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I think its very similar to my 89 NC30, there should be some rubber 'bungs' with wires on them on the back of your clocks that you can pull out and there will be some very small bulbs inside the bungs when viewed from the front.
NOTE - you may have to take out a couple screws to access the back of the clocks, but it shouldn't be anything major
ok the clocks shuld be attached to the top yolk by 2 bolts remove these and wires disconected speedo / tacho cables removed it shuld come off the bike there will be a metal framework inside the clocks this frame attaches by those 2 bolts to the top yolk and hold the clocks in position after removeing the clock back covers you should see 2 bolts or pins holding the clock to the frame once removed u have a clock in your hands bear in mind im not farmiliar with that exact bike hope this helped
The cable may be broken inside.
First I would remove the speedo clock and undo the cable that goes into the back, unscrew the nut anti clockwise and pull out the cable, it may have snapped at this end or at the other end where it goes to the front wheel. if its not snapped push the bike forward and note if the shaft is spinning. if it is not then it is broken. Trace the cable down to the front wheel and there will be a similar fixing going into the hub of the wheel, unscrew this and check that the shaft in the cable is broken or spins or not.
I think you will find that the cable is broken at either of the ends.
Hope this helps.
Sound a lot like a broken speedometer cable, a fairly common problem.
Take the cable housing off the wheel, and at its other end, and check to see if either end has broken off. Many speedo cables have the ends squished into a square shape, and the shoulders of that squareness are what drives the cable at the wheel end, and drives the speedo mechanism at the other end. Check to see if that squareness has been rubbed round, rather than square.
If this has happened, replacing the cable will fix you up, but the problem will happen again, soon. If it is broken or worn, either the cable is not turning easily in the housing, or the speedo mechanism is too stiff to turn.
If the speedo end is broken, the mechanism is the problem. If the wheel end is broken it can be either cause.
if either pointer or ( needle ) is damaged a new clock will be needed, allso check condition of both drive cables that go to your clocks remove with plyers or fingers if poss, then trace back to engine and front wheel, allso disconnect ,turn inner cable with your fingers the other end will turn if good. the end of the cable should be square ,and not rounded off ,allso oil cable from the top if stiff.
To change the bulb you need to remove the four star screws holding the plastic covers either side of the clocks (One each side at the top of the screen and one each side straight down into the nose fairing). Next remove the two 10mm bolts holding the clocks. Raise the clocks a few inches until you can unscrew the speedo cable and then move the clocks to one side. Pull back the rubber boot on the headlight and feel for a spring loaded catch. the bulb and holder should now come out with a little bit of fiddling and jiggling.
I don't know what type of fairing you've got, so I can't address that issue - but once you get it out of the way, you first need to unscrew the tach and speedo cables from the backs of the units. If your headlight is still installed in the stock headlamp shell, remove it by unscrewing the three screws (one @12o-clock, and two others each at 4 o-clock and 8 o-clock). Now take out the two bolts on either side of the headlight shell which attach it to the chrome fork ears and push the shell down, out of the way.
There are two nuts on the bottom of the instrument cluster bracket, just to either side of the ignition switch, that attach it to the upper triple clamp. With these nuts removed, carefully unplug the large white plastic connector at the base of the ignition switch. Follow the wires that go from the instrument cluster and idiot-light assembly down into the headlight shell and unplug them. Now have a beer, you're done.
have you read the manual? If your bike has a large fairing/windshield then you may need to remove it to get at the clocks to unscrew the speedo cable. http://www.ukcbxclub.com/
Rate me if this helps you.
The speedo drive sender is very common failure on these bikes following any maintenance involving the front wheel removal (like tire replacement) The speed sensor is located on front axle on the right side of the wheel The magnetic rotor gets broken because the drive detent is not properly engaged duing re-assembly. Fortunately the replacement is relatively inexpensive and reasonably easy to replace if you are careful to engage the drive properly when re-installing wheel. Insert the drive into the wheel before bringing wheel up to forks and inserting axle.