirty volts, the stator is bad and needs to be replaced. If the alternator does check good but not enough voltage at the battery, your regulator may be the culprit. Make sure all connections are clean and tight and that the body of the regulator is grounded good. Recheck the test at the battery. If it still fails, replace the regulator.
Now, I've seen may problems such as your's that are intermittant. In other words, the problem is here on minute and gone the next. I fought that on one bike for over a year until we finally replaced the entire charging system and fixed it. If your bike proves to be doing that, you may wish to consider that option. Fix the thing and be done with it. I wouldn't buy the rotor, just the stator and the regulator.
Posted on Aug 31, 2010
Testimonial: "right on with the test procedure. Battery didn't show it was charging. While the stator test showed 30vac, an ohm test showed it was grounded. Thanks "
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