Question about 2004 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom

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XL1200C Rear brakes work intermittently

Had my brakes serviced about 6 months ago. ever since, they only work after I stomp on the rear brake lever a few times. What Might be the cause for this happening? Oh, also, I replaced the pads today (because the shop that I had paid to do it 6 months ago FAILED to replace them with pad that I did pay for) to see if that would fix the problem and it didn't, still doing the same thing.

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 448 Answers

Sounds like you may have air in the rear brake lines. Try bleeding the rear brake to solve the problem. Good luck!

Posted on Nov 29, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: replace rear brake pads

Remove right saddlebag, pull the two caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Do not open bleeder or disconnect line. You will need to push a large screwdriver between the old pads before removing them in order to push the pucks back into the caliper or the new pads will not spread enough to reinstall. Then pull the two smaller bolts from the caliper and the pads will fall out. The pads are different for inside and outside, so pay attention, and remember, after reinstalling, before riding, be sure to pump brake pedal, and it may take a few stops before brakes stop as effectively as before.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 149 Answers

SOURCE: how to change brake pads on a 2005 1200 Harley

there is 2 bolts on the caliper take them off and there are pad pins that need to be taken out.. inside the caliper there is a metal clip where the pad sits in.. put them in the same way they came out once you start its pretty self explainatory.. you should not have to blead them

Posted on Aug 30, 2009

bulldogchief
  • 388 Answers

SOURCE: rear brake pad change 07 streetglide

You don't have to but you should pull the caliper anyway, to clean it and check the anti-rattle spring.

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: Want to replace rear brake pads 1995 Harley Fat boy

Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.

To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.

Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.

Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.

Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.

Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!

Posted on Oct 24, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: changing rear brake pads..

if the 04 is the same as my 05 ultra (and i belive it is) the rear caliper can not be removed with out pulling the axel out, and taking the 3 big star bolts out will split the caliper in half, (it is a 2 peice)

take the 2 small star bolts out, use a stiff putty knife to push the pistons back, before you pull the old pads out, make sure you take the cover off the master, slip new pads in, start with the frount and put the bolts thru to hold it then the rear

when you retighten the bolts you want the hear a "pop" that means the rear tip of the bolt is past the retaining spring, if you dont hear a pop the bolts will work there way out, (found this out the hard way, $129 new rotor, $195 new caliper)

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

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How to remove and clean and replace the rear brakes on a 2008Toyota yaris


REMOVING REAR BRAKE DRUM SUB-ASSEMBLY
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help is here:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Drum Removal
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  1. Retract the brake shoes and loosen the brake adjuster screw.
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----------------------
May require big hammer to loosen drum from axle flange. Hit between the the lugs, not on them.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#10 is access plug to back off adjusting wheel.

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Item Part Number Description 1 2261 Rear wheel cylinder 2 — Dust boot (part of 2128) 3 2197 Wheel cylinder piston (part of 2261) 4 — Cup (part of 2128) 5 2204 Wheel cylinder piston cup spring (part of 2128) 6 — Wheel cylinder housing (part of 2261) 7 — Brake shoe hold-down pin 8 — Access hole (part of 2212) 9 — Rear brake bleeder screw (part of 2261) 10 — Access hole plug 11 — Rear wheel cylinder bolt 12 2212 Rear brake backing plate 13 — Rear brake backing plate bolts 14 2N790 Parking brake lever clip 15 — Spring washer 16 — Secondary brake shoe and lining (part of 2200) 17 — Brake shoe hold-down spring (part of 2B514) 18 — Lower retracting spring (part of 2B514) 19 2A637 Parking brake lever 20 — Parking brake lever pin 21 2A177 Brake shoe adjusting lever 22 — Adjuster lever pin (part of 2A177) 23 — Primary brake shoe and lining (part of 2200) 24 — Upper retracting spring (part of 2B514) 25 2041 Brake adjuster screw

--------------
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Take a picture and remember how each part goes and attaches
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  1. Remove the lower retracting spring.
  1. Remove the self-adjuster.
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  1. Remove the hold-down springs.
  1. Remove the parking brake lever clip and the parking brake lever.

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6dcb5d2.gif
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