Question about 1999 Honda CBR 600 F(4)X

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Throttle connection on handle bar

I have changed the right hand side switches and disconnected. the throttle from the twister housing, put it back but cant get it to work right it isnt snapping back to position when twisting the throttle.can any one help thanx bry.

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  • brianconway1 Jan 10, 2009

    thanx mate i will try that


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You may have over tighten the screws. try backing them out then when they are snug give just another 1/4 turn. Try that and see what happens. you may have to open it all back up and make sure that the throttle cable is not binding.

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

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How to change starter switch on Honda VTX 1800 C

There are 2 screws on the lower part of the switch housing, remove these - keep track of each as they are different sizes and must be put back in the same locations.

Separate the housing. One part will lift away, the other (upper) will have the throttle cables running through the housing. You will need to remove the throttle cables from the throttle tube and unscrew the cable from the housing. be sure to note which cable goes over and which goes under the throttle tube - you will need to put these back when you install the new housing. Removing the cables is tricky, take your time and study how the end-piece slides into the openings of the tube. Turning the throttle one way or another adds/removes slack in the throttle cables, you will need to play around a bit to get this figured out.
Again, this is tricky to do. Be sure you do not cut/fray the bare cables.
Once the housing is free from the cables, just unplug the two wires. The new housing plugs right back in - I don't think you can mix these up as they only plug in one way.

Reassemble the rest. A needle-nose pliers and small flat screwdriver are is a third hand.

Oct 17, 2014 | Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do i replace grips on 2009 electra glide ultra classic

For twist grip equipped motorcycles to remove the throttle or right side grip remove the upper and lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar. (To remove the throttle grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release index pins in grip from receptacle in seal cap of twist
grip sensor.)

With throttle cables, to remove the throttle or right side grip slide the rubber boot off of each cable adjuster, loosen the jam nut on each adjuster, turn the adjusters in the direction that will shorten the cable housings to their minimum lengths. THEN remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing, unhook the ferrules and cables from the throttle control grip and the lower housing, (remove friction spring, throttle friction screw and spring from the lower housing only if necessary), (only if and as necessary mark the position of the master cylinder assembly forward position and split line on the handle bars) (to be safe squeeze the front brake lever and place a 5-32 inch thick cardboard insert between brake lever and lever bracket and then release brake lever to hold the lever in this place to protect the brake switch from damage if the switch housing and the master cylinder get separated) (and only if and as necessary, loosen the two perch screws) move the lower switch housing as necessary and remove the grip.

To install the throttle grip apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and the inside surface of the upper and lower housings, (if removed, install the spring, throttle friction screw and friction spring in the lower housing) (and, if removed, attach the cable assemblies to the lower housing), (throttle control cable has a 5-16 inch fitting end and is positioned to the front of the lower housing. and the idle control cable has a 1-4 inch fitting end and is positioned to rear of lower housing. Install the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar, position the lower housing onto the right handlebar, engaging the lower housing with the throttle control grip, position the ferrules over the cable ball ends, seat the ferrules (with the cables attached) into their respective notches of the throttle control grip, install the upper housing over the right side handlebar and secure it to the lower housing with the appropriate two screws and hand tighten them, then align the brake master cylinder and perch assembly with the marks made prior to loosening them, and beginning with top screw, tighten the two screws to 108-132 inch lbs using a T27 TORX drive head and then tighten the upper and lower housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs. THEN point the front wheel straight ahead and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, adjust the throttle and idle cables by turning the adjuster in the direction that will lengthen the cables. Gently twist the throttle control grip to the fully open throttle position (fully counterclockwise) and hold it in this position and turn the throttle control cable adjuster counterclockwise until the throttle cam on the induction module (or carb) contacts the throttle cam stop, release the throttle control grip and turn the adjuster counterclockwise an additional 1-2 to 1 turn and tighten the jam nut on the throttle control cable adjuster. THEN turn the handlebars fully to the right and turn the adjuster on the idle control cable counterclockwise to lengthen the sleeve until the end of the cable housing just touches the spring within the cable guide. NOW check the adjustment by, with the throttle friction screw loosened, twisting and releasing the throttle control grip two or three times. The induction module throttle wheel must return to the idle position each time the throttle grip is released. If the throttle does not return to idle, turn the idle adjuster, shortening the cable sleeve until the correct adjustment is obtained, tighten the jam nut and slide the rubber boots over each cable adjuster. NEXT start the engine and with it idling turn the handlebars through their full range of travel and if the engine speed changes at all during this maneuver, adjust the control cables according to the foregoing procedure so that there is no change in the idle speed when the handlebars are rotated through their entire range of travel.

To remove the clutch or left side grip remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing. Mark the forward position and clutch perch split line on the handlebars and then as necessary loosen the two clutch perch screws and move it out of the way so that you can access the grip end. If you want to save the grip take a small screwdriver with about an eight inch length and insert it into the grip, wiggling it to loosen the glue somewhat and then spray some brake kleen into the space under the grip where the screwdriver blade is inserted and wiggle and twist the screwdriver around to loosen the rest of the grip glue and pull the grip off. Sand down the handle bar area where the grip will rest and apply grip cement to the area and slip the grip on. If the left hand grip is patterned, align it with the pattern on the right hand grip with the throttle in the fully closed position, immediately push the grip completely onto the end of handlebar using a twisting motion. Do not hesitate when installing the grip or the adhesive may dry before installation is complete. Allow 6 to 8 hours to elapse at 70 degrees F to allow the adhesive to fully cure. If a newer non-glue grip is being installed slip it on with the flats properly oriented to fit with the switch housing halves when they are installed. Install the switch housing halves and lightly tighten the two screws and then orient the clutch perch to the previously made alignment marks and beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 108 - 132 inch lbs using a T27 drive head and then tighten the switch housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs.

Sep 20, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do I change my front brake light switch on my 2009 Harley crossbones?

Front brake light switch is in your right handle control assembly. couple little allen wrenchs, small snap ring pliers and a small straight slot screw driver is all you need. Take the front brake lever off, take out screws and open housing, the throttle cable and return has two little clips, be careful not to lose them.. you will see the switch inside, looks like a little black button with a rubber boot over it. take the clip off and pop it out, might need to take the handle bars off to get to the wiring harness for the switch. pop it back in and reassemble....

Oct 25, 2012 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

My throttle won't snap back. I recently packed the end of the handle bars with silicon to help with vibration. Now my throttle sticks and won't snap back right away. How can I fix this?

I'd be willing to bet that you have gotten silicone on the outside of the bars between the handlebar and the throttle sleeve. But, let's try this first. Loosen the two screws that hold the right handlebar switch halves together. Once you get them loose, slide the throttle assembly and the switch housing towards the end of the handlebars about an 1/8" or so. Not much, just a bit to make sure the end of the handlebar is not rubbing inside the throttle grip at the very end. Tighten the screws and try the throttle now. If it works, tighten the two screws securely and loosen the bolts for the front brake master cylinder and slide it down against the handlebar switch housing so you brake light will work correctly.

If this doesn't work, try loosen the cables just a bit. If they're adjusted too tight, the throttle will stick.

If that doesn't work, you'll have to take the throttle sleeve back off the handlebars. Clean out the inside of the sleeve and the handlebars good. Then apply a thin even coat of white lithium grease to the inside of the throttle sleeve and on the outside of the handlebar. Slide the sleeve uo on the handlebar and work it around to make sure it moves absolutely freely. Then reconnect the cables and reassemble the switch housing. Adjust the cables and make sure the throttle works as it should.

Good Luck

Feb 11, 2011 | 2003 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883...

1 Answer

I have a 2008 HD sportster, how do you replace the RH turn signal button? Thanks! Rob

To replace the right hand turn signal button, you have to take the right hand switch housing apart which includes the throttle. Start by loosening both throttle cables at their adjustments. Loosen them all the way. Take mirrors and other stuff off the handlbar that might be in the way. Remove the two bolts that hold the switch housing halves together and carefully lift the top. Disconnect the throttle and idle cable from the throttle sleeve. Remove the throttle sleeve leaving both halves of the switch housing free.

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Once finished. With the engine OFF, turn the throttle wide open and let go of the throttle grip. It should snap shut. If not, you may have the cables adjusted too tightly or the throttle sleeve is up against the end of the handlebar on the inside of the sleeve. The throttle must snap shut in order for the vehicle to be safe. Make sure your throttle works correctly. Failure to do so my result in serios injury or death.

Good Luck

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1 Answer

Harley 1998 ultra wiring schematic headlight works, front/back turn signals work passing lamps switch/lamps do not work front brake activation of brake lights does not work, but foot pedal does. looking...

Sorry but I don't have a wiring diagram that I can send you but I may can offer a bit of help.

Your passing lamps are simply wired into a hot circuit somewhere. A lot of schematics don't show them because they are considered "add ons". They also may have a fuse inline with the "hot" wire. They have only one wire that connects them to the bike with the rest being inside the "light bar" itself. Find the wire coming out of the center of the "light bar" and trace it back to where it hooks up. Sorry but that's the best I can do on this one.

On your front brake light, there is a switch located inside your right hand switch housing where your throttle is located. It is a plunger type switch that is activated when you pull the front brake lever. A simple test of the switch is to loosen the bolts of the master cylinder and slide it towards the center of the handlebars. If the switch is good, the brake light will come on. If the switch is bad, it will not.

To get to the switch, you'll have to take the right hand switch housing apart. First, loosen the throttle cables at the adjusters and then remove the two bolts that hold the switch housing halves together. Carefully open up the switch housing. You will see the small switch in the front of the housing. You'll have to desolder the wires, replace the switch with a new one, and resolder the wires to the new switch.

Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly. Make sure you slide the master cylinder all the way back against the switch housing or the brake light will stay on constantly. Readjust the throttle cables and check for proper operation. You don't want your throttle sticking.

Good Luck

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1 Answer

I have a 96 arctic cat zr 580 efi that runs good at low speed but cuts out at 1/2 throttle. any thoughts

Remove handle bar cover,find 3 wires that come out of the right side throttle,follow them down to where they get just about under the cowling and disconnect them there.Find a wire to jump the 2 outside wires of connector and plug harness back together.This will disable your throttle saftey switch which is most likely the cause of your problem.The center wire is for the kill button on top of bars.

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1 Answer

Cant figure out how to reattach throttle cables after replacing handle bar.

adjust the cables to were they are as loose as possible. one cable should be for snap back and the other for the actual throttle. you will have to put the housing on the bars and the throttle sleeve on the bars, then install the cables in the throttle sleeve.

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Wrong size throttle cable or misadjustment. At the handlebars, I've seen some set that acceleration causes a pull of the cable, I've also seen bikes set to push the cable. Confirm this is set correctly, and that your mechanic used the correct legnth of cable.

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