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Unable to kick start.
Ignition is on, fuel is turned on, choke on but will not start or even look like starting.
How do you check if there is a spark at the plug and if fuel is gtting to the carbettuer?
Also the bike has not been used for abut two months. I want to drain the fuel from the tank and carberruer. How do I do this?
Thankyou
Regards
Jim
i have a 96 xr250 it was running perfect on tuesday when wednesday came it wouldnt start at all.. the carb is getting gas and is clean and im getting spark ..i can spray starting fluid in the spark plug hole and still nothing ..does anybody have any ideas???? i have a 96 xr250 it was running perfect on tuesday when wednesday came it wouldnt start at all.. the carb is getting gas and is clean and im getting spark ..i can spray starting fluid in the spark plug hole and still nothing ..does anybody have any ideas????
spark at the plug -remove the sparkplug, reconnect the spakplug wire to the plug, let the threaded metal body of the sparkplug touched bare metal of the engine, kickstart the bike;
fuel in carburetor and drain carburetor -there is a drain screw at the bottom portion of the bowl. Unscrew and fuel from the bowl would drain out on the rubber hose attached near to the drain screw;
drain the tank -best would be to remove the tank from the bike after removing the fuel line from the closed petcock/fuel valve. Shake the tank vigorously and invert. Allow stale fuel to flow out from the fuel filler hole. Use a compressor to flush out any remaining sand, dirt or rust flakes.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Appreciate the direct "Ask Me".
To your concern:
spark at the plug -remove the sparkplug, reconnect the spakplug wire to the plug, let the threaded metal body of the sparkplug touched bare metal of the engine, kickstart the bike; fuel in carburetor and drain carburetor -there is a drain screw at the bottom portion of the bowl. Unscrew and fuel from the bowl would drain out on the rubber hose attached near to the drain screw; drain the tank -best would be to remove the tank from the bike after removing the fuel line from the closed petcock/fuel valve. Shake the tank vigorously and invert. Allow stale fuel to flow out from the fuel filler hole. Use a compressor to flush out any remaining sand, dirt or rust flakes.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.
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First- turn on the gas. wait for it to get to the carb. Next switch on- close the choke, give 1/4 throttle, Kick it - if it's a no start after about 4 kicks - open the choke and give 1/2 throttle and close the gas.(your flooded)- 4 more kicks and check the spark plug for wet fuel or dry. If dry- dip the business of the plug in fuel and try again. Still no start- replace the plug.
If all that fails- you can disconnect the ignition switch and that will separate the wiring from the ignition- be careful here because you can not shut it off with the switch it can be killed with the choke or pull off the ignition wire to the spark plug.
Still no start, do a compression test as it needs at least 80# to fire.
My stock '90 DR650RS needs to be started with a set procedure, generally NO THROTTLE when kicking over. I had same issue as you but reset air screw at exactly one and a half turns out and idle (warm) at 1200 revs.
Cold start: Hold de-comp on and kick over with 1/4 throttle, release throttle, pull choke and kick over once with de-comp still on. Then, turn ignition on, NO throttle, no choke, apply de-comp and kick over...let idle for about 10 seconds before grabbing throttle.
When hot: just kick over with hand well clear of throttle. (I use the handlebar cross brace for support)
This took me ages to work out but has been foolproof ever since, even after a spill in the dirt or a sudden stall in traffic.
I use premium Un-leaded fuel and stock NGK plugs with stock Mikuni carb and jets. I use two different exhausts (stock twin muffler and an alloy CZR single pot) and starting is identical procedure for both. (I only change the jets with exhausts)
first drain the carby, then set your air mixture screw 2 turns out, from the fully turned in position. The starting proceedure is as follows, when the engine is COLD, turn on fuel, pull on the choke fully, and kick the engine over. DO NOT use any throttle, when the engine is cold, and the choke is on. Remember Choke on, NO throttle. When warm, no choke, and a little throttle when kicking.
Does it have spark?
Change the plug and do this: Ignition Coil Test by SmallEng.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4 You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You do not have to bend up the electrode.
Has spark: Was the old plug wet (flooded)? No - put a teaspoon of mix in carburetor throat, Does it try to start? Yes - fuel delivery problem: Clean the muffler and spark arrestor screen. Check the fuel filter on the free end of a hose in fuel tank (manufacturer recommends an annual replacement). Check all fuel delivery lines especially at fittings and bends for cracks and holes. It can also be an air leak, inspect for a loose or defective carburetor manifold or loose carburetor. If those are good then the likely cause is internal parts of the carburetor are dirty or have failed. Most hard starting problems are caused by flooding. Please check the procedure in your manual. It is probably similar to this: Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4)
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) – Do not pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
If you need more help please reply below. I hope this was helpful. Lou
Check for spark Ignition Coil Test Smalleng.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4 You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You don’t have to bend up the electrode.
If spark present put a small amount of mix in the carburetor. Does it at least try to start? If yes you most likely have a fuel delivery problem. Inspect for splits and holes in fuel lines especially at fittings and bends. If no any number of problems. Try your friendly neighborhood chainsaw shop.
Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls)
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) - Don’t pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Check for spark Ignition Coil Test Smalleng.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4 You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You don’t have to bend up the electrode.
If spark present put a small amount of mix in the carburetor. Does it at least try to start? If yes you most likely have a fuel delivery problem. If no any number of problems. Try your friendly neighborhood chainsaw shop.
Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls)
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) - Don’t pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
If your bike starts even for 5 seconds you should investigate your fuel delivery system.Check fuel pump,filter,try spray carb cleaners like Gum Out.Most importantly make sure your choke is working.You got your ignition (spark) it is most likely fuel related.Good Luck.
Could be low compression due to head gasket leak, worn piston rings. Or bad spark due to dirty plug, wrong gap, plug breaking down, lead or cap breaking down, ignition fault. Choked air filter, fuel filter. Try these in easiest order I.E. remove air filter and see if it starts easier, do a compression test, cahnge plug, lead cap. Check the fuel filter. I am sure it's a simple solution.(high milage engines tend to be difficult to start so take this into account)
i have a 96 xr250 it was running perfect on tuesday when wednesday came it wouldnt start at all.. the carb is getting gas and is clean and im getting spark ..i can spray starting fluid in the spark plug hole and still nothing ..does anybody have any ideas????
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Appreciate the direct "Ask Me".
To your concern:
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.spark at the plug -remove the sparkplug, reconnect the spakplug wire to the plug, let the threaded metal body of the sparkplug touched bare metal of the engine, kickstart the bike;
fuel in carburetor and drain carburetor -there is a drain screw at the bottom portion of the bowl. Unscrew and fuel from the bowl would drain out on the rubber hose attached near to the drain screw;
drain the tank -best would be to remove the tank from the bike after removing the fuel line from the closed petcock/fuel valve. Shake the tank vigorously and invert. Allow stale fuel to flow out from the fuel filler hole. Use a compressor to flush out any remaining sand, dirt or rust flakes.
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