Question about 2001 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat Boy
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi Anonymous, seat removal can range from the simple and obvious to the complex and baffling for the novice new Harley Davidson owner. Seems like the more expensive the bike is the harder it is to remove the seat. So let's start with the most expensive. 99% of all Harley seats have a male tounge in the front that slides into a female reciever that is either bolted or welded to the frame just behind the fuel tank. For this reason when ever you are removing a seat you must always slide it backwards 3-5 inches. Next they may may have a bolt on each side usually under a flap on the seat. Then there is the seat strap that is secured on both sides, only one side needs to be removed. A single phillips head bolt can secure it to the rear fender or it may have a bracket with two studs secured by nuts or knobs to fasten the rear portion of the seat. On newer model short seats there may be a "T" stud that locks in the rear portion of the seat just a few inches in front of the rear seat bolt, you have to push forward and lift up after you remove the bolt. If you have a pillion pad or passenger seat that snugs up against the front seat there can be a bolt securing the two to the rear fender, you have to get your hand in between the two seats and force seperation of seat material to see and gain acess to the bolt. Finally there is the rear seat bolt in the back that is the caboose of seat fasteners, usually a large chrome bracket, that screws into the rear fender. Care must be exercised in covering this shinny bauble with your hand during the sliding back procedure so as to NOT scratch the tour pak. So when all the hidden and mysterious fasteners have been removed, it's lift up in the rear, slide backwards a few inches and bingo you have mastered the impossible. Good luck.
Posted on May 25, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Drain the fuel either by siphening or removing the cross over tube at the front of the tank and letting it drain that way or just block off those cross over lines and leave the fule in the tank for removal.
0) remove seat
1) drain fuel
2) undo cross over line (bottom front of gas tank.
3) shut off pet **** and remove fuel line from pet ****.
4)there should only be 2 bolts holding the tank on, one at the top front of the tank and one at the back of the tank.
All in all a pretty easy (but possibloy messy) job.
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
May I suggest a trip to your local library. Cycle repair books should be in 646 stacks of reference.
Otherwise you can Google for 2003 Clymer Service manuals on the internet.
I think Clymer had electrical diagrams in their books. I doubt that any except the HD service book would have anything about the physical location of the harness, but the pictures in the other books would help you.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
If you ask this question YOU should not be doing it! but your *** on the seat not mine.
Remove ...........front wheel, front fender,top fork cap and loosen lower triple clamp bolts under head light cover, forks are now out!
Remove 6mm bolt at the bottom of the fork leg and drain oil,remove dust seal and wire clip, now remove the upper fork nut (the spring will jump out at you).Pull the leg and tube away from each other, the old seal will stay on the tube..clean and reassemble driving NEW seal down into place with wire clip.....refill with oil
Posted on May 23, 2010
If you try to ride the bike or rev the engine up while it's cold, this is normal. Most engines will do this because the mixture is lean for a cold engine. When you start the engine, allow the engine to warm until it goes into the slower idle speed.
Posted on Nov 10, 2010
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