Question about 1999 Honda CBR 600 F(4)X

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Throttle connection on handle bar

I have changed the right hand side switches and disconnected. the throttle from the twister housing, put it back but cant get it to work right it isnt snapping back to position when twisting the throttle.can any one help thanx bry.

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  • brianconway1 Jan 10, 2009

    thanx mate i will try that

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You may have over tighten the screws. try backing them out then when they are snug give just another 1/4 turn. Try that and see what happens. you may have to open it all back up and make sure that the throttle cable is not binding.

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

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How to put throttle back together.


REQUIRED TOOLS: 10mm T-handle, 8mm T-handle, Phillips-head screwdriver, contact cleaner, 4mm Allen wrench, 10mm box-end wrench, cable lubing tool, cable lube, Pro Circuit Red Lube (or equivalent)

STEP 1:
Start by removing the seat and fuel tank in order to gain the access needed to remove the throttle cables at the carburetor. Next, jump up to the handlebars, pull back the throttle dust cover, and loosen the two bolts that are holding the two halves of the throttle housing together. With the end of the throttle tube now exposed, pull the cable ends (balls) out of the throttle tube. The tube and grip are now free to slide off the end of the bar. Now that everything is apart and exposed, clean the inside of the two throttle housing pieces, the throttle tube, and the ends of the throttle cables with some contact cleaner. Also, clean the handlebar of any dirt and grime that may be present.
STEP 2:
On the right side of the carburetor you'll find a single 4mm Allen bolt that secures a plastic dust cover. Remove the bolt and pop the cover off. With the cover removed, the ends of the two cables can now be accessed. Starting with the top cable, use a 10mm wrench to loosen the lock nut, and the cable end can be pulled off of the carburetor wheel. Repeat this process for the bottom cable. Next, while paying attention to the cable routing, bend back the flexible cable guides that are located on the frame near the headset, and pull the cables up and out of the bike.
STEP 3:
It's time to lube the cables. Because of the hardened metal elbows located near where the cables go into the throttle housing, I recommend lubing the carburetor end of the cables where a cable-lubing tool can be easily fastened. Note: It's important to only use a minimal amount of cable lube. Because these are throttle cables, excess lube will eventually run its way down and into the carburetor. It won't necessarily damage anything, but it will make a mess. Be sure to lube both cables. Holding the cables together, feed them back into the bike from the same spot you pulled them out near the handlebars. Rout them back in so they are tucked up tight against the right side of the frame to keep them out of the way of the fuel tank once it's installed.
STEP 4:
Before putting the throttle assembly back together, we recommend using Pro Circuit Red Lube or an equivalent on all of the moving throttle parts (the inside of the housing pieces and their edges, the balls of the cables and their slots in the throttle tube, etc.). Also, on the inside of the throttle tube put a small amount of cable lube so that it doesn't go on dry against the bar. Because you can put the cables on backwards at the carburetor, start your reassembbly at the handlebar. With the throttle tube on the bar so that the cable ball slots are facing down, slide the cable ends back into the tube, and rout the cables back through the tube tracks. The cables can only go back onto the throttle tube one way. Once in place, line up the two halves of the throttle housings, and get the two Phillips bolts started without tightening them completely. To prevent binding and rubbing, push the tube and housing assembly together until it bottoms out against the end of the bar. Now, back the assembly off the end of the bar 1 to 2mm so that there is proper clearance to twist freely. Now tighten the housing bolts securely.
STEP 5:
Before heading back down to the carburetor, push the throttle tube all the way forward until it stops. This will not only show you which cable to install first at the carb, but will also give you the proper slack needed to do it. At the carburetor, one cable will now be sticking out of the cable housing farther than the other. The longer one (the one with the most slack) is the one you'll start with. It is the bottom or "pull cable. There is a 10mm nut that is thinner (not the locking nut), which slides into the groove on the carb. With the ball of the cable reinstalled on the throttle wheel, and the flat 10mm nut in its housing, tighten the 10mm locking nut to secure the cable. Next, turn the throttle tube back a little bit to take out the excess slack, which in turn will give you the slack needed to install the top or "push cable, and repeat the same process. I like to keep the gap between the 10mm locking nut and the longer 10mm adjusting nuts that are connected to the cable even between the two cables. Because most of the cable adjustment is done at the bar, you don't need a lot of gap (2-3mm) between the locking nut and the adjusting nut of each cable. Once adjusted evenly, reinstall the dust cover and tighten the 4mm Allen bolt.
STEP 6:
If you don't have a personal preference for the amount of throttle play (movement front to back), I recommend about 2-3mm of wiggle, at most. To adjust the play, there's a finger locking nut and an adjusting nut just behind where the cables enter the throttle housing. If you want more slack (play) in your throttle, spin the adjusting nut in toward the throttle. For less slack, back it out. Because it's a push/pull style system, you have to adjust both cables evenly until you get the feel you're looking for. After you've achieved your ideal amount of play, reinstall the fuel tank and the seat. Now that everything is back together, turn your bars from side to side to make sure that the cables aren't binding anywhere, and then recheck the throttle play and adjust again if needed.

Mar 17, 2016 | Garden

1 Answer

How do i replace grips on 2009 electra glide ultra classic


For twist grip equipped motorcycles to remove the throttle or right side grip remove the upper and lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar. (To remove the throttle grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release index pins in grip from receptacle in seal cap of twist
grip sensor.)

With throttle cables, to remove the throttle or right side grip slide the rubber boot off of each cable adjuster, loosen the jam nut on each adjuster, turn the adjusters in the direction that will shorten the cable housings to their minimum lengths. THEN remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing, unhook the ferrules and cables from the throttle control grip and the lower housing, (remove friction spring, throttle friction screw and spring from the lower housing only if necessary), (only if and as necessary mark the position of the master cylinder assembly forward position and split line on the handle bars) (to be safe squeeze the front brake lever and place a 5-32 inch thick cardboard insert between brake lever and lever bracket and then release brake lever to hold the lever in this place to protect the brake switch from damage if the switch housing and the master cylinder get separated) (and only if and as necessary, loosen the two perch screws) move the lower switch housing as necessary and remove the grip.

To install the throttle grip apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and the inside surface of the upper and lower housings, (if removed, install the spring, throttle friction screw and friction spring in the lower housing) (and, if removed, attach the cable assemblies to the lower housing), (throttle control cable has a 5-16 inch fitting end and is positioned to the front of the lower housing. and the idle control cable has a 1-4 inch fitting end and is positioned to rear of lower housing. Install the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar, position the lower housing onto the right handlebar, engaging the lower housing with the throttle control grip, position the ferrules over the cable ball ends, seat the ferrules (with the cables attached) into their respective notches of the throttle control grip, install the upper housing over the right side handlebar and secure it to the lower housing with the appropriate two screws and hand tighten them, then align the brake master cylinder and perch assembly with the marks made prior to loosening them, and beginning with top screw, tighten the two screws to 108-132 inch lbs using a T27 TORX drive head and then tighten the upper and lower housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs. THEN point the front wheel straight ahead and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, adjust the throttle and idle cables by turning the adjuster in the direction that will lengthen the cables. Gently twist the throttle control grip to the fully open throttle position (fully counterclockwise) and hold it in this position and turn the throttle control cable adjuster counterclockwise until the throttle cam on the induction module (or carb) contacts the throttle cam stop, release the throttle control grip and turn the adjuster counterclockwise an additional 1-2 to 1 turn and tighten the jam nut on the throttle control cable adjuster. THEN turn the handlebars fully to the right and turn the adjuster on the idle control cable counterclockwise to lengthen the sleeve until the end of the cable housing just touches the spring within the cable guide. NOW check the adjustment by, with the throttle friction screw loosened, twisting and releasing the throttle control grip two or three times. The induction module throttle wheel must return to the idle position each time the throttle grip is released. If the throttle does not return to idle, turn the idle adjuster, shortening the cable sleeve until the correct adjustment is obtained, tighten the jam nut and slide the rubber boots over each cable adjuster. NEXT start the engine and with it idling turn the handlebars through their full range of travel and if the engine speed changes at all during this maneuver, adjust the control cables according to the foregoing procedure so that there is no change in the idle speed when the handlebars are rotated through their entire range of travel.


To remove the clutch or left side grip remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing. Mark the forward position and clutch perch split line on the handlebars and then as necessary loosen the two clutch perch screws and move it out of the way so that you can access the grip end. If you want to save the grip take a small screwdriver with about an eight inch length and insert it into the grip, wiggling it to loosen the glue somewhat and then spray some brake kleen into the space under the grip where the screwdriver blade is inserted and wiggle and twist the screwdriver around to loosen the rest of the grip glue and pull the grip off. Sand down the handle bar area where the grip will rest and apply grip cement to the area and slip the grip on. If the left hand grip is patterned, align it with the pattern on the right hand grip with the throttle in the fully closed position, immediately push the grip completely onto the end of handlebar using a twisting motion. Do not hesitate when installing the grip or the adhesive may dry before installation is complete. Allow 6 to 8 hours to elapse at 70 degrees F to allow the adhesive to fully cure. If a newer non-glue grip is being installed slip it on with the flats properly oriented to fit with the switch housing halves when they are installed. Install the switch housing halves and lightly tighten the two screws and then orient the clutch perch to the previously made alignment marks and beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 108 - 132 inch lbs using a T27 drive head and then tighten the switch housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs.

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1 Answer

PRESTO Tater Twister Instuctions


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    Take the inner piece of the Tater Twister, the large white circular piece, and place upside down on the table. The two handles should be on the bottom and not the top.

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    Choose your cutting disc and insert it into the inner piece of the Tater Twister. Insert the disc with the bladed side facing downward. There are two tabs on the side that should snap into place on the inner piece of the Tater Twister.


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  • Plug in the main Tater Twister unit, the glass blender-like piece. Insert a potato or other vegetable into the Tater Twister. There are several small studs sticking up in the bottom. Push the vegetable down onto those studs to hold it in place.

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    Push the switch on the front of the Tater Twister to turn it on. Take the inner piece and turn it right side up so you can hold the two handles.

  • 5

    Lower the inner piece into the Tater Twister. Position it so the handles line up with the two large slits in the Tater Twister. As you push down, pieces of the vegetable are pushed through the cutting blade.

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    Continue pushing until the inner piece has reached the bottom. Turn off the Tater Twister by pushing the switch on the front into the off position. Take out the inner piece and dump out the cut vegetable pieces onto a plate.





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    I have a 2008 HD sportster, how do you replace the RH turn signal button? Thanks! Rob


    To replace the right hand turn signal button, you have to take the right hand switch housing apart which includes the throttle. Start by loosening both throttle cables at their adjustments. Loosen them all the way. Take mirrors and other stuff off the handlbar that might be in the way. Remove the two bolts that hold the switch housing halves together and carefully lift the top. Disconnect the throttle and idle cable from the throttle sleeve. Remove the throttle sleeve leaving both halves of the switch housing free.

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    Sorry but I don't have a wiring diagram that I can send you but I may can offer a bit of help.

    Your passing lamps are simply wired into a hot circuit somewhere. A lot of schematics don't show them because they are considered "add ons". They also may have a fuse inline with the "hot" wire. They have only one wire that connects them to the bike with the rest being inside the "light bar" itself. Find the wire coming out of the center of the "light bar" and trace it back to where it hooks up. Sorry but that's the best I can do on this one.

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