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My honda ps 125 is havin fuel injection problems

The red f1 light is on when im riding and the fuel seems to be struggling to come through its just spluttering and cuts out

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Hi I have a ps 125 have similar issue, but not getting a spark, checked the
wiring and all seems fine, getting volts to coil and stil no spark,
please specify where this c50 clip is located,

thanks

Mark

Posted on Mar 24, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: hi i got an aprilia sonic 50cc moped. the problem

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Posted on Aug 15, 2010

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SOURCE: im not sure if my honda magna is carb or fuel

Hi..my name is Keith...and to answer your question...Yes..you have a VDD2 electronic fuel injection system on your bike..i hope this has helped

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

pugwash814
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SOURCE: aprilllia rs 125 wont idle

some things to try,
adjust the idle using the black knob on the carb,
check air filter is clean,
remove and clean carb

Posted on Oct 24, 2009

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: f1 light comes on, bike dies. Is it air filter,

I am currently dealing with the same issue and have worked a way to figure out how to obtain the code yourself. Then you can cross-reference the code with which sensor is reporting the error.
All newer bikes these days are equipped with a connection point that shops may tap into in order to identify which connector is throwing the flag. The best part about this connection point is that anyone can access it without using any special tools or code readers. You just simply connect two wires together and the code will display in the same spot as the bike's odometer. You don't need to splice or cut or do damage whatsoever to the bike. I have used this technique and was extremely happy to figure it out!
The first thing you have to do is locate this special connector. It is located on the right side of the bike in the same location as the ECU. You only need remove one frame panel in order to gain access. Item labeled "1" in this picture is the panel you need to remove. You need a 6mm allen wrench to remove this panel. The botton right bolt is only for aethetics and will only continue to spin if you try to remove it. So, don't worry about that bolt. After you have the bolts of the panel removed, you will be able to pull the panel right off. There are rubber plugs that keep the panel attached, you just firmly pull and it will come right off.
Once you have the panel off you should see two connectors that are not connected to anything. One of them has a soft, black rubber cap on it. This is the connector you want. There are 4 wires that go into this plug. You only need to be concerned with two of them. There is a black wire with a white stripe, and there is a white wire with a red stripe. You need a paperclip or a small piece of wire. A paperclip would be easier to use. Put one end of the paperclip or wire into the hole of the connector where the black wire is. Then connect the other side of the paperclip or wire to the hole where the white wire is. So, basically, you are connecting the black wire and white wire together. Here is a completed connector for you to reference. This is an exact picture of what your C50 connector will look like. Once you have the paperclip in place, you just turn the bike on and take a look at the odometer. It will display a -C00 (dash, C, zero, zero) for about 2 or 3 seconds, and then it will display the current -C code. Take note of this code and then cross reference it with this list of codes.
C12 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR C13 - INTAKE AIR POSITION SENSOR C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1 C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2 C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3 C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4 C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1 C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2 C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3 C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4 C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (C50's need not worry) C49 - PAIR CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
Once you find out which code is yours, you should always start small. You may just have a blown fuse or a bad sensors. Fuses and sensors are very low cost items and are usually quite easy to replace. I highly recommend doing this yourself before taking it to a dealer where they'll just dilly dally for an hour before getting the code, when you can get the code yourself in about 10 minutes. It may or may not be a bad fuse or sensor, please remember that your bike may have something wrong and the sensor is simply reporting data that exceeds the acceptable range for the bike. So, if you check the fuse and replace the sensor, and the bike still returns the code, you may still need to have a more in-depth look via a dealer/shop.
Let me know how it goes!

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: My gilera runner cuts out. I

i have had the same problem i found that i had to lift the needle in the carb as once it get to hot the engine cuts out and i found by lifting the needle it helps but you will find that the needle has no way of ajustment all i did was use some small washers then put the needle back in the carb to get to the needle you have to remove the big black cover on top of carb

hope this helps good luck

Posted on Sep 25, 2010

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http://www.athenaparts.com/eng/sections/view/128/carbon-fiber-reeds-for-intake-reed-valve/page:6

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http://www.servicerepairmanualonline.com/859/kawasaki-kdx125-kdx-125sr-125-manual/

Spare Parts List
http://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-kdx125-a3-kdx125sr-1992-europe-nr_model11759/partslist/

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Spark Plugs NGK BR8ES
Bulb-Headlight Battery 12v 3Ah
Ignition Timing 10.5BTDC@1300rpm - 26.5BTDC@3000rpm

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Starting kickstart
Carburation Keihin/PE28
Carburation Main Jet 115
Carburation Idle Jet 48
Pilot Screw Setting 1.5
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