I would first invest in a service manual for yhe bike. Bikes take a lot of general maint. and not everything is in the owner's maual. Most of the times you can find images on line though. Changing them is pretty easy though.
The caliper holds the pads, and is usually held on by 2 screws. Take those 2 off and remove the caliper. Unscrew the brake pads and remove. Now in order to reinstall the pads, you are going to need something like a C clamp to compress the piston down (behind one of the pads). once compressed, remove the clamp and install the pads. Put the caliper back on and test the brakes. make take a couple of tries to get the piston back into position.
Get the manual first though, really it will help a lot if you plan on keeping this bike.
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Never dealt with motorcycles, still if you are sure that there is no air in the brake liquid, check whether the braking disk/pads are not hooked or (irregularly) worn-out. If this is not the case, replace the braking mechanism (the cylinder which pushes the pads), if too expensive, clean the old one and reassemble with new rubber parts.
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Runs better with choke means the mixture is lean,
Has the exhaust been changed.?
Did this problem just begin.?
Check for air leaks on intake manifold.
Check valve clearances
raise the needle jet one notch
one size up in the main jet.
check one item at a time, and write notes about jetting changes.and improvements
I also run Moreys upper cylnder lube, helps starting hot or cold, and helps stop "cough stopping" with heavy rear brake use
Remove the caliper (brake) take note of the position of the anti-rattle spring, like a thin meatal plate on the edge of the brake pads. May be coverd with a plastic shield.
Then remove the brake pin(s) they cross horizontally through the top edge of the brake pads, usually chrome or gold colour.
The pads will then drop out,take note of any backing plates that may come out with the pads, as it is important that they go back right way up etc.
While the pads are out inspect the brake pistons for rust,pump the brake lever once no more as the piston will come out,big nightmare !!.so be carefull.
clean with soft brush ,then push back with soft metal or hard wood dont damage the rubber.The piston will resist so be patient .
Once the pistons are home,smear the back of the new brake pads with copper grease match head size per pad,and reverse proses to re-fit.
lock-tight caliper retaining bolts and torque to spec.
PUMP BRAKE LEVER BEFORE RIDING OFF as pads will not touch disc first go.give final inspection try brakes while standing next to bike ,then gently bed them in for next 100 miles or they will glase over.
This is by design. When you have new pads on the bike and a rotor within limits the lever has very limited travel before engaging.
As these parts wear the position of which the lever engages changes. Unless you know that at the last brake pad change the caliper was "centered" this could account for the travel and will result in premature wear on the components.
the retail value in good condition is approx $1,500. meaning it looks good, runs good, good tires, breaks,chain and sprokets. but with the extras you have and the after market up grades, i would start with a little higher price.